NEWS

Sorato Anraku, 18, wins his seventh World Cup
Sorato Anraku, the overall Boulder World Cup champion for the past two years, kicked off 2025 with a victory in the season's first competition. โ€I had a good time at this comp. I really enjoyed the problems. I liked M4 because I havenโ€™t won recently because Iโ€™m not always sending the last boulder, this time I could though, so I am happy.โ€ Complete results.

Dylan Chuat ticks L'isola che non c'รจ (9a)
Dylan Chuat, with 23 routes 9a or 9a+ under his belt, has done L'isola che non c'รจ (9a) in Amden. The picture is from Dylanโ€™s flash of Gnice (8b+). โ€Superb hybrid route with the S!! I came here a year ago after a trip to Pic Saint Loupโ€”I fell at the top back then, probably wasnโ€™t in my best shape. We came back today, and I sent it on my first go from the ground, right after figuring out the beta! Such a cool effort, and the sensations were even crazier knowing I was almost sure I wouldnโ€™t fall during my try! (of course without a kneepad, We respect the first ascents ๐Ÿ™๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ˜‰)โ€

What do you mean by โ€hybrid routeโ€?
It is half boulder, half sport climb. Basically, I start with a boulder problemโ€”an 8A to be exactโ€”and once I reach the middle, my belayer clips the rope to my harness so I can continue. Itโ€™s an amazing route in a stunning location, first opened by the legend Fred Nicole.

Annie Sanders wins Boulder WC in China
Annie Sanders (17), the winner of the final Boulder World Cup in 2024, kicked off the 2025 season with a victory in Keqiao, topping one boulder and earning 54.7 points. Complete results.

Chabi Velilla Sรกnchez, 16, does Pozo verde power (9a)
Chabi Velilla Sรกnchez has done Pozo verde power (9a) in Pozo verde. It was bolted by Toรฑo Blasco in 2023, with the first ascent by Enrique Beltrรกn.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It's a very bouldering style route, about 18 meters long, and around 15 of those are roof climbing. Iโ€™ve been projecting another 9a in Foz de Zafranรฉ for the last 4 months, and this one went down in about 13 goes. Iโ€™m feeling super strong this year.

This route means a lot to me because itโ€™s in one of my local crags, right on the border between Zaragoza and Guadalajara.

What is coming up next?
I want to keep working on 8th-grade routes to improve my onsight climbing.

Only 3 comps for Janja Garnbret in 2025
Janja Garnbret, who has been a dominant force in competition climbing over the past decade, announced on Instagram that she will compete in only three events in 2025, choosing instead to dedicate more time to rock climbing.

โ€After years full of amazing competitions and especially the olympic year itself which was physically and mentally demanding, Iโ€™ve decided to do it a bit differently this year.โ€

Lara Trinkl does Nail the rail (8A+)
Lara Trinkl, who the last six weeks has done five 8Aโ€™s and her first 8A+, has sent Nail the Rail (8A+) in Zillertal.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I was originally trying Pit Bull 8A to the right of this boulder and it went ok, but I couldn't send it yet. Just as we were about to leave I thought I could give Nail the Rail a try and it was just fully my style and suited me really well. Even though the topout was scary I actually managed to send it in my first go from the start after checking the moves a few times.

How can you best explain your great progress lately?
Honestly, I have just been climbing a lot outdoors in the last few months. :)

Andrea Kรผmin ticks Moonwalk (8A+)
Andrea Kรผmin, currently six months and eleven 8Aโ€™s into a road trip with David Firnenburg, has done Moonwalk (8A+) at Vesterรธya. โ€Moonwalk is a stunning and technical line right on the coastline of Vesterรธya, Sandefjord. A tall, water-washed boulder, split by a single diagonal crack. The holds are round slopers and subtle crimps, with barely any footholds outside the crack โ€“ forcing creative movement and tricky heelhooks. The first crux comes right at the start. A polished sloper for the left hand that slopes the wrong way and nearly drove me mad. After a lot of experimenting, I finally found a technical heelhook that worked โ€“ but only if I shifted my weight with precision. The middle section is easier, but the real crux when coming from the bottom is the final long move to the top.

