NEWS
25 April 2025
Katie Lambert, 45, does High Country Lover (8c+)
Katie Lambert, with six 8b+โ under her belt, has done High Country Lover (8c+) in Pine Creek. The 45-year-old needed well over 30 sessions during four seasons for the send of the Ben Ditto route that sits at some 2 400 meters elevation.
Can you tell us more about the ascent, the process behind and peaking at 45?
Its the second ascent, and has been tried by a few others. True to my post when Ben first started climbing on it years ago I couldnโt do the โcruxโ and the rest just seemed overwhelmingly burly and I felt like;
1)it would be completely badass to be able to climb well on this thing
2)in order to do that I would need time, patience and would need to get stronger
3) and what a worthy goal.
Having limit projects at home is kind of ideal for all of that as it takes some of the stress of โtimeโ and โaccessโ away. However being south facing and a little at elevation there were a lot of challenges with โconditionsโ. Each season I tried I would creep up to the end of the season having almost sent and then get shut down for many months due to weather and temps and then have to kind of start all over again when the sending seasons arrived.
Last year having gotten close again and then shut down I told myself I needed to level up my base strength and mental game in order to get it done within the good windows we have. I was aiming for this past fall but what with climate change and all the weirdness that brings we didnt have much of a fall with things going from an extended summer to freezing winter. So I told myself to prioritize for spring, stay relaxed but focused with it, and just do my best.
You know the game- try your hardest but be completely unattached to the outcome. That mindset really had me approaching this climb more as a practice than really anything else.
Peaking at 45, Iโd say its really the Euros and Bill Ramsey that inspire this for me. And tbh I donโt think Iโve fully peaked yet- lol.
Can you tell us more about the ascent, the process behind and peaking at 45?
Its the second ascent, and has been tried by a few others. True to my post when Ben first started climbing on it years ago I couldnโt do the โcruxโ and the rest just seemed overwhelmingly burly and I felt like;
1)it would be completely badass to be able to climb well on this thing
2)in order to do that I would need time, patience and would need to get stronger
3) and what a worthy goal.
Having limit projects at home is kind of ideal for all of that as it takes some of the stress of โtimeโ and โaccessโ away. However being south facing and a little at elevation there were a lot of challenges with โconditionsโ. Each season I tried I would creep up to the end of the season having almost sent and then get shut down for many months due to weather and temps and then have to kind of start all over again when the sending seasons arrived.
Last year having gotten close again and then shut down I told myself I needed to level up my base strength and mental game in order to get it done within the good windows we have. I was aiming for this past fall but what with climate change and all the weirdness that brings we didnt have much of a fall with things going from an extended summer to freezing winter. So I told myself to prioritize for spring, stay relaxed but focused with it, and just do my best.
You know the game- try your hardest but be completely unattached to the outcome. That mindset really had me approaching this climb more as a practice than really anything else.
Peaking at 45, Iโd say its really the Euros and Bill Ramsey that inspire this for me. And tbh I donโt think Iโve fully peaked yet- lol.
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38
225 April 2025
Eli Perry does Grand Illusion (8c+)
Eli Perry, who did his first 7C in 2022, has done Grand Illusion (8C+) in Little Cottonwood.
Can you tell us more about your ascent?
I first tried the stand start of this climb, Euro Roof, in spring of 2023, every shoulder season I would put more time into this boulder working my way down from each start. Every season I came back I felt a bit stronger and made some good progression. This spring I was able to climb on it pretty early in the season because some of my homies, Brian and Jackson, dug it out. Always just had the best time up at the boulder, all the moves a really fun and always had a good crew, it was also very convenient with how close it is to my house.
How can you best explain your extreme progress the last years?
Not really sure how to best explain it but I just got very hooked on climbing and started going out as much as possible, I think a big reason why Iโve progressed quickly is because of how many days Iโm willing to put into a boulder. Very soon after I started really getting into climbing I would put between 8-13 sessions on a project, which soon evolved into putting in 30-50 sessions to get a boulder done. I feel like this has definitely helped me learn how to solve moves and use a lot of different tactics to get up the wall rather than just strength. I also owe a big part of it to the boards, pretty much anytime Iโm not projecting a climb I am on the boards.
What is next?
