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IFSC need to give route setters guidelines 
 

The route setters job to find the right level is super difficult, especially for the female as there are no official IFSC female route setters. However, quite often in Bouldering, the problems are too hard meanwhile almost never too easy. In other words, in general the boulders should be easier and it is not a problem if several tops all boulders. On the contrary, this is in general more fun both for the spectators as well as for the climbers.

Further more, once they set parkour style starts, the route setters must make sure that they are not too hard.

It would be better for everyone if IFSC increased to two zones. This would mean that everyone would get some score and then you could make the cruxes gradually harder.

Imagine all the non-climbers watching the female boulder final on Eurosport. IFSC need to give the route setters guidelines so we can guarantee that the broad audience in Tokyo would not just leave the screen and the journalist writing critical reports.

I would opt for telling the route setters that in a final, you get the highest credit if 3 or 4 guys topping each individual boulder. This would probably mean the winner would do three or four tops. Possibly, the number of tries will be used to separate two climbers with four tops.

If we just see five tops and another six zones, the route setters should fail. With the same thinking, if we get more than 20 tops, they fail.