The first seven tries were all close โ€“ but I wasnโ€™t making progress. My arms were getting tired. But Davidโ€™s motto: โ€œStick with it when itโ€™s that close.โ€ So giving up wasnโ€™t an option. Repeating the same beta wasnโ€™t either. I could do the last move in isolation, but from the ground it was too risky and too physical when already tired. We worked out a new solution โ€“ a high heelhook on a rounded edge. Still sketchy and super technical, but if it holds, I can block the last move statically. In try 8, the heelhook slipped. I was tired but didnโ€™t want to give up just yet. Attempt 9: the movements felt smooth and automatic, but my arms were cooked after 90+ moves on this problem this day. Somehow I managed to place the heelhook, shift my weight slowly, lock off, and trace my fingertips along the edge to the saving sloper. Completely exhausted, I pulled over the top โ€“ and couldnโ€™t believe it. Mega! Sticking with it paid off!โ€


David has logged over 75 boulders graded 8A and above on the road trip, including 12 flashesโ€”two of which were 8Bโ€™s in just the past two weeks. They're now putting together an overview of the best areas and standout boulders from their journey through Scandinavia.

Blรฅ blomster ss (8B) in Moss. โ€Oh, wow, that was short and intense. Toe hook sticked, toe stayed, just hit the crimp right, could hold the tension and pull through the lock-off. Thanks to Andrea to demonstrate the moves of the stand start in beforehand. Hard to grade this climb if you only had one try. Did just everything work perfectly? Would it have taken me a whole session after failing the flash try? I was close to fall but it somehow didnโ€™t feel like a proper 8B to me, more like an 8A+ compared to other 8B climbs Iโ€™ve done in Sweden on the same type of rock right before coming here. Though, Thilo who did the FA is known for making solid grades. Whatever! Great climb during a fun little session with Andrea. Unfortunately, this place is just next to a road and there is trash everywhere. Norway has definitely more beautiful places to offer๐Ÿ˜†โ€

Din Dean (8B) in Tokerud. โ€Wow, another flash. One of the great lines on this crag. Was close to miss the pocket but somehow sticked it. Kept it together with some hesitation and imprecise placements here and there. Like Blรฅ Blomster I think itโ€˜s soft for the grade, at least for my size. Maybe 8A+.โ€

Loic Zehani FAโ€™s La Sainte Poule (9a+)
Loic Zehani, who previously has done 17 FAโ€™s 9a+ or 9b, has made the FA of La Sainte Poule (9a+) in Sainte-Baume. The picture is from his FA of Harder Better Faster Stronger (9b) from last autumn.

โ€Nice line where everything happens in the first part. A dozen moves ( not the most beautiful ! ) that lead to a very nice and tricky boulder section ( about 8A over 3 moves ) , then after a rest (not good) another nice boulder section wich works the shoulders well ! The second part , much less harder, is very beautiful . Bolted by my father with "la Poule" 's points , thanks to him.โ€

Alex Megos onsights Dรฉvers Sรฉvรจre (8c/+)
Alex Megos, who just put up the hardest route in Buoux, Le Grand Saccage (9a+/b), has on the same trip onsighted Dรฉvers Sรฉvรจre (8c+) and Finement con (8b+). (c) Jan Virt

The German climber is renowned for achieving the worldโ€™s first 9a onsight and has onsighted around 20 routes graded 8c or harder. This places him second only to Adam Ondra, who has onsighted approximately 100 routes at 8c and above.

Can you tell us more about the onsights, full control or any epic moves?
Dรฉvers Sรฉvรจre was only close at the very top. I couldn't properly see the holds and almost fell ๐Ÿ˜…. I did a 360 campus in the beginning of the route. It's a horizontal roof and I actually think my 360 campus was the best method ๐Ÿ‘Œ๐Ÿผ

The 8b+ I did onsight was very straight forward pulling on pockets. It was very much my style.

How come you think there has not been any onsight progress over the last ten years?
I think Adam is the only one who really got into the onsight game. He focused a lot on it and really prepared for some hard onsights. Most people don't do that and have not done it. It will maybe come in the future, but at the moment the projecting game is much more in fashion. I think it's a matter of people not wanting to invest to much time and energy into only one try. If it's goes wrong it's over. There is no second try. So you need to be a) a very strong and intuitive climber and b) you need to be willing to invest time.

โ€ฆ
75
โ€ฆ