”April Fools’ 😀.” In an unprecedented collaboration, Vertical-Life, the IFSC, and the UIAA have announced a groundbreaking update to the climbing grading scale, in order to equalize soft and sandbagged areas in the VL Ranking Game. To ease the transition, this new system mirrors the French scale but introduces "dialects" starting at 4a. Climbers will now see grades like 7c(b) for Belgian, 7b+(y) for Yosemite, 8a+(g) for Greek, and 8a(s) for the Standard dialect. Above 9b, all routes universally adopt the 9b(s) grade. Like real dialects, these are subject to change, some might merge or new ones appear.

For those chasing points in the VL ranking game, here's the new currency for 2025: send an 8a(s), climb a 7c(b), sketch up a 7b+(y), or snag an 8a+(g) to earn a 1000 points! (c) John Price - Lorenzo "Lez" Doria doing Aegialis (7c). This route will get 7c(g) on the new scale.

UIAA spokesman Willy Welzenbach shared his enthusiasm: "It was high time we addressed the chaotic reality of our grading system. The old 'one-size-fits-all' French scale simply wasn't cutting it. It was either revamp the translation tables or give each climbing culture its own voice."

Francis Veber from Belgium added, "The climbing seasons in Freyr used to see a surge of overinflated egos returning from Ulassai and Kalymnos. Climbers were riding high until they hit the local routes and their scores plummeted. With the new system, we expect fewer mood swings and more realistic self-assessment."

Over the next few weeks, each area will choose its "dialect," allowing for a smooth transition of existing rankings to this innovative system. Preliminary simulations confirm what we've always known: Adam Ondra remains the greatest, regardless of the dialect! Stay tuned to cast your vote on which grading "dialect" your area / country should adopt. Let's make climbing grades fair (and a bit more complicated) again!

Colin Duffy, who was #4 in the Paris Olympics, has done Pegasus (8C) in Joe's Valley (UT). The 21-year-old did his first 8C, out of four, only four months ago.

Can you tell us more about the trip and the ascent of Pegasus?
It was a nice short trip, Pegasus was my main goal but I mostly wanted to check out some of the classics since it was my first time in Joe’s Valley. I tried Pegasus on the 1st day of my trip. Pegasus is the low start to Pagan Poetry Low (8B) which is the low start to Pagan Poetry (8A). I flashed Pagan Poetry and did the intro sequence of Pegasus on my first try, so after figuring out the crux of Pagan Low I started giving attempts from the start. After about 4-5 tries I found myself at the top.

The next day I worked the moves on Sound of Violence (8C), which is the left exit of Pegasus, but it was too warm to give send goes. On my last day I returned and after reworking the moves I sent first try from the bottom.

What are your comp plans in 2025?
I plan on doing all of the bouldering world cups, but I will wait to compete in lead until Innsbruck. I’ll also compete at the World Championships in both boulder and lead.

Matteo Gambero, who last autumn did his seventh 9a, has repeated Davide Carena’s Creuza de ma (8c+) in Finale.

Can you tell us more about your latest ascent?
I love climbing always motivated on the projects I try. Sometimes they are beautiful and in beautiful places, sometimes less so, but it is the process of improvement and the inner journey that can sometimes prevail over the objective beauty of the route. This route was bolted by friends in a particular place. It is a former quarry and the rock is often dusty, but even if it rains you can climb. furthermore this route is very modern and physical with some precarious kneebars. I really enjoy trying it when the weather was bad and it was a great workout. Now the good season begins and in addition to bolting new lines I will dedicate myself to even more ambitious projects!

How does a normal climbing week look like and what is the focus pushing for the more ambitious projects at age 50?
I don't have a particular routine but I try to prepare myself as best as possible by trying the projects I choose and training my shortcomings specifically. I always look for new projects both by bolting new lines and by trying routes that I've already climbed but that fascinate me. I live climbing as always and if I'm in good health I don't feel the difference and the weight of age. It's certainly very different now than at 30 but the present is what counts.

Johannes Hofherr, an active IFSC competition climber from Austria, has completed Sprengstoff (9a) in Lorüns. Jacopo Larcher did the FA of it in 2020 some 20 years after it was bolted by Beat Kammerlander. ”5th ascent, best route I know, my longest journey to a send ever - what a mental battle.” (c) Nemuel Fuerle

Can you tell us more about the journey and how it was mentally?
I first tried this route in 2020 when it was still a project. Balancing training for competitions and outdoor climbing made it an on-and-off journey. Over the years, I had phases of intense effort followed by long breaks. The crag is great for winter climbing, but as soon as spring arrives, it gets too warm.

