Marci Bombardi ticks three 9a’s

Marcello Bombardi, with a dozen 9a’s and harder under his belt, has during the last month done Prima Classe (9a), Vivi si muore (9a+) and Trainspotting (9a+), all in Val Tanaro. The 31-year-old Italian climber has been a fixture on the IFSC circuit since 2007, securing a standout victory at the 2017 World Cup in Chamonix. (c) Nicolò Vece

Can you tell us more about these three 9a ascents?
I’ve been at La stazione last year when temperatures were already quite high to try something hard. I started trying Prima classe but after a few days I postponed the project. Few weeks ago the right season for that crag was reopening and I was psyched to go. The climb is the type I really like: steep, physical, on nice and natural (not chipped) crimps. I managed to send Prima classe the first day of this year and immediately tried the other two routes: Vivi si Muore and Trainspotting. Vivi si muore is maybe the one I liked the most. Three boulder problems, each one of them ending with a dynamic move to a jug. Feeling strong and excited on those holds, I managed to climb both of them in a few days.

What are your competition plans in 2025?
About comps, I still don’t know. We have the first national comps which are selective for the national team taking part at the other World Cups of this year.

Why are these your first hard routes in two years?
Ahah good question! Mainly because I am focused on training for comps, which is my work, during most of the year and I am not really good on climbing outside at the same time. Also because I like other type of climbing as well. End of 2023 I mostly bouldered, then started the multipitch and trad game, 2024 I also injured my shoulder which made me loose a lot of time in good shape.

What is your your work?
I am a professional climber thanks to the support of the military sport group for which the objectives are comps.