I just checked out the low moves on the Sosa roof V16 [8C+] and got pretty psyched on that one, hoping I can T it up this spring for the fall. Other than that I am going to be in Rocklands this summer so Iโm psyched to get on a bunch of different blocs out there!
Can you tell us more about your ascent?
I first tried the stand start of this climb, Euro Roof, in spring of 2023, every shoulder season I would put more time into this boulder working my way down from each start. Every season I came back I felt a bit stronger and made some good progression. This spring I was able to climb on it pretty early in the season because some of my homies, Brian and Jackson, dug it out. Always just had the best time up at the boulder, all the moves a really fun and always had a good crew, it was also very convenient with how close it is to my house.
How can you best explain your extreme progress the last years?
Not really sure how to best explain it but I just got very hooked on climbing and started going out as much as possible, I think a big reason why Iโve progressed quickly is because of how many days Iโm willing to put into a boulder. Very soon after I started really getting into climbing I would put between 8-13 sessions on a project, which soon evolved into putting in 30-50 sessions to get a boulder done. I feel like this has definitely helped me learn how to solve moves and use a lot of different tactics to get up the wall rather than just strength. I also owe a big part of it to the boards, pretty much anytime Iโm not projecting a climb I am on the boards.
What is next?
I just checked out the low moves on the Sosa roof V16 [8C+] and got pretty psyched on that one, hoping I can T it up this spring for the fall. Other than that I am going to be in Rocklands this summer so Iโm psyched to get on a bunch of different blocs out there!
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22
024 April 2025
Also Brooke takes a break from comps
Brooke Raboutou, who two weeks ago sent Excalibur (9b+), has posted on Instagram that she will not do any Boulder World Cups and instead focus on outdoors. (c) Crimp.Films
โ Ever since the Tokyo Olympics, Iโve told myself that 2025 would be my โoutdoor year.โ Over the past six years, Iโve prioritized competitions and sprinkled in outdoor climbing to keep my spirit alive. But this year, I really wanted to commit to my big goals on rock.โ
Last week, Janja Garnbret announced that she plans to compete in only three events in 2025, choosing to focus on outdoor climbing.
โ Ever since the Tokyo Olympics, Iโve told myself that 2025 would be my โoutdoor year.โ Over the past six years, Iโve prioritized competitions and sprinkled in outdoor climbing to keep my spirit alive. But this year, I really wanted to commit to my big goals on rock.โ
Last week, Janja Garnbret announced that she plans to compete in only three events in 2025, choosing to focus on outdoor climbing.
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42
023 April 2025
Benito Blanco ticks La Sensacion del Bloque (9a)
Benito Blanco muรฑoz has completed La Sensacion del Bloque (9a) in Valle de los Cรณndores. Now 23, he started climbing at 17, and six months ago his personal best was 8b. The route was first ascended by Alex Megos in 2017 and has since been repeated by Adam Ondra, Facundo Langbehn, and, just two weeks ago, Ronny Escobar. (c) Cris Posadas
Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
The route has gained a really high reputation in Chile, it's like the gem or the 'pride' of the country in a way. It is really sustained and with my sequence it is about 35 moves before the hard part is over. It starts with an 'easy' intro that you have to climb very efficiently, and then it all comes down to two main hard boulders stacked on top of each other with no rest.
The climbing on this crag is very special, the wall is very steep (about 50ยฐ) and it's full of big hexagonal like blocks, which makes for lots of heel hooks, toehooks, knee bars and generally really psychical compression climbing.
I was really intimidated to come and try it because of its reputation and climbing style, I didn't feel confident at all on this psychical heel hook compression tricky climbing style and I thought of it as my antistyle. At the same time, it was really nice because I came with no expectations and really open to learn and get better, with a really playful attitude.
It was really helpful for me to share some days on the route with Ronny Escobar, a really experienced and strong climber from Santiago, not only to share betas and sensations on the route, but he also helped to boost my confidence that I could do it. Ronny did the 4th ascent of the route two weeks ago and watching him send the route made me really psyched to do it too.
My process on the route was much easier and smoother than expected, the links came together quite quickly, and after two weeks of being here I found myself dropping the last hard move of the route. Then it took another week of bad skin, nerves, fatigue or just bad luck with the rope tangling on my feet to actually send it. I had planned to rest on the day of the send, as my skin wasn't great, but I got psyched seeing people trying hard on their projects, that I decided to tape my fingers and do some 'training burns'... and on the first go of the day I found myself clipping the chains of this beautiful line.
