Alex Ventajas, with 17 routes 9a or 9a+ under his belt, has repeated Stefano Ghisolfi’s Beginning (9a+) in Arco. ”Another incredible route unlocked! I think one of most logical line in the sector. Amazing climb shared with great friends 💪🏻”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
This line caught my attention from the very first time I visited the Eremo di San Paolo. Even though it’s the combination of two different routes, it stands out as one of the most logical and aesthetic lines in the sector. Maybe it was exactly its beauty that kept me motivated, even when it felt out of reach.

The line links the most demanding sections of two of the classic routes in the sector: “St. Anger” and “Zauberfee” (both graded 8c+/9a), which I had climbed in 2024 and 2022 respectively. The connection is made through a new central sequence that’s extremely physical and intense, requiring a lot of body tension. “Beginning” it’s a complete and complex route: extremely varied, but at the same time with a constant intensity all the way up to the anchor, which demands both solid endurance and very precise management of your climbing. The first part is rather aggressive, followed by a section that’s both physical and technical, a difficult rest, a final boulder problem followed by an endurance run on bad open-handed holds.

I started trying the route in the winter of 2024 together with two close friends, Luca Bertacco and Alessandro Larcher. It was a super motivating team experience! We pushed each other during those cold December days, between laughs, slices of pizza, and worn-out skin. Unfortunately, the low temperatures made it impossible to give 100%; even during the best tries, our fingers were freezing so much that we couldn’t even feel the holds. Up until December 31st, I Have never even managed to reach the rest point before the final crux, so I decided, with a bit of regret, to put the project on hold for a while.

As April started, I felt like “Beginning” was calling me back, and I knew it was time to try it again. After a first go, which was a bit of a struggle as I had to rediscover the right footwork on the first quickdraws, I quickly found a good rhythm, and, in just a few more tries I finally reached that long-awaited final rest! Right away I felt comfortable with the moves and the holds, and my motivation shot through the roof! I came back for three consecutive days, and I was so motivated I barely felt the fatigue. On the third go of the third day, I finally stuck the last boulder problem after the final rest. I felt full of energy so I could climb the last section completely focused and precise. Clipping the anchor was an unexplainable great feeling! I can honestly say I’m really happy I have never fallen on the final endurance section! What I value the most from this whole journey is the mindset I had managing the progression on the project and the moments I shared with the friends who were part of it, from the first attempts to the victory photo! (c) Crimp-Films

Sam Weir, who did three 8C+’ last year, has repeated Daniel Woods’ La force tranquille (8C) in Magic Wood. ”One off the life list. Amazing boulder and moves.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried the boulder a lot in 2020 and fell on the jump. Tried again the year after and fell before, on and after the jump. After a few years away I came back and it went in a few tries. I’m really pleased because what used to be a limit project with all the doubt and seriousness involved, where every single detail mattered , became a fun session this time around. I could not get the smile off my face the whole session from astonishment. It really puts my current project’s difficulty for me into perspective. Really happy with this one as it’s one off my life list. Couple more to go!

What are your current projects?
Projects include : the board climbs Clément and Nina and I set (had to include this because they are important to me 🤣) and I’m trying an old Tony Lamiche project here in Chamonix for two years now and Poison the Well (8C+). Fell on the last move 3 weeks ago and then summer rolled in 😢. So lots to do :)

Alex Megos has done the first ascent of Le Grand Saccage (9a+/b) in Buoux, which was bolted by Adrien Boulon. ”This route is the last one I bolted one year ago, the last line left in the cave. The main bolters of the cave and proper locals climbers do not want any other line to respect the integrity of the place. There's still potential to open hard lines, still some space in some sectors, but I hope and wish, next bolters will respect the ethic of this historical place, which actually is not always the case.” (c) Jan Virt

Back in the ‘80s, Buoux was at the epicenter of the sport climbing revolution. With bold bolting, technical limestone, and visionary lines like Chouca and Le Minimum, it helped define what sport climbing would become.

Fast forward to 2025, and Buoux is still making headlines. The long-standing project Le Bombe has become the crag’s modern centerpiece, attracting top climbers chasing one of France’s last legendary open lines. Old-school in style but forever relevant, Buoux continues to test skill, vision, and nerve.

