NEWS

Noah Wheeler does Railway (8C)
Noah Wheeler, who earlier in 2025 has sent his first two 9Aโ€™s, has done Railway (8C) in Wild Basin. โ€Epicโ€™d this a bit 2 years ago, with the first move always feeling incredibly hard. Had a bunch of close goes over the years but it never felt particularly inevitable. Came out today and stuck the first move 2/2 times, trying just hard enough to make it to the top the second time. This was the first 15 [8C] I tried in Colorado. After lots of skin-related tribulations, Iโ€™m grateful to do it right before I graduate.โ€

Radek Votocek does Intermezzo XY gelรถst (9a)
Radek Votocek, who the last seven weeks has done his first two 9aโ€™s, has repeated Klem Loskotโ€™s Intermezzo XY gelรถst (9a) in Plombergstein. โ€Pure joy of movement ๐Ÿ™‚๐Ÿ”ฅโ€

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Intermezzo XY gelรถst is a route in the beautiful lake region of Austria. Itโ€™s only about 8 meters long, with a super intense boulder section right at the first bolt. The crux is a big reach into a sloper from a tiny pinch.

On the day of the send, I didnโ€™t feel in great shape, but on my second try I gave it everything in the boulder and managed to get through. The traverse and the finish were pretty chill after that. Super psychedโ€”this is my first 9a in Austria!

Marci Bombardi ticks three 9aโ€™s
Marcello Bombardi, with a dozen 9aโ€™s and harder under his belt, has during the last month done Prima Classe (9a), Vivi si muore (9a+) and Trainspotting (9a+), all in Val Tanaro. The 31-year-old Italian climber has been a fixture on the IFSC circuit since 2007, securing a standout victory at the 2017 World Cup in Chamonix. (c) Nicolรฒ Vece

Can you tell us more about these three 9a ascents?
Iโ€™ve been at La stazione last year when temperatures were already quite high to try something hard. I started trying Prima classe but after a few days I postponed the project. Few weeks ago the right season for that crag was reopening and I was psyched to go. The climb is the type I really like: steep, physical, on nice and natural (not chipped) crimps. I managed to send Prima classe the first day of this year and immediately tried the other two routes: Vivi si Muore and Trainspotting. Vivi si muore is maybe the one I liked the most. Three boulder problems, each one of them ending with a dynamic move to a jug. Feeling strong and excited on those holds, I managed to climb both of them in a few days.

What are your competition plans in 2025?
About comps, I still donโ€™t know. We have the first national comps which are selective for the national team taking part at the other World Cups of this year.

Why are these your first hard routes in two years?
Ahah good question! Mainly because I am focused on training for comps, which is my work, during most of the year and I am not really good on climbing outside at the same time. Also because I like other type of climbing as well. End of 2023 I mostly bouldered, then started the multipitch and trad game, 2024 I also injured my shoulder which made me loose a lot of time in good shape.

What is your your work?
I am a professional climber thanks to the support of the military sport group for which the objectives are comps.

Nicolas Cioffi FAโ€™s Il Samurai (9a)
Nicolas Cioffi has done the FA of Il samurai (9a) in Bismantova. โ€Everything felt perfect! Conditions, mental game and my climbing!โ€

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The route start with a boulder, Colpo grosso al drago rosso, in the roof, 17 moves on pockets. Each move is not too hard but is very physical so the hard part is to link moves together. After this you are directly in the beginning of L'aeroplano (8b+) a classic and pumpy route that traverse to the right and goes up following the corner of the crag. Route is 43 moves in total with my beta.

Yesterday condition were perfect: sunny, windy and cold. I felt strong and relaxed I did two attempts before the send but I fell just after the first section: I was a bit nervous and I didnโ€™t climb properly, but I also felt physically very strong. I knew i could do it. I took around 1 hr rest to focus and during the send I felt literally flowing: no pressure and not even a small mistake.

