Emil Abrahamsson (20) from overweight to almost worldclass in five years

Emil Abrahamsson started climbing when he was 15 years old, being quite overweight at 158 cm and 75 kg. Two years later he climbed outdoors for the first time and during his second outdoor year he did several 8A's. Now he is an 183 cm powerhouse at 77 kg doing 8B without any specific training and twice he has been #4 in the Swedish Nationals. "In 2017, I started to focus on something I had skipped before, crimping. I actually began crimping just last year, before that I refused as I was afraid of getting injured. I have always been strong at pinching and grabbing slopers and slowly I am also building up my crimping strength. Finally I feel I can increase my crimping strength without being afraid of injuries. I have noticed that this has improved my climbing a lot." What's interesting is it that he has not had a trainer or done any structured or organized complimentary training. His focus is outdoor and repeating as many problems as possible instead of just going for the hardest projects. "I climb as much I can but I am quite limited by my university studies and I feel as though my body needs to rest a lot to prevent injury. During good weeks I can climb 4-6 days a week but if it is good weather then I'll just be climbing outdoors. I have not done so much gym training before this year, which is when I began doing some core training which helps a lot. I try to do it after every indoor session but nothing structured yet." In regards to being asked questions about having been a super talent and if he had been very successful in any other sport when he started training, then he explained that he had been overweight! "I have never thought of myself as being very talented. This is something I like a lot so my body has just adapted to it. I am always focused for climbing and the sport is something I want to continue with forever. The feeling of sitting on top of a boulder after a send with a cup of coffee is just the very best thing. Nowadays, this is my focus and the absolutely best way to get away from stress and the ordinary life." Erik Carlsson video from when Emil did an 8B which he thought to be 8A+.