4 June 2018
9a+ FA by Pirmin Bertle
Pirmin Bertle has made the FA of Focus Pocus 9a+ in Jansegg and you have the full story here.
"The hardest single move of this first seven-moves-boulder is an extremely extended stretch out to a miniscule one finger pocket. It you donโt hit it well, you wonโt hold it. If you are smaller than 1,80m you wonโt reach out to the foot holds and when you donโt have my finger strength โ I have to admit that my static power isnโt the worst neither โ you wonโt move at all in the whole sequence. And if you have thicker fingers than me โ what should be the case for most of the very strongly trained high end climbers โ you wonโt even enter into this mono."
Pirmin has previoulsy done 20 routes 9a and harder out of which 14 FA, including two 9b'sand two 9a+'s.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Second 9a for Pirmin Bertle
Pirmin Bertle has done Cabane au Canada, 9a in Rawyl. "One of the best hard lines in Switzerland. Pure endurance on 80 hard moves in one big overhanging slab. With 19 tries (at least for me :) a quite fast ascent." Pirmin is #9 in the ranking game.
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8c+ FA in Tarn by Pirmin Bertle
Pirmin Bertle has (probably) done the FA of Mehw power, 8c+ in Gorges du Tarn. "Bouldery 8a+ climbing to a moderate rest followed by a Fb7c boulder on tiny holds. To be finished in a really magnificant 8a pocket route. 10 tries." This was his 11th FA 8b+ and harder in 2010.
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