Eliot Stephens FA’s The Malleus Maleficarum (8C)

Eliot Stephens, with five 8C’s under his belt, has done the first ascent of The Malleus Maleficarum (8C) in Witches Cave. ”Involved climbing through a steep double roof. Finicky in every way. Good to send this one packing.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Long process. One of the rare projects where the difficulty isn’t in the moves and climbing the boulder, but aligning everything else to do it. 80% Conditions, 10% physical shape, 5% mental shape and 5% will to just show up and try it.

It just took 2.5 years to have those things aligned, and then luckily, in the end it felt good. Total probably 10 sessions or more, spread over 2022-2025. A few each year, and 3 this year. Conditions this year in Wales have been perfect, and it was almost as good as it could possibly on the day I did it.

How come is it so rare to find good conditions?

So the boulder is in a tidal cave, so twice a day water comes up at the base of it. You want a low tide to be able to access and climb on the boulder, but also a neap (which is low) tide, so that the tide hasn’t come up the beach as far. Once the landing of the boulder gets wet, the roof it’s on is usually much more wet, and holds the humidity for a long time. Not once have I ever seen every single hold on this climb dry. And the 2 crux holds is are so frictionless that it becomes impossible to continue if they’re damp or wet.

If there is sea mist, it’s wet. Temperature spike? Wet. Onshore wind? Wet. Too many days of rain? Wet. Dry for weeks but super high humidity? Still wet.

Are you in the best shape of your life having done three of your total six 8C’s in the last five months?
I was in good shape after doing Dreamtime in December, and weather has allowed me to wrap up a few long term things locally. Not in the best shape I’ve ever been in, but probably smarter and more in tune with rock at the moment than perhaps I ever have been.