Lorenzo Bogliacino, who last year sent three 9a+’, has done Autoengaño (9a), Siempre libres (9a) and Borracho primerizo (9a) in Rodellar.

”So grateful to be back in my happy place! And before the rain came, thanks to the perfect conditions, I was able to start the season in the best possible way, getting back to fighting in my favorite style and climbing some routes I had in my minds since last year...but I hope these are just the beginning of a long journey!”

So what is the next plan for the journey?
Basically all routes in Rodellar🤣 without joking I leave some projects in 9a in El Delfin sector for later and maybe some harder one!

I will be in Rodellar for one week each month or a little more. My girlfriend live and work there so I also have the opportunity to go sometimes for two days!

Ruth Schluga, with six 8b+’ under her belt, has completed Janja (8c) in Falegnameria ”Aesthetic, natural, and incredibly good. This route felt like it was meant for me as my first of the grade.✨” (c) Daniel Rogger

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
Climbing in Falegnameria, this line caught me right away — it just inspired me. My boyfriend told me it was one of the most beautiful routes of the grade — technical, aesthetic, and perfectly my style: no crazy stopper move, but a mix of power‑endurance, precision and thoughtful technical movement. I felt ready to try it and immediately made progress. Over three weekends I fell high up several times — once even on the last move. But I knew I could do it. During my send go I told myself: “The route doesn’t know it’s 8c. Just enjoy the climb and don’t be nervous.” That relaxed mindset made all the difference. I climbed calmly, focused — and suddenly I was at the anchor. My first 8c. Yay!

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing in 2016 at 16 and immediately fell in love with it. In 2019 I climbed my first 8a, which I thought would be my lifetime goal. I never did competitions or had a coach; climbing was always personal for me — solving puzzles on the rock, learning from every attempt. What matters most is the connection to the route. When the mental side is right, my body can go further than I ever imagined.

Zhao Yicheng, who last month set a new Speed World Record of 4.58 seconds in his senior debut, claimed the Speed World Cup title in Wujiang. In the semifinal, he blazed up the slightly overhanging 15-meter 6b+ wall in 4.54 seconds, setting yet another world record. Here’s the 16-year-old’s incredible record-breaking run — and once again, no celebration whatsoever.

Pepa Šindel, with 15 routes 9a and beyond under his belt, has sent Maitre Vauban und der Basilisk (9a) in Höllental. The 18-year-old repeated Chiroptera (9a+) in 2022 which has still not seen a third ascent.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
The first time I tried Maitre Vauban und der Basilisk was last summer. I gave it 3 tries when it was 30°C in the shade, and I hadn’t trained for 2 months, so you can imagine how it went :) But I knew I would return because the line is really beautiful, and I’m surprised it has so few repetitions.

The route is very endurance-based, with 5 boulders and 4 kneebar rests in between. The crux is right below the anchor, after you’ve already climbed 30 meters to get there. It’s a really strange sequence revolving around a small sidepull and getting over the lip with poor high feet, then bumping to 2 small crimps before reaching the final jug.

I did it second go, not remembering any beta from last year, and I also did Versehrtendachl (8c+), but I was too weak and tired to finish the second pitch, which is a 9a.

Emil Abrahamsson, who sent The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) back in 2023, has now added Biologico (9a) in Arco to his list of sends. The Swede began his climbing journey a bit overweight at 158 cm and 75 kg and has since grown to 183 cm and 82 kg, becoming a motivating example for everyday climbers. His YouTube channel now counts 342K subscribers and around 270 videos since launching in 2018.