Can you say something about your climbing background and your fast progress in grades lately?
I've been climbing for just over 6 years and I've always been attracted to doing things that challenge me and I get a lot of enjoyment from trying things that I don't know if I can do.
I was out of Chile for nearly two years, and before I left, I didn't climb that hard and hadn't try many things, so when I came back to Chile, I knew I was stronger and I had lots of things to try and new crags to go to.
I was really psyched with bouldering at the time and doing Inferno (8B+) gave me some confidence to try other hard things. I hadn't planned to try 'la sensacion del bloque' any time soon, but after a trip to Patagonia, where I did the 2nd ascent of 'acordeon session', the idea came up as a joke with a friend.
Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
The route has gained a really high reputation in Chile, it's like the gem or the 'pride' of the country in a way. It is really sustained and with my sequence it is about 35 moves before the hard part is over. It starts with an 'easy' intro that you have to climb very efficiently, and then it all comes down to two main hard boulders stacked on top of each other with no rest.
The climbing on this crag is very special, the wall is very steep (about 50ยฐ) and it's full of big hexagonal like blocks, which makes for lots of heel hooks, toehooks, knee bars and generally really psychical compression climbing.
I was really intimidated to come and try it because of its reputation and climbing style, I didn't feel confident at all on this psychical heel hook compression tricky climbing style and I thought of it as my antistyle. At the same time, it was really nice because I came with no expectations and really open to learn and get better, with a really playful attitude.
It was really helpful for me to share some days on the route with Ronny Escobar, a really experienced and strong climber from Santiago, not only to share betas and sensations on the route, but he also helped to boost my confidence that I could do it. Ronny did the 4th ascent of the route two weeks ago and watching him send the route made me really psyched to do it too.
My process on the route was much easier and smoother than expected, the links came together quite quickly, and after two weeks of being here I found myself dropping the last hard move of the route. Then it took another week of bad skin, nerves, fatigue or just bad luck with the rope tangling on my feet to actually send it. I had planned to rest on the day of the send, as my skin wasn't great, but I got psyched seeing people trying hard on their projects, that I decided to tape my fingers and do some 'training burns'... and on the first go of the day I found myself clipping the chains of this beautiful line.
Can you say something about your climbing background and your fast progress in grades lately?
I've been climbing for just over 6 years and I've always been attracted to doing things that challenge me and I get a lot of enjoyment from trying things that I don't know if I can do.
I was out of Chile for nearly two years, and before I left, I didn't climb that hard and hadn't try many things, so when I came back to Chile, I knew I was stronger and I had lots of things to try and new crags to go to.
I was really psyched with bouldering at the time and doing Inferno (8B+) gave me some confidence to try other hard things. I hadn't planned to try 'la sensacion del bloque' any time soon, but after a trip to Patagonia, where I did the 2nd ascent of 'acordeon session', the idea came up as a joke with a friend.
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21
023 April 2025
Big day for Karoline Sinnhuber: 8A, 8A+ and 8B
Karoline Sinnhuber has during one busy day in Zillertal sent
Mother Firestarter (8A), No lazy tendons (8A+) and
The Restless mind (8B), Insta video. (c) Igor Depoorter
Can you tell us more about that productive day?
The Weather forecast didnโt look that great, as we heard it was raining in the morning in the Zillertal. We still decided to risk it and first went to the boulder โNo lazy tendonsโ, where I had already spent 2 sessions and fell super close in the 2nd session. Surprisingly, the bloc was super dry and after a few warm-up tries I knew that this one would definitely be possible today. Itโs quite an unknown river bloc where there is basically only this boulder. It climbs super well and it took me one session to figure out all the Moves because they are super techy (at least for me).
As I had still some unfinished business from 2 days ago in the other valley, we drove over. It was raining quite a lot over there. We were sitting in the car โShould we go up, or should we train in the gym?โ - โLetโs risk it and hike up!โ. Good decision, as the bloc was dry and only the top out wet. โRestless mindโ is the lower start to โDark Dogโ, which adds 4 tensiony moves into the stand start. I struggled a lot with doing the first move of the stand, when coming in from the sit. Topping out on the wet boulder added definitely some spice.
