After the two first boulder, Janja Garnbret had 11 points (one top and one zone) and Stasa Gejo had one point. All the rest had scored zero although Petra Klingler seemed to have done the crux on the second boulder but the zone was further up. On the third boulder Stasa, with tape on four finger tips, was lucky and skillful using the palm on the sideway crux doing a very impressive top. Then also Akiyo Noguchi started to move doing the last two boulders but as Janja also did the third, she had secured the world champion title before she begun her not so focused last tries. Unfortunately, Miho Nonaka's shoulder injury did get worse and it will be very hard for her doing the Combined final on Sunday. 1. Janja Garnbret SLO 23 (Two Tops and three zones) 2. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 22 3. Stasa Gejo SRB 12 4. Jessica Pilz AUT 02 on 4 attempts 5. Miho Nonaka JPN 02 on 6 attempts 6. Petra Klingler SUI 00 Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr Janja is now the first female that has won the World Championship in both Lead and Boulder. During the last 19 World Cups in both Lead and Boulder, her worst result is #3.

Bassa Mawem was #2 in Speed but ranked #1 among the Combined participants. Although he was among the 20 % last in both Lead and Boulder he was #13 overall. In other words, you do not have to perform on a high standard in all three discipline. What counts is to be good in one. Another example of this is Marcin Dzienski who was second last, out of 87, in both Lead and Boulder but as he was #2 in Speed he was #22 overall. If he instead would have won in Speed who would have replaced Bassa as #13 overall. The example from the female showing that multiplication creates unfair and strange results is Alexandra Rudzinskis #10 overall after 65 * 58 * 1, out of 68. As it stands, she can actually move up to #8 position with bad results in bouldering for her opponents. Interim results

The route setters job to find the right level is super difficult, especially for the female as there are no official IFSC female route setters. However, quite often in Bouldering, the problems are too hard meanwhile almost never too easy. In other words, in general the boulders should be easier and it is not a problem if several tops all boulders. On the contrary, this is in general more fun both for the spectators as well as for the climbers. Further more, once they set parkour style starts, the route setters must make sure that they are not too hard. It would be better for everyone if IFSC increased to two zones. This would mean that everyone would get some score and then you could make the cruxes gradually harder. Imagine all the non-climbers watching the female boulder final on Eurosport. IFSC need to give the route setters guidelines so we can guarantee that the broad audience in Tokyo would not just leave the screen and the journalist writing critical reports. I would opt for telling the route setters that in a final, you get the highest credit if 3 or 4 guys topping each individual boulder. This would probably mean the winner would do three or four tops. Possibly, the number of tries will be used to separate two climbers with four tops. If we just see five tops and another six zones, the route setters should fail. With the same thinking, if we get more than 20 tops, they fail.

Updated Speed results for the Speed qualifications starting at 10.00 for the female and 14.00 for the male. Para Climbing finals are live-streamed 12.30-16.15 and 18.00-20.00 followed by the Speed Finals 20.00-21.00

Based on the Final results in Lead and Qualification results in Boulder and Lead, Miho Nonaka, Janja Garnbret and Jessica Pilz have secured a place in the Sunday final. Most likely Akiyo Noguchi and Petra Klingler will also be part of the final. First contenders for the last spot are Sol Sa and Stasa Geio but a sensational Boulder winner could change that. Mei Kotake does also have a chance if all results go her way which also goes for Anouck Jaubert and Anna Tsyganova who first need to win in Speed. It should be mentioned that the above are just speculations. Provisional Combined results that will be changed. Below the Speed Ranking among the once with best chances. #25 Miho Nonaka,#26 Laura Stöckler, #30 Claire Buhrfeind, #31 Sol Sa, #33 Petra Klingler, #34 Kyra Kondie, #35 Stasa Geio, #45 Akiyo Noguchi, #46 Brooke Raboutou, #47 Janja Garnbret, #54 Jain Kim, #58 Jessica Pilz, #59 Mei Kotake

Tomoa Narasaki has set a new very impressive record in Speed with 6.697. Runner-up among the non-speed specialists are Mickael Mawem 6.769, Jan Hojer 7.079 and Kokoro Fujii 7.283. Adam Ondra did 9.316 in his Speed debut. Complete results Yoshiyuki Ogata and Jongwon Chon did a false start in race one meaning they are also disqualified from the second race as well as getting any good Combined result. Also the world record holder as well as the World Cup leader, Danyil Boldyrev did get one false start and is out. (c) Eddie Fowke Jakob Schubert did a good race in the first race below 8 seconds but as he made a false start in his second race, he was also disqualified. Most probably he will still make it to the Combined final.

As Jongwon Chon and Yoshiyiki Ogata were disqualified in Speed, thew will not make the Combined Top-6 final. Jakob Schubert, who also was disqualified due to a false start in his second race, can still make the final but then he probably need to be Top-15 in the Boulder semi. Tomoa Narasaki has secured a final position and most probably also Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert. Kokoro Fujii, Jan Hojer, Mickael Mawem and Kai Harada need a good result opening up for Jernej Kruder or Alexsei Rubtsov if they win in Bouldering. Meichii Narasaki did not make the Boulder semi but with poor results by his opponents, he could still make it to the Combined final. In theory, also Yoshiyuki Ogata could make it if he wins and all others result on his side. For some reason Alex Megos did climb deliberately slow in Speed finishing last although he would have had chances for the Combined final with a fast time in Speed. Now he was overall #12. Provisional Combined results

Exciting Speed finals where Rexa Alipourzena won ahead of Bassa Mawem who neck to neck did miss the last foot hold and came 10 cm short to the buzzer. Replay Among the female Aleksandra Rudzinska won a Polish finale Anna Brozek. Other then that there were quite few false starts and also falls during the earlier rounds. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

Jernej Kruder, the Boulder World Cup winner 2018, known for his limited indoor training has taken it one step further. Directly after the Lead qualification he did Waldläufer 8c in Ötztal and two days ago he did Schimpansenbaby low 8B in Zillertal. In the 8a Combined ranking game, Jernej is #8. (c) Vladek Zumr

Chuck Odette has probably set a new standard for 62 year old's by doing Eulogy 8b+ in Maple Canyon, which originally was 8c. (c) Zoltan Papp "I managed a hallelujah send of Eulogy yesterday in warmer then I'd like conditions. I was tired and lethargic during warm ups. On my first attempt I moved too slowly and fell at the end of the crux of Millennium loaded with lactic acid. I waited 2 hours and had given up on red-pointing for the day. I decided to just go all out and let the chips fall where they may and be happy with a possible high point... maybe... I moved quickly through the Millennium portion (1st half of the route) and barely stuck the crux (V7/8). I tried resting at multiple knee-bars before taking on the Don't Mess With Texas crux (V6) which hits you at about 2/3 of the way out the Pipe Dream cave. It's a difficult crux to do when you're pumped senseless. I barely stuck it and had to ad-lib with a wild foot stab to a hold I've never used to stay on and complete this section. I was in total battle mode! I skipped a clip (3rd from last bolt) near the top to keep my upward/outward momentum going and somehow stuck the final dynamic crux... barely... two bolts from the top (the route contains 20+ bolts,.. I skip 4, typically). I knew at this point, I was pretty much done. I had one more big committing move above the last bolt, but hit it precisely due to intense adrenaline rush. Clipped the chains. Done. Sore as hell today, but incredibly happy."