12 September 2018
8b+ by Chuck Odette (62)
Chuck Odette has probably set a new standard for 62 year old's by doing Eulogy 8b+ in Maple Canyon, which originally was 8c. (c) Zoltan Papp
"I managed a hallelujah send of Eulogy yesterday in warmer then I'd like conditions. I was tired and lethargic during warm ups. On my first attempt I moved too slowly and fell at the end of the crux of Millennium loaded with lactic acid. I waited 2 hours and had given up on red-pointing for the day. I decided to just go all out and let the chips fall where they may and be happy with a possible high point... maybe...
I moved quickly through the Millennium portion (1st half of the route) and barely stuck the crux (V7/8). I tried resting at multiple knee-bars before taking on the Don't Mess With Texas crux (V6) which hits you at about 2/3 of the way out the Pipe Dream cave. It's a difficult crux to do when you're pumped senseless. I barely stuck it and had to ad-lib with a wild foot stab to a hold I've never used to stay on and complete this section. I was in total battle mode!
I skipped a clip (3rd from last bolt) near the top to keep my upward/outward momentum going and somehow stuck the final dynamic crux... barely... two bolts from the top (the route contains 20+ bolts,.. I skip 4, typically). I knew at this point, I was pretty much done. I had one more big committing move above the last bolt, but hit it precisely due to intense adrenaline rush. Clipped the chains. Done. Sore as hell today, but incredibly happy."
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Related
23 June 2009
8b (+) and 8b by Chuck Odette (54)
Chuck Odette (54) has done Ego Boost 8b (+) and Mexican Rodeo, 8b in Maple Canyon. Chuck started climbing when he turned 30, mainly for fun. A few years later he decided to try to start pushing his limits, meaning a 7c+ at 37, 8b+ at 44 and keeping it up.
24 June 2009
8b (+) si 8b realizate de Chuck Odette (54)
Chuck Odette la varsta de 54 de ani a facut traseele "Ego Boost" cotat 8b (+) si "Mexican Rodeo", 8b in Maple Canyon. Chuck a inceput sa se catere in jurul varstei de 30 de ani , mai mult pentru "fun". Cativa ani mai tarziu s-a hotarat sa isi testeze limitele, ajungand la 37 de ani sa faca 7c+ si laโฆ
21 September 2010
Pinoeers exploring new rock around the world
Here is a list of some of the unknown heros opening new climbs around the globe. (We will increase the the attention on spreading info of new climbs by pioneersโฆ
Related news
23 June 2009
8b (+) and 8b by Chuck Odette (54)
Chuck Odette (54) has done Ego Boost 8b (+) and Mexican Rodeo, 8b in Maple Canyon. Chuck started climbing when he turned 30, mainly for fun. A few years later he decided to try to start pushing his limits, meaning a 7c+ at 37, 8b+ at 44 and keeping it up.
24 June 2009
8b (+) si 8b realizate de Chuck Odette (54)
Chuck Odette la varsta de 54 de ani a facut traseele "Ego Boost" cotat 8b (+) si "Mexican Rodeo", 8b in Maple Canyon. Chuck a inceput sa se catere in jurul varstei de 30 de ani , mai mult pentru "fun". Cativa ani mai tarziu s-a hotarat sa isi testeze limitele, ajungand la 37 de ani sa faca 7c+ si laโฆ
21 September 2010
Pinoeers exploring new rock around the world
Here is a list of some of the unknown heros opening new climbs around the globe. (We will increase the the attention on spreading info of new climbs by pioneersโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