The last one on the list was โMother Firestarterโ, which shredded my pinky already twice due to a super sharp crimpy thing. This boulder is unique. First, a super fancy cross move and then a hard shoulder move with a super small high feet box. Imo it could also be 8A+, but this one is my anti-style, so idk. As I canโt do the small box movement with tape on the pinky, I decided to put it off, knowing this is probably my one and only try with my semi-shredded pinky. And wow. I managed to wander up with my feet, next to my Hand; managed to match the shoulder somehow and to add the last move. What a day. Super psyched for some more bouldering days outside now!
Can you tell us more about that productive day?
The Weather forecast didnโt look that great, as we heard it was raining in the morning in the Zillertal. We still decided to risk it and first went to the boulder โNo lazy tendonsโ, where I had already spent 2 sessions and fell super close in the 2nd session. Surprisingly, the bloc was super dry and after a few warm-up tries I knew that this one would definitely be possible today. Itโs quite an unknown river bloc where there is basically only this boulder. It climbs super well and it took me one session to figure out all the Moves because they are super techy (at least for me).
As I had still some unfinished business from 2 days ago in the other valley, we drove over. It was raining quite a lot over there. We were sitting in the car โShould we go up, or should we train in the gym?โ - โLetโs risk it and hike up!โ. Good decision, as the bloc was dry and only the top out wet. โRestless mindโ is the lower start to โDark Dogโ, which adds 4 tensiony moves into the stand start. I struggled a lot with doing the first move of the stand, when coming in from the sit. Topping out on the wet boulder added definitely some spice.
The last one on the list was โMother Firestarterโ, which shredded my pinky already twice due to a super sharp crimpy thing. This boulder is unique. First, a super fancy cross move and then a hard shoulder move with a super small high feet box. Imo it could also be 8A+, but this one is my anti-style, so idk. As I canโt do the small box movement with tape on the pinky, I decided to put it off, knowing this is probably my one and only try with my semi-shredded pinky. And wow. I managed to wander up with my feet, next to my Hand; managed to match the shoulder somehow and to add the last move. What a day. Super psyched for some more bouldering days outside now!
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21
023 April 2025
Race to 9a: Trotter, Caldwell and Honnold
"Follow Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell and Sonnie Trotter, as they share their thoughts on juggling family, work, and their process of difficult repoint climbing from February 2024 in Las Vegas, until Sonnie's ascent of 'Spirit Quest' on June 10th, 2024. Located in Squamish, BC, Canada.
"
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9
022 April 2025
Jules Marchaland FAโs Le bruit de lโacid (9b)
Jules Marchaland, who last month sent his fifth 9a+, has done the FA of Le bruit de lโacid (9b) in Claret.
Can you tell us more about the FA?
It links Guรจre de bruit (9a) with a hard boulder with a massive cross dyno. Fell 20 times here and 4 times at the last boulder problem of Super Samson (8c). 7c+ route - 8b boulder - 7c+ boulder without rest. So happy for this mega route. First time tried a route that suited me so well. Harder than the 9a+โs Iโve done. Super psyched. Thanks again Lucien.
Can you tell us more about the FA?
It links Guรจre de bruit (9a) with a hard boulder with a massive cross dyno. Fell 20 times here and 4 times at the last boulder problem of Super Samson (8c). 7c+ route - 8b boulder - 7c+ boulder without rest. So happy for this mega route. First time tried a route that suited me so well. Harder than the 9a+โs Iโve done. Super psyched. Thanks again Lucien.
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46
022 April 2025
Emily Nicole does Power Slave (8A+)
Emily Nicole has completed Power Slave (8A+), her first of the grade, in Gateway Canyon.
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I gravitate towards overhanging, powerful problems with small holds and decent feet so Power Slave was exactly what I was looking for in a boulder. The first two sessions I was able to do every move except the crux. I spent the next 3 months building up endurance on the bottom moves so I would have a chance at sticking the crux from the start. By month 3 I could only do the crux in isolation 25% of the time, and it was 5 moves in. I donโt climb at the gym and during this time I didnโt climb anything else outside, I just ran laps on Power Slave and kept dialing in every possible micro-beta.
It was starting to get hot in Vegas but there was a window of better temps and everything aligned for me to walk away with the send! I started climbing 24 years ago so bouldering v12 is something Iโve dreamed about for a long time. Iโm so psyched!!!