What is your climbing background?
I began climbing the year I turned 16, which will be 14 years ago this year. My obsessive nature led to decent progress during my first few years of climbing, resulting in our first interview nearly 9 years ago after I climbed one of my first few 8B/V13s after about 5 years of climbing. Over the years I've predominantly been a boulderer, with the occasional sport climbing excursion here and there. Between 2020 and 2024, I juggled competing for the Swedish National Team with rock climbing and my YouTube channel. Spending 40-50 hours editing videos and another 20-25 hours training each week, plus adding YouTube filming sessions, was quite taxing on my body. I realized it was a bit much and decided to cut back on competitions because I was always either overtrained or overworked. Ultimately, that resulted in a long streak of injuries, and I stopped trying to perform at my highest level between 2024 until the beginning of 2026. Don't get me wrong, I've been training hard and have climbed stuff I thought were difficult in that time, but I put performance goals on the back burner in favour of my health and to focus on the YouTube channel.

How have you progressed over the years and what is your progress philosophy?
My progression has been pretty steady, although strictly based on grades I guess not quite as much. I have increased my level a little bit every year, leading me to climb 8C/V15 as my hardest. I try not to use grades as a definitive form of measurement, although I find grades incredibly fun to chase. Grades are the equivalent of leveling up in a video game. It's fun to level up, you can be psyched about it, but they do not tell your full story about how good you are at playing the game. As an example, sometimes people will call me a "9a" climber or "8C boulderer", but truth be told I don't climb harder than 7A/V6. I say that because if you put me on a slab with pebble feet that's probably the grade I max out at. I believe the best way to progress is to stay open to how much there is to learn as a climber, at any difficulty. PS. I projected a V4 when I visited Joshua Tree last year. Didn't do it.

What is most important for being a relatively big climber?
I'm 82kg/180lbs, which I guess constitutes relatively big. That being said, it's easy to fall into the trap that being lighter is important for climbing, because if I added a 20kg weight vest then climbing would be harder, naturally. However, if you take away 10kg from my body I'd struggle with all kinds of health problems and feel fatigued, weak and overall bad. I know this from experience, I should add. So, the most important thing for me is remembering what climbing well and feeling strong is like for my body. I can rarely use other people's beta, and I have to analyse what my body can do well and adapt to that.

Can you tell us more about Biologico and the process behind?
I had quite a rough year 2025 health and injury wise, and in August last year an orthopedic surgeon even told me I should consider retiring from climbing, as he suspected I had arthritis in my shoulder. I waited anxiously for my MRI results for over a month. That turned into quite a soul searching month for me, where I realised more than ever just how much I love the ability to climb. Once the doctor received the results, it turned out his initial thoughts were severely exaggerated; in fact, it just seemed to be that a muscle had checked out, forcing the surrounding tissue to compensate. This injury prevented me from doing as much as a single pull up, so between July - November I focused on just recovering and climbing with a straight arm. I managed my first pull-up in about 5 months in the middle of November, and I was very grateful for that pull-up. Quite quickly after that I could go fully into training mode, and I really wanted to dedicate myself to a new goal in climbing. That ended up being my lead climbing ability.

I moved to Arco in December for a few months to be closer to nature but also for this goal. I had spent some time in Flatanger the previous year and although I ended up mostly working out how to place a kneebar and not really climbing any routes I learned a lot from that experience. After an encounter with the first ascensionist of Biologico (and legend of our sport) Adam Ondra, he recommended the route to me. It was a perfect recommendation, and I did all the moves on the first session and got it in three overlapping links on the second session. However, piecing all of this together took many more sessions in the end. Throughout the process I learnt a lot about effeciency and how to recover on the wall, and I'm very grateful for my time on the route.

Biologico was an interesting process because I had very little experience with what it takes to climb routes close to my limit before this. I'd tried some harder routes before, but never adapted my training specifically for lead climbing for an extended period. Climbing individual parts and climbing a whole route are very different things. Thinking about it now, outdoors I've only done 10 routes between 8a-8b+, and the majority of those were done in 2017 before bouldering completely took over my climbing focus. It took me a while to figure out how to combine my bouldery style of climbing with lead climbing, but once I did, the route came together and felt incredibly satisfying to climb. However, I've never climbed an 8c or 8c+, so I guess that's next!

Neo Suzuki qualified for the final based on countback, having won the qualification round. Watching all seven finalists from the golden chair, he did not need to get nervous, as all five scored at least five holds lower. Earlier this year, he won both the Japanese and Asian Championships.