In November 2023, I came close but ran out of time due to a training camp and my annual two-week break. After that, a rainy winter and subpar form kept me from making real progress—until this March. Suddenly, I felt good on the route again and committed to trying twice a week, as much as my comp training and the sharp holds allowed.

I’ve known for a while that I could do it, but that didn’t make it easier. The history behind it, with Beat Kammerlander attempting it before 2000, added weight to the challenge. The pressure of sending such a meaningful route in my home region made every attempt nerve-wracking.

This March was the first time I believed I could climb even harder routes. But oddly, knowing I should succeed made it mentally tougher. Today’s send wasn’t perfect—my head was flooded with thoughts—but that’s fitting. This route has been a journey of ups and downs, patience, and persistence. And in the end, never giving up made all the difference.

What are your 2025 plans?
My plans for 2025 are to do as well as I can at the first national comp and selections at the end of May to then try to be at a few lead world cups. Then I am gonna be in Rocklands all of August for my first time ever. Maybe trying one or two other 9a's if I get some timeslots in my training weeks but nothing oddly specific. That's pretty much the plans I got so far.

Dan Mirsky, who did his first, out of five 9a’s, at age 35, has done Z-Nation (9a) in Wicked Cave. ”Not necessarily the straightest line to the the top of the cave but I will say it was more fun than I thought it would be and I was in need of a side proj. Once I found my way on the reverse Curu boulder it all felt pretty manageable. From there it was a few near misses and one terrible warm up go today. Psyched to get the ball rolling in 2025. Gonna give this one a personal grade of 8c+/9A; harder than The Club, easier than Phat Club. Used my knees and my other wicked cave savvy and still almost fell at the top of the BGC roof for what might be the last time... Thanks to the homies for the encouragement.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
This was kind of a funny one for me. On the one hand, I have spent a significant amount of time on all of the routes that make up the Znation link up so in that regard the process was quite long!! On the other hand I only really tried the link up itself a handful of random days this winter. I was intimidated by the proposed difficulty of the boulder problem going from Zulu to The Crew and honestly never tried it before. Once I did, I fairly quickly found a method that suited me and did the whole boulder on my first or second session.

I am certainly pleased to have sent but it definitely didn't feel as challenging as other routes I have done at this level because I knew I could do it all from my previous experience on the individual routes. Znation felt like it was a physical challenge, well right up until I actually thought I was going to send, then of course I let it get in my head just a little bit... Still, I found it much easier to remain confident and I sent quicker than other routes I have done at this grade. I think it really highlights how much the mental component contributes to the difficulty of climbing hard routes.

Jules Marchaland, with four 9a+’ under his belt, has on his second go sent Beyond (9a+) in Pic St Loup. ”Wtf. Best climbing moment of my life. Everything went perfectly. Last 10 meters completely wet was a big mental battle. Really soft for 9a+ . Maybe 9a/+ Merci Lucien [Martinez, who took the picture]!!

Seb Bouin made the FA and called it hard 9a and later a hold broke and repeaters have suggested an upgrade.

Tell us more about that epic second go ascent?
Lucien told me I should try to flash but it is too hard. I did not spend too much time, just found quick beta climbing without any doubt.

When I gave my try, everything was just perfect and I climbed exactely as I hoped to climb. It was too good. I climbed the first part fast and super well and the same for the second boulder. Then it was the last ten meters 7c but the tufas were super wet. It was so hard mentally as both my feet and hands were super wet creating a big fight. Best climbing moment of my life.

Silvio Reffo, with 19 routes 9a or 9a+ under his belt, has repeated Tre Mou Polacche (9a) in Arco. Stefano Ghisolfi and Gio Placci shared the FA last November.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It had been a few years since I last climbed at the Eremo di San Paolo, but this new route bolted by Gabriele Moroni gave me a great reason to return. Tre Mou Polacche is a very different route compared to the others in the same sector. It’s less overhanging but features slippery holds that require constant body positioning.

The route starts with a tough but fairly straightforward boulder problem, followed by an upper section that demands finger strength endurance. It took me several attempts to find the right sequences and the proper positioning for my body dimensions. Balancing family, work, and the terrible weather over the past few months made managing this project quite challenging. In my last few sessions, I kept falling on the final moves, which was really frustrating. Fortunately, the good send finally came, and now I can go wear out my skin on other vertical projects.

