6 April 2019

Team spirit and playfullness keys for Japan domination

Seven guys from Japan Top-10 just confirm that their domination in the sport is about getting unique. If Japan would have been allowed to send 50 male, it just might have been that they would have had 12-15 in the semi final. Their strong positive trend and the reasons for this have been discussed in several articles, see above. Team spirit and playful training focusing on technical challenges during endless hours instead of hard physical training seems for fewer hours seems to be the recipe. My best example of this was from Munich in 2017. Immediately after the final, the whole Japanese team stepped up on the scene and started trying the boulders in their sneakers. This kept going for 45 minutes and everyone was screaming "Gamba" and laughing until they started bleeding. At the same time, the rest of the gang was already down in the basement for the after party. Several coaches have told me the same story and that goes also for the Cafe Craft guys. They told me that they have never ever seen guys playing around in their gym for so many hours. In the end they started to follow them around and even after seven hours, the spirit was the same. The extreme domination by Japan is a risk for IFSC and possibly it is time to start adapt to the Japanese mentality in order to catch up, juat like Adam Ondra and Jongwon Chon have done.
7 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