“I’m satisfied with the result, but my performance in the final wasn’t good enough for me. I need to train harder. I want to get three gold medals [in the World Championship], and all podiums at the World Climbing Series this year.”

Janja Garnbret seemed to be in full control when she suddenly fell and then Annie Sanders tied her score with just a couple seconds left, meaning she won as she was the only girl topping out the semi.

“I knew it was pretty close. I kept looking down at the time and waiting it out as I had to try and get back as much back as possible, and I’m glad I did. I wasn’t entirely sure I finished in the time limit, and wasn’t sure if I had won or not, but once I saw the score I realised and got super overwhelmed. It was a slow and static route and honestly, I was a bit nervous, so I was over gripping a lot. But like I said, I got a bit back right at the top and it paid off.”

Moritz Welt, with 13 routes 9a and beyond under his harness, only in Frankenjura, has done Unplugged (9a). (c) Daoud Sadlowski

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I am currently having my annual spring home season. As I have done most of the established routes in Frankenjura I'm interested in, I am recently more focused on developing new lines here. But as most of these are so hard that I am not ready to give send tries yet, I need to try something else in the meantime that feels actually doable :)

Luckily there are still a few classics missing on my ticklist, and Unplugged was one of them, maybe even the most prominent one. It's the second 9a in Frankenjura (FA by Markus Bock 2003), so notably the first one after AD, which was established 12 years earlier! I had tried it before but was a bit intimidated to try again, because there was this last boulder that felt quite hard for me. Turns out this season I was finally ready! Took me 2 sessions to do the top crux from the left (which makes it a hard 8c) and 3 more to finally link everything together from the Unplugged start! :)

Andrea Lostia di Santa Sofia, who did his first 9a in March, has made the first repeat of The Watchtower (9a) in Lecorci. ”The queen of Ulassai, hardest line I ever climbed.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I started trying this route last september, after sending the last 8c+ in Ulassai I wanted to look for something harder, this route caught my eye. Initially I wasn’t sure the route was possible, nobody had done it and the wall looked blank. The only reason I didn’t give up is because this feeling reminded me of the first time I tried ‘Fear Is The Mind Killer’ in Lecorci, which I then first ascended, I knew not to trust the part of me that told me it wasn’t possible.

In november my friend Giorgio Tomats came to visit and we tried the route together, we worked the moves and found solutions, in that trip we also made some FA’s in Isili such as Terzo Tempo 8c+ and Free Bronx 8c+, but The Watchtower was still too hard.

Giorgio decided to come back to sardinia just to send it, and he did, claiming the FA to Ulassai’s first 9a, during this time I kept trying the route, always falling on the same move from the ground.

It was extremely frustrating and I considered giving up multiple times, which had never happened to me before on a route. Just when I was about to abandon all hope, I stuck the move and fought my way to the top, battling numb toes and pump.

This is my second and hardest 9a after Estado Critico, and it’s very important to me as Estado Critico was the first 9a climbed by a sardinian, and The Watchtwer is the first time it happens in Sardinia.

The route is a prow towering above Lecorci, it follows a black stripe. The hard section starts after a kneebar with a phisical boulder followed right after by an extremely tricky 2 move boulder, where I fell for months coming from the ground. Stuck the move there is a third and final boulder on small crimps leading you to a rest before the final, potentially heartbreaking, easier section.

Marco Müller, who in February sent his first 8C+, has done Power of Now Direct (8C) in Magic Wood.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
Power of Now (8B+) was at the top of my list to try this spring. Surprisingly, it went down in the first session. I then tried the first move a bit and knew the direct start was possible, but my skin was already worn and the power was fading.

It took me three more sessions to climb it from the direct start. It only adds one move, but for me the launch into the second jump felt much harder, as I couldn’t quite hit the holds perfectly. Plus, I felt more tired for the last jump coming from the direct start, where I fell a couple of times.