Can you tell us more about your FA?
After coming to Buoux in February with my good friend Felix I checked out the project at the end of our trip and got psyched! So I had to return. The opportunity presented itself to return with Oriol and Jan Virt to try the route again and also film a YouTube video about it. In total I tried 3 days on the first trip and climbed it on the 3rd day of the second trip. So 6 days in total. It has a bunch of kneebars, that's why I was very unsure about the grade. You know I'm not the best when it comes to kneebars so I'm sure other people will find better kneebars. That's why it could range from 9a+ to 9b. We'll see what other people think. It's an incredible route and the area has so much to offer! I hope through that route people will have Buoux back on the map again.

Chris Frick, who three years ago did his fifth 8c, has completed Gorilas en la niebla (8b+) in Oliana. ”Amazing 55m of physical climbing meandering through the central wall up to the ideal finish on a no-hands at the top of the cliff. Great to send something at this level after 13 months of investment in improving climbing skills (and mostly indoors throughout 2024 and beginning of 2025 due to bad conditions on my projects at home). It’s far from over even at age of 57! An excellent physical shape is still possible :) Psyched to see what’s coming next! Thanks for best support Tina and Loulou!” (c) Augustine Fort

What can you tell us about your journey?
Although in climbing I value the process and in a project the small steps forward the most, it is always nice to clip a chain from time to time. As an intermediate stop, so to speak. Quasi to check how far the process has progressed and what the result might look like. The last send was 13 months ago and in that time I was nothing more than searching for a dry project. Due to the remarkably bad weather in 2024/2025, I was slowed down several times by the constant wetness. This mainly has to do with the fact that I'm not the fastest when it comes to sending a project at the personal limit. Before I'm even ready for a send, an otherwise dry route is already wet again. So I realized that I could change something in my climbing once again. I wanted to be able to climb routes at the limit a little faster and not be solely dependent on good conditions. I mean, I've been climbing for 43 years and to make it interesting and enjoyable, it always makes sense to question yourself and work on your own skills. That's how I stay motivated. Climbing has never been boring for me. I would also like to continue my lifetime project that I’ve bolted nearby home, which requires specific strength and technique. So I tackled one of my biggest weaknesses: physically hard lock-offs on small ledges on a forty-degree spray wall.

Of course, it is interesting to see for yourself whether the loss of power is really so dramatic in your mid-fifties (I reckon easier for males as females have also to deal with menopause). I can tell you that training like this is tough and I didn't see a single improvement on the spray wall for six months. Although frustrating, I intuitively carried on anyway. And all of a sudden my power went through the roof. I learned so much. Above all, to still trust my body but also my mind. I could write a lot about this topic and climbing in old age, but that would take up too much space here. However, I very much hope to motivate some of you to realize that there is no reason to let your head hang down in old age. We old(er) people can do so much more than we think. And according to modern scientific research, high intensity loads help to keep cells young (keyword telomeres) :) So let’s go!

How many FA’s have you done? And how much work did you put into rebolting Oliana?
I cannot give you the exact number as I’m not bookkeeping my FA’s. But somewhere in-between 400 to 500, mainly in Switzerland, but also in some other countries (e.g. Flatanger/Norway). My first FA I have put up in my first year of climbing (1982). Since then contributing to the community was always part of my climbing philosophy, that is if you take from you have to give something back. So I’ve rebolted even more. With Oliana I have a special connection as I was helping to rebuild after the wildfire in 2022. It was worth it to spend my holidays. The crag is so good and the climbing community there is so nice and fanatic. This is why I decided to come back for Oliana this spring after a break of few years. By the way, I have worked ’Gorilas…’ a bit already five years ago and haven’t had a chance in its bouldery crux. So this was a good test of my shape and I can say I’m better the older I get. Like an old wine, ha ha.

Lorenzo Bogliacino, with three 9a+’ under his belt, has done the FA of Vivi si muore (9a+) in La Stazione. ”9a/+. A pleasure and a gift to bolt and free such an all-natural line. Two boulders and then final endurance on the exit of ‘Paranoid Android’. I dream about the right exit.” (c) Alessandro Palma

Julia Fiser, who was #9 in the Innsbruck World Cup 2024, has done Tunnelblick (8c+) in Achleiten. ”🥹 Almost 5 years after my first try. So many things happened in between. Proud that I never gave up. Yesterday, everything just aligned and it felt effortless, leaving me wondering how it took me so long. But also, I wouldn't want it any other way. What a beautiful journey 🩷” (c) Tobias Lanzanasto

