NEWS

1.58.07 by Caldwell and Honnold
Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell have set their third Speed record of the almost 900 meters The Nose in Yosemite, 1.58.07. (c) John Evans

8c, 8c/+ and 8c+ by Angie Eiter
Angela Eiter, the best female Lead competition climber in the history who last year did a 9b, has done some yet impressive ascents. In Frankenjura she has done Battle Cat 8c in just three attempts and there is more. (c) Bernie Ruech โ€œToday I had a cool sending day in Allgรคu in Germany! I completed "Basica 8c/+" and the combination "Andiamo, 8c+".

9a by Jonathan Siegrist with figure four
Jonathan Siegrist has onsigthed Wrongdoer 8b+ in Mt Charleston where he also did Arrested Development 9a. "Actually used a figure four! Enormous move at the third bolt was my crux." Figure four means that you put your leg over your arm and almost sit on it in order reach further to a relatively small hold. More info and video sequence on his Insta In the 8a ranking game, the 167 cm tall is #4.

Vertical-Life challenges with great prizes
Every month, Vertical-Life run different challenges with a chance for great prizes for everyone who "zlags" some hundred meters of climbing. The June VL Challenge is to climb 550 meters or some 120 boulders and you can be the winner of a free spot of a Rock buster Europe trip in September and many more prizes. In the challenge you can also get an updated ranking for the gyms, the crags and the individuals zlagging most meters.

Based on more than 1 500 unique votes, here are the results to - Male Climbing Hero? Results from 2017 in brackets. 33 % Adam Ondra (32) 16 % Alex Megos (7) 09 % Chris Sharma (17) 07 % Alex Honnold, Fred Nicole and Wolfgang Gรผllich (12) 05 % Tommy Caldwell (5) 03 % Dani Andrada (6) and Yuji Hirayama (3) 09 % Others

9a+ FA by Pirmin Bertle
Pirmin Bertle has made the FA of Focus Pocus 9a+ in Jansegg and you have the full story here. "The hardest single move of this first seven-moves-boulder is an extremely extended stretch out to a miniscule one finger pocket. It you donโ€™t hit it well, you wonโ€™t hold it. If you are smaller than 1,80m you wonโ€™t reach out to the foot holds and when you donโ€™t have my finger strength โ€“ I have to admit that my static power isnโ€™t the worst neither โ€“ you wonโ€™t move at all in the whole sequence. And if you have thicker fingers than me โ€“ what should be the case for most of the very strongly trained high end climbers โ€“ you wonโ€™t even enter into this mono." Pirmin has previoulsy done 20 routes 9a and harder out of which 14 FA, including two 9b'sand two 9a+'s.

R & I reports that Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell has set a new Speed record of the 900 meters long The Nose in Yosemite, 2.01.50. Last week they did it in 2.10.15 so probably they will try to go sub 2 hours next.

Japan dominated the male qualification in Japan with six guys in Top-12 and a total of seven into the semifinal. Further down the list, they had 13 among Top-32. Complete results

France totally dominated the European Youth Cup in Bouldering in Delft with three golds and another four medals. Interesting is that Sandra Lettner, who was #4 in the only World Cup she has done this year, was also fourth among the ones born 01. 99: Peter Ivanov BUL - Mattea Pรถtzi AUT 01: Matteo Baschieri ITA - Favy Cohaut FRA 03: Paul Jenft FRA - Naile Meignan FRA