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I gravitate towards overhanging, powerful problems with small holds and decent feet so Power Slave was exactly what I was looking for in a boulder. The first two sessions I was able to do every move except the crux. I spent the next 3 months building up endurance on the bottom moves so I would have a chance at sticking the crux from the start. By month 3 I could only do the crux in isolation 25% of the time, and it was 5 moves in. I donโt climb at the gym and during this time I didnโt climb anything else outside, I just ran laps on Power Slave and kept dialing in every possible micro-beta.
It was starting to get hot in Vegas but there was a window of better temps and everything aligned for me to walk away with the send! I started climbing 24 years ago so bouldering v12 is something Iโve dreamed about for a long time. Iโm so psyched!!!
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9
021 April 2025
ล tฤpรกn Volf FAโs Valaลกskรฝ express (8C)
ล tฤpรกn Volf has done the FA of
Valaลกskรฝ express (8C) in Moravskรฝ kras. โLongest Boulder project till date. Around 8 moves 8A+/B, into basically just 4 moves of 8B/B+. Pure power in the roof with Bat hang rest in the middle of the Boulder on this weird crack. Almost everytime wet, super happy to finnish this project of before China!โ
Can you tell us more about the FA?
The last hold of the first part, Cheating Power (8B), is actually the start hold of the second half, Muscle Power (8B), so I am bit surprised no one had already done it. The whole thing has no more than 15 moves, but the hardest are actually two sequences with feet adjustment. I love climbing in the roofs so this line was pretty obvious line for me to try. The proces was kind of long, first part is almost every time wet so most of the sessions I was just practising second part, till I was able to do it two times in a row. Then I was just waiting till the Boulder was finally dry and luckily enough, I sent it in first dry session.
What is happening in China and can you tell us more about the bat hang?
There is World cup in lead in couple of days and I am going there with the Czech team as a Coach.
In the middle of the two sections there is an open crack where you can rest afrer jamming your feet, but to really rest there properly it requires a lot of toehooking strength. I could hang there around 30 seconds. But you need to save some energy because right after this rest there is hard sequence where you still need that toehook power. Luckily, toehooks are my strong skill.
Can you tell us more about the FA?
The last hold of the first part, Cheating Power (8B), is actually the start hold of the second half, Muscle Power (8B), so I am bit surprised no one had already done it. The whole thing has no more than 15 moves, but the hardest are actually two sequences with feet adjustment. I love climbing in the roofs so this line was pretty obvious line for me to try. The proces was kind of long, first part is almost every time wet so most of the sessions I was just practising second part, till I was able to do it two times in a row. Then I was just waiting till the Boulder was finally dry and luckily enough, I sent it in first dry session.
What is happening in China and can you tell us more about the bat hang?
There is World cup in lead in couple of days and I am going there with the Czech team as a Coach.
In the middle of the two sections there is an open crack where you can rest afrer jamming your feet, but to really rest there properly it requires a lot of toehooking strength. I could hang there around 30 seconds. But you need to save some energy because right after this rest there is hard sequence where you still need that toehook power. Luckily, toehooks are my strong skill.
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9
221 April 2025
Katalin Paertan ticks Sundance sit (8A+)
Katalin Paertan, with eleven 8Aโs under her belt, has done Sundance Sit (8A+) in Zillertal.
โWhat an amazing line! Really suits my style. On the first day I had to get quite creative and found some weird beta that worked quite well for me, but getting the last kneebar in stayed quite a struggle. Really psyched I could fight through it two sessions later. First of the grade!โ
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I really wanted to do this line when visiting Zillertal. At first I got a little desperate as the conventional betas either felt too difficult or too reachy for me. Then I managed to make a different heel hook work and optimize the beta in the upper part. It rained quite a lot in our last few days there which made it uncertain whether there would be another chance to send it after I failed to do so in the second session. Luckily it dried up quite quickly and I could use this final opportunity.
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I really wanted to do this line when visiting Zillertal. At first I got a little desperate as the conventional betas either felt too difficult or too reachy for me. Then I managed to make a different heel hook work and optimize the beta in the upper part. It rained quite a lot in our last few days there which made it uncertain whether there would be another chance to send it after I failed to do so in the second session. Luckily it dried up quite quickly and I could use this final opportunity.
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9
0 Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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13Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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81Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
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69Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
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