
7 May 2025
Nicolas Cioffi FAโs Il Samurai (9a)
Nicolas Cioffi has done the FA of Il samurai (9a) in Bismantova. โEverything felt perfect! Conditions, mental game and my climbing!โ
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The route start with a boulder, Colpo grosso al drago rosso, in the roof, 17 moves on pockets. Each move is not too hard but is very physical so the hard part is to link moves together. After this you are directly in the beginning of L'aeroplano (8b+) a classic and pumpy route that traverse to the right and goes up following the corner of the crag. Route is 43 moves in total with my beta.
Yesterday condition were perfect: sunny, windy and cold. I felt strong and relaxed I did two attempts before the send but I fell just after the first section: I was a bit nervous and I didnโt climb properly, but I also felt physically very strong. I knew i could do it. I took around 1 hr rest to focus and during the send I felt literally flowing: no pressure and not even a small mistake.
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The route start with a boulder, Colpo grosso al drago rosso, in the roof, 17 moves on pockets. Each move is not too hard but is very physical so the hard part is to link moves together. After this you are directly in the beginning of L'aeroplano (8b+) a classic and pumpy route that traverse to the right and goes up following the corner of the crag. Route is 43 moves in total with my beta.
Yesterday condition were perfect: sunny, windy and cold. I felt strong and relaxed I did two attempts before the send but I fell just after the first section: I was a bit nervous and I didnโt climb properly, but I also felt physically very strong. I knew i could do it. I took around 1 hr rest to focus and during the send I felt literally flowing: no pressure and not even a small mistake.
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