Jana Svecova does Mild Abuse of Terminology (8B+)
Jana Svecova, with four 8B+ and beyond under her belt, has done Mild Abuse of Terminology (8B+) in Tokerud. โ€FFA, 3rd ascent, Five days, although on day 3, I fell from the final jug. Then no rest and training session, after rest fell again from the jug, but kept it together and did it next go. What a drama, what a cool line. The moves! Boulder made for me!โ€

Babsi Zangerl ticks Bombardino (9a+)
Babsi Zangerl, with two 9aโ€™s under her belt, has repeated Adam Ondraโ€™s Bombardino (9a+) in Arco. (c) Jacopo Larcher

โ€After more or less two months of effort, I finally climbed my first 9a+! Bombardino had me completely hooked from the very beginning. A huge thank you to Adam Ondra for establishing such an incredible and inspiring lineโ€”it's one of those climbs that just draws you in and doesnโ€™t let go.

Every session above the village of Arco felt like a little mission. The view over Lake Garda gave the whole process this unique, almost vacation-like atmosphereโ€”even on the tough days, it was hard to complain. The deeper I got into the project, the more excitingโ€”and emotionalโ€”it became. I fell three times on the very last hard moveโ€ฆ and with each fall, the doubts grew louder. The temperatures were rising, the climbing became more exhausting, and I could feel the window slowly closing. The route started to feel more unpredictableโ€”some days I made real progress, others it felt completely out of reach.

On the day I sent it, it was warmโ€”26 degreesโ€”not exactly my idea of perfect sending temps. Iโ€™d already had three tries, and only one of them felt decent. And of course, I fell again on the last move. At that point, I had zero expectations left. I just wanted to give it one last try as a bit of training. Nothing more. But then somehowโ€ฆ everything clicked. Right from the first move, I knew I had to fight. My body was tired, but my mind was calm. Move after move, I just kept going. I knew exactly what to doโ€”when to breathe, when to push. When I stuck the crux and kept moving, completely pumped, I still didnโ€™t believe it. Not until I clipped the chains. I was totally wrecked, but my endurance held onโ€”just long enough.

The ups and downs, the doubts, the tiny breakthroughsโ€”that feeling of giving everything for something, even if itโ€™s โ€œjust a climbโ€โ€ฆ it felt amazing. Huge thanks to everyone who supported me on this lineโ€”Jacopo, Manu, Barbara, Arba, Lucasโ€”thank you for the belays, the patience, the encouragement, and all the good vibes. You made this experience even more special.โ€


In the domain of multi-discipline climbingโ€”including traditional and big-wall disciplinesโ€”Babsi is recognized as the preeminent female climber and is confidently regarded as one of the top five climbers in the world, irrespective of gender.

Hamish McArthur, fresh off his recent ascent of Megatron (9A), has repeated Nathaniel Coleman's No One Mourns The Wicked (9A) at South Platte. The line adds an 8B sit start to Defying Gravity (8C). Impressively, the 23-year-old completed the climb in just one sessionโ€”an unprecedented benchmark for a 9A boulder. (c) Quinn Mason

โ€I know that the metrics of โ€climbing V17 [9A] in a single sessionโ€ is what gets chosen for the headline, but I want to draw closer attention to the immeasurable preparation that gives this metric colour - most of which is a kind of letting go. I just want to keep surprising myself forever.โ€

Hamishโ€™s Sunday session:
11:15 โ€“ started hiking
12:00 โ€“ arrived at boulder
12.30 โ€“ tried Defying Gravity
13:15 โ€“ stuck crux move
13:30 โ€“ sent Defying Gravity
13:45 - tried No One Mourns The Wicked
14:15 โ€“ stuck low crux
14:47 โ€“ sent No One Mourns The Wicked
15: 45 โ€“ started hiking

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So you can focus on your next crux move.

Erin McNeice wins back-to-back
Erin McNeice, coming off her first World Cup victory in Wujiang last week, secured another win at the Lead World Cup in Bali by topping all four routes. Chaehyun Seo, who shared gold with Erin in Wujiang, topped all but one qualification route and finished second.

Satone Yoshida wins his first World Cup
Satone Yoshida, who was #4 in Wujiang last week, won all three rounds in the Bali Lead World Cup. The last two years the 20-year-old was #7 overall. Max Bertone, who advanced to the finals through a countback after placing 14th in qualifications, rose to the occasion when it mattered most and secured the silver medal.

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