12 September 2018
8b+ by Chuck Odette (62)
Chuck Odette has probably set a new standard for 62 year old's by doing Eulogy 8b+ in Maple Canyon, which originally was 8c. (c) Zoltan Papp
"I managed a hallelujah send of Eulogy yesterday in warmer then I'd like conditions. I was tired and lethargic during warm ups. On my first attempt I moved too slowly and fell at the end of the crux of Millennium loaded with lactic acid. I waited 2 hours and had given up on red-pointing for the day. I decided to just go all out and let the chips fall where they may and be happy with a possible high point... maybe...
I moved quickly through the Millennium portion (1st half of the route) and barely stuck the crux (V7/8). I tried resting at multiple knee-bars before taking on the Don't Mess With Texas crux (V6) which hits you at about 2/3 of the way out the Pipe Dream cave. It's a difficult crux to do when you're pumped senseless. I barely stuck it and had to ad-lib with a wild foot stab to a hold I've never used to stay on and complete this section. I was in total battle mode!
I skipped a clip (3rd from last bolt) near the top to keep my upward/outward momentum going and somehow stuck the final dynamic crux... barely... two bolts from the top (the route contains 20+ bolts,.. I skip 4, typically). I knew at this point, I was pretty much done. I had one more big committing move above the last bolt, but hit it precisely due to intense adrenaline rush. Clipped the chains. Done. Sore as hell today, but incredibly happy."
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