Can you tell us more about your beautiful journey?
Last autumn, I set myself the goal of finishing two old projects of mine which I both first tried in 2020: Wassermusik at Schleier Wasserfall and Tunnelblick in Achleiten. I was quite lucky on Wassermusik, because it tends to be wet all the time, but in November all the holds were more or less dry and I managed to finish it. I had a session or 2 on Tunnelblick before training started again in December. The moves felt good and especially the crux felt better than ever before. But I was clearly lacking the endurance to arrive at the crux without too much pump to actually be able to hold these small crimps. Last week I just finished an intense endurance training block and I knew soon it’s gonna be too warm in Achleiten, so I decided to have one more day on it before the first Lead Worldcups in Asia.

When I pulled off the ground last Tuesday, I felt a bit shaky in the first slabby part. I wasn't surprised about that, this was supposed to be my warmup try. But when the "real" climbing began, I've never felt more calm. My head was clear, no "what if's", just pure focus on the next move. The flow state that we all seek and admire. In the back of my mind, after I passed the first crux, I somehow already knew that I'll do it this time. Yet I stayed calm and let my body do the work. When I did the last crux, which threw me off so many times, without any problems this time, I wondered how it took me so long. Now I realise that it only felt so easy because it took me so long. I can now appreciate every single moment I spent on the route in the last 5 years. I understand that the journey that lead me to climb Tunnelblick truly turned me into a better climber. Not just physically, but mostly mentally.

I want to thank every person that spent time with me on the route and in Achleiten in general. Every single one of you shaped me in some way or another. Grateful for this community <3

IFSC reports that the 2028 Los Angeles Olympics will feature separate events for Lead, Boulder, and Speed with a total athlete quota of 38 across both men and women. This marks a shift from the Tokyo 2020 format, where all three disciplines were combined into a single event. At Paris 2024, Lead and Boulder were contested together, while Speed had its own standalone event.

The IFSC President Marco Scolaris comments, "From the very beginning of our Olympic journey we have always had the target of three sets of medals for our athletes. Each of our disciplines has its own unique strengths, and now everyone will see these at LA28. “I’m happy to be at this point in our history thanks to a fantastic collaborative effort from so many people. The Climbing community; from the athletes to the spectators to the staff all working together. I’m personally grateful to the IOC and LA28, working together in these last months was a great human and sport experience. LA28 will be an ever-bigger celebration for Climbing."

Lara Trinkl, who the last month sent four 8A’s and placed #6 in the Austria National, has in one session, done Magnolia rechts Stehstart (8A+) in Mixnitz. The last month, she was #6 in the Austria Nationals.

Can you tell us more about the quick ascent?
The boulder is located at a very cool area nearby. When I saw it, I thought it wouldn't suit me at all. I actually wanted to try my project there, but it felt impossible that day. So instead I joined my friends who were already trying this boulder. I quickly found a beta that suited me and managed all the single moves pretty much straight away. A few tries later I managed to send it and I am extremely happy and excited about it.

Simone Tentori, with seven 8C’s under his belt, has completed Ephyra (8C+) in Chironico. ”I got emotional up there... Beyond psyched to have climbed this beast.” (c) Siara Fabbri

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I start seriously trying Ephyra when Elias Iagnemma asked me to join him when he was trying in February. Before that I put my hands on the crux a couple of times with no success. Climbing with him got me really psyched and with his beta I could unlock all the moves for the first time. I perfected my way on the stand (sissyfuss 8A+) until I could do it on command all the time in a static way with the high foot. So for me it was all about the crux span move the the left pinch and piecing it together.

It was a really enjoyable process since each session I felt very relaxed and motivated just to be there trying hard. Even when I was really close I never felt the pressure to send. In the last few years I expose myself a lot on difficult boulders and I'm working hard on my mental approach and this was the perfect challange to prove that I'm going in the right direction. It was for sure my most memorable climbing moment and my hardest ascent so far.

Brooke Raboutou has become the first woman to complete a 9b+ ascent by repeating Stefano Ghisolfi’s Excalibur in Arco. The 23-year-old started projecting it during a trip in the end of last year and returned to Arco for her big project last month. Adam Ondra was the first to climb a 9b+ route in 2012, and before Brooke, only eight other climbers had achieved the same grade.(c) Crimp-Films

Brooke, who got the silver in the Paris Olympics, is also famous for her outstanding Boulder tick list including a handful 8B+’, one 8C as well as one 8A+ flash.