What projects are you thinking about?
I have a project near home that I still need to send, and I think it could be around 9b. I also still have a few unfinished routes at the Eremo, like Beginning (9a+).

Christian Leitner, who four weeks ago sent his fourth 9a, has done the FA of Der rote Baron (9a+) in Zigeunerloch. (c) Mario Leitner

Last year the 16-year-old Austrian was 2 - 1 - 1 - 1 in the Lead European Cup/Championship he participated in.

Can you tell us more about the process behind the FA?
The route starts on Public enemy (8c) until reaching a good rest before the hard part begins. Every move requires a lot of body tension, with a lot of moves on underclings. Just before linking into Zigeunerbaron (8b), nearly at the end of the hard part, the absolute crux is waiting there. The true difficulty lies in doing the crux after all the demanding climbing that comes before it. At this point, you’re already deep into the route, and putting everything together requires every last bit of power. After the crux, the rest of the climb is pure enjoyment, with no more major difficulties standing in the way. The rock face is actually my homecrag, so I have tried the route on and off about three to four years before truly committing to it as a project. The dream of sending it has always been there.

In the end I have approximately projected it serious for about one year—Just about from the point on where I first found a potential solution for the crux. From that moment, I tried it regularly, even through the winter. To stay familiar with the moves I kept at it despite the bad conditions. Soon, I was able to climb all the way to the crux but I fell there every time. Not once I have had an attempt where I got super close to actually sending it. On the day of the send, we originally went to the crag because my brother Julian (14) wanted to send his second 8c, Public Enemy, which he eventually did. Afterwards I wanted to try my project for fun and I didn’t really have any expectations But somehow, everything went just perfect. I fought my way through the crux and could barely reach the next rest. Sometimes, everything just falls into place, and the climb flows like magic.

What are your 2025 comp plans, any senior World Cups?
For the comps I think I will mostly focus on international lead comps. This year unfortunately only youth cups, because IFSC changed the rules. Next year I am allowed to climb with adults.

William Bosi, who last month sent Excalibur (9b+), has done the FA of El Dorado Sit (8C) in Sintra. In total, the 26-year-old has done 30 boulders 8C and beyond including four 9A’s, making his ticklist a contendor for being the #1 in the world. (c) Teresa Coimbra

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
El Dorado is another incredible Sintra line, I was completely blown away by when I was shown it. It has an obvious stand start which was one of the oldest projects in the area.

The stand is a very hard two move crimp bloc which needs a lot of foot tension. It’s hard to say on the grade but I guessed around 8A+. Then the sit adds just 4 moves but you cover a lot of ground and makes the line full complete and really rewarding!

Each sit move is hard but not desperate. However it climbs quite slowly and every move feels like it almost adds a grade to the stand. As by the time you get there you feel like you are lacking the maximum crimp strength or body tension needed to stick the crux move.

What is coming up next?
I’m planning to head to Switzerland soon and check out some futuristic projects. Currently I’ve been working on some long term projects close to Sheffield, one still feels very far away but I had a breakthrough session on the other one yesterday and I’m hopeful it’s not too far away now.

Bruce Zou, who last week did his first 8C, has completed The Game (8C) in Boulder Canyon, and both of them barefoot. In total, it took the 37-year-old 80+ session to repeat the Daniel Woods classical testpiece from 2010. (c) Xinyang Zhou

Can you tell us more about the process taking it down?
The Game took me 4 years of serious work. It caught my eye in 2018 but I couldn’t do any of the hard moves until 2020. I figured out that shoes were blocking my progress. End of 2020, I tried barefoot and did two crux moves in one session. I believe this is my way. However barefoot making the rest of moves way harder…

I start serious in Jan 2021 and made big progress till June 2021. I almost did it but failed at the end on the jug… thing just got into my mind and I was mentally not good.

I realize it’s because my toes were not strong enough to handle the “easier” move which is the sacrifice. Also my fingers are not strong enough to hold the tiny crimp for longer than 10 seconds.

I had to move to WA for my job June 2021, and it became extremely difficult for me to come back. Every night I envision myself sending it. All these memories by recalling the details of the holds, how I grabbed them… I still couldn’t do it for the next 2 seasons… but at the same time I train my fingers and toes every day and climb barefoot outdoors on purpose.

This season it only took me one day to send and I got all the moves back in less than 2hours. Everything feels like yesterday since I had envisioned for over 800+ time in 4 years. It was my longest battle and the most satisfied thing ever in my life.