Seven guys from Japan Top-10 just confirm that their domination in the sport is about getting unique. If Japan would have been allowed to send 50 male, it just might have been that they would have had 12-15 in the semi final. Their strong positive trend and the reasons for this have been discussed in several articles, see above. Team spirit and playful training focusing on technical challenges during endless hours instead of hard physical training seems for fewer hours seems to be the recipe. My best example of this was from Munich in 2017. Immediately after the final, the whole Japanese team stepped up on the scene and started trying the boulders in their sneakers. This kept going for 45 minutes and everyone was screaming "Gamba" and laughing until they started bleeding. At the same time, the rest of the gang was already down in the basement for the after party. Several coaches have told me the same story and that goes also for the Cafe Craft guys. They told me that they have never ever seen guys playing around in their gym for so many hours. In the end they started to follow them around and even after seven hours, the spirit was the same. The extreme domination by Japan is a risk for IFSC and possibly it is time to start adapt to the Japanese mentality in order to catch up, juat like Adam Ondra and Jongwon Chon have done.

99boulders have updated their 9a+ stats and the graph shows how superior Adam Ondra is. In total, their are some 80 male and three female who have done at least one 9a+ or harder. Interestingly, you can then almost divide by four per each grade to get to one 9c in the top of the pyramid. Further more, this factor of 4 continues also on the 9a grade with some 350 guys having done at least one 9a. The most popular 9a+' are La Rambla with 26 ascents, followed by Papichulo 19 and Biographie 17.

Leon Fraunholz and Giani Clement have both done their first 8C, The story of 2 worlds Cresciao. (c)Felix Hoffman and (c) Hannes Kutza Leon: "Last year I have finished school and since then I am travelling around with my van. In case of that time is not a limited factor while projecting, thats the main reason why I took the decision to try something harder. Since I stopped competing I put my focus on rockclimbing. From that point on I am trying to climb outdoors as much as possible. Giani and I tried Story very often together so it was extra special that we have sent it in the same session, congrats again Giani!" Giani: "I tried the Dagger jan/Feb 2018 and scored after 10 sessions on it at the end of February 2018. In December 2019 I ventured to the sitstart. It took me 12 sessions to link the start moves into the dagger and in total about 35 sessions within 4 months to complete it. I tried the Boulder especially with my friend Martin Keller. Together we worked out the Boulder and motivated each other."

Lucien Martinez has made the second repeat, after Adam Ondra, of Chris Sharma's Three Degrees of Separation 9a+ at Céüse. The name relates to three extreme dynos linking the route. Video of Lucien working the dynos. (c) Jan Novak

Janja Garnbret was the only one to do all five boulders and in the other group Kyra Kondie won. Jessica Pilz was #21 and other big name missing the Top-20 semifinal were; Brooke Raboutou #29, Margo Hayes #37 and Ashima Shiraishi #70. Complete results

SINGING ROCK upgraded their collection of sport harnesses. New harness ONYX undertook some changes like thinner webbing, smaller buckles, more durable materials and new color of outer fabric. On all harnesses more durable material is used to reinforce and increase lifetime of tie-in points and it was added rear haul loop with a load capacity 30 kg. The webbing on the leg loops was reduced from 20 to 16 mm extending in the padding of the leg loop to 40 mm. This ensures maximum comfort due to the force distribution over a larger area. Thinner webbing is complemented by a new, narrower Rock & Lock patented stainless steel buckle. Ergonomic construction and flat profile of ONYX harness combines maximum comfort, low weight (335 g) and unlimited movement. The braided gear loops are shaped to facilitate handling and to provide enough space for climbing gear needed at sport crag. ONYX harness is high-end climbing harness for sport routes or wherever you want to climb light.

Katie Lamb, who recently was #3 in the USA Lead Nationals, has done three 7C+' and two 8A's in Joe's Valley, Prince Of Thieves and Pagan Poetry. (c) Kai Webler "I pushed my personal bar higher by learning the "climb free" mentality from my friends in Joe's Valley last week. To climb free means to let go of expectations, release your inhibitions, attack with calm and with fury, and hold to dreams. To train I use the Moonboard and campus board (speed exercise and pull exercise) 5 times a week, and always am practicing to "climb free". I also use the Mr. Stairmaster machine to strengthen my legs and mind. Climbing free even on the endless stairs!"

James Webb has, beside two 8C+', done his 18th 8C, Der mit dem fels tanzt in Chironico. "Maybe low end? But a bit harder than Insanity. Nice one Martin!" The ones having done most 8C and harder are Daniel Woods with 25+ and Dai Kokamada with 20+. When it comes to flashes, Webb is superior with 115 8A and harder.

Alex Waterhouse has done his first 9a, The Fly in Rumney. Insta video. The 8 meter route was put up by Dave Graham and has been both top-roped as well as soloed as an 8B/+. "Hung these holds so many times, dream to have finished it off. V13 boulder. Was ready to give it low 14 but moved my left hand 0.5cm left and the first move went from

Isabelle Faus, who previously has done three 8B+', has done her 19th 8B, Primitivo Stand in Valle Bavona in just two sessions. Isa is the 8A ranking leader. "Amazing line, was hard for me, super psyched. " (c) Hannes Kutza "I’m not sure what’s next, back to Colorado in a week. For now I’m just enjoying my time off, trying hard when I get super psyched on something. But I’m excited for the alpine season at home and then Africa!"