5 June 2025

Jules Marchaland ticks Pornographie (9a)

Jules Marchaland, who was runner up in the French Nationals last month, has completed Pornographie (9a) in Cรฉรผse. In total, the 24-year-old has sent 19 routes 9a to 9b. (c) Julia Cassou

โ€4 days for the side proj of Ratsa [Vibration (9b)]. I struggled a lot more than I thought. One move at the very top cost me 6 falls. 2 minutes of climbing for 35 moves. I used my runner skills for this short power fingery route. This debate of grading is so shit because if you want a 9a you climb without kneebar. But for me itโ€™s just annoying to use kneepads in such a pure cliff. So for sure 9a without kneebar. 8c+ with. But today thatโ€™s the rule. Maybe I climb an 8c+ in an harder way. I donโ€™t care, itโ€™s such a cool route and a good effort.โ€
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