Toni Lamprecht, one of the best climbers in the world since the mid 90-ies, has done another 8C FA in Kochel, Real Absurdistan. The video shows that in the end it was a night head lamp send. In total the 49-year-old, who is having one of his best years, has put up some 60 climbs graded 8c and 8B respectively. More info to come.

Hannes Huch has presented an article saying he thinks Said Belhaj did lie about his ascent of Action Directe 9a last year. The German journalist previously working together with Cafe Craft, describes that several circumstances, like Said not beeing cooperative, have made him come to this conclusion. However, Hannes does not present any evidence what so ever. I think that the media could ask for details and some kind of cooperation with the media in regards "world records" like when Bernabe Fernandez did the FA of Chilam Balam in 2003, calling it 9b+. When we talk world-class ascents, a grade pyramid is good enough as a backup. Going further down the list talking 9a's, I do not think the media should start asking for proof etc. We have to respect the freedom of climbing. Talking about Said Belhaj, I do think Hannes Huch is pushing it to far. Belhaj age 37 has been a the top climber for at least 15 years regularly climbing with the best climbers out there. He has done several 9a's, the latest last month, and Papichula 9a+.

Ryuichi Murai, who last month did theFA of United 8C+, has done an impressive one day ascent of Dreamtime 8C (B+) in Cresciano. Last week he did another classic, The Story of Two Worlds 8C. In total, Murai has done a dozen 8C and harder which makes him just about Top-5 in the world. (c) Keita Watabe "I took about 2 hours to send Dreamtime. First, I practiced each moves a few times. Then on my 4th try from start, I could climb it. The first part of this line was especially hard, and a crux was a dyno in the middle part. Therefore, the important thing was how I could smoothly perform the first part and make the dyno successful."

Moritz Welt, #3 in the Combined ranking game, has done Ramon Puiblanque's La Reina Mora in Siurana. He put it up as an 8c but nowadays most think it deserves 9a. (c) Julia Cassou "Siurana target #2 and my ultimate Spain trip goal! Wanted to do this one since I stood the first time below this perfect line two years ago! So happy to finish this in only 4 more sessions this time!" The 18-year-old is on a three months road trip in Spain, mainly in Margalef and Siurana. His next project is possible First Ley 9a+. "Sometimes I'd be happy about a little more comfort but I enjoy it. Also I have to save money. I will go back around christmas. Maybe then first some Frankenjura bouldering and making up some plans for spring."

Climbing is growing and especially indoors and this trend will continue and in 2030, we just might be 50 % more climbers. Experienced climbers fear that this will dramatically increase access problems and create ques on their routes but I do not agree on that. We already know that few of the new generation gym climbers are interested to climb outdoors regularly. One reason for that is that you do not get a good upper body physical exercise spending 90 min in the nature challenging routes graded 4 to 6a. Furthermore, it is normally more dangerous and painful to climb outdoors and you will not perform in accordance with your gym grades. At the same time, we will increase the number of developed routes with possibly 25 %. This means a greater possibility to spread out instead of queuing up on the nearest routes and boulders you already have done a dozen times. Access problems are already a fact but as a big portion of the outdoor climbers will kids and climbing families, landowners and municipalities will have greater acceptance. As it is also expected that the new generation climbers are more willing to spend money in comparison to the old "dirt-bag" generation, tourism authorities etc will see climbers as a target group. Other things likely to happen - Adam Ondra has done 9c+ and it projecting 10a - Olympic medals in four disciplines including DWS - Total Asian dominance on the comp scene - Airpads making it possible to land from 8 meters - Route setting through holds with lights indoors - Development of 2 - 4 graded bolted routes/boulder - Athlete live-streaming with drones - Female, youngsters and seniors catching up - 33 % wearing helmets - GPS climb search for routes and boulders

karoline sinnhuber has done her ninth 8A+ in 2019, Drischiebl right in Zillertal. (c) Fabian Leu The 24-year-old former competition boulderer is having her best year ever and is #4 in the 8a ranking game. "The reason why this is my best year so far, might be that I just concentrate on the outdoor stuff and don‘t have to train comp style anymore and of course I spend much more time outdoors than the years before. Might sound weird, but I also spend more time in the gym for training than I did during my comp career."

Stefano Carnati, who previoulsy has done eleven routes 9a and harder, has done his first 8C, Dreamtime in Cresciano. "Yoo! Did the stand one month ago (which I tried a few days over the past years) and it took me 2 more sessions to finish it off. 8B+, 8C, I'm definitely not the one who can tell, but who cares with such a line! So stoked!" The classical Fred Nicole boulder was put up as the first 8C in the world which later was downgraded but since a hold broke most think it should be up there again. More important is the stunning line and all the 21 who have star rated it has given it three stars like Stefano!

Henning Wang, who has done three 8c+' in Villanueva del Rosario, has helped us out with the report of Sindre Saether doing Chilam Balam 9a+ (b) at that crag. It was put up by Berrnabe Fernandez suggesting it as the first 9b+ back in 2003 and has later been repeated by a handfull who all have down graded it. "In total Sindre invested 85 climbing days over 3 years in Chilam Balam either working parts, doing link-ups consisting of parts of the route, building fitness on the route after long forced breaks or having attempts on the route. In the end, he got to the last bolt of the route 15 times before sending and climbed the first 8c+ part 35 times. The time was spent mainly mid-winter (between November and February) in a lot of cold, wet and humid conditions. In 2018 he only got to try from the ground 5 days as the route was more or less constantly wet despite spending somewhere between 3-4 months in Villanueva that year. Sindre is in Norway known for his bigwall achievements, having freeclimbed a lot of hard aidlines in the Trollwall (most unrepeated), as well as Tsunami A4 (now 8a+) on Kjerag, as well as many other walls in Norway and around the world. That is not to say that Sindre isn´t an accomplished sport climbers as well, but since he isn´t on any social media and doesn't say much about what he does most people know very little about what he has climbed. If my count is correct Chilam marks his 6th route 9a or harder, the hardest before Chilam being La Novena Enmienda in Santa Linya in 2016."

1. Tomoa Narasaki JPN - Janja Garnbret SLO 2. Adam Ondra CZE - Miho Nonaka JPN 3. Jakob Schubert AUT - Akiyo Noguchi JPN 4. Kai Harada JPN - Shauna Coxey GBR 5. Bassa Mawem FRA - Alexandra Miroslaw POL 6. Alex Megos GER - Jessica Pilz AUT 7. Alberto Gines Lopez ESP - Julia Chanourdie FRA 8. Jan Hojer GER - Petra Klingler SUI It was nice to see that Adam Ondra had made some significant improvements in Speed but most probably, Tomoa Narasaki will be second or third in Speed so that is why he is #1. Furthermore, two Speed climbers are listed as it is almost 100 % that at least one will make it to the final but it could be anyone. It should also be mentioned that currently just 14 males and females have qualified. The remaining six spots go to the five Continental Champions and the next best respecting the country quota in the World Championship. Most interesting is if Jain Kim or Chaehyon Seo get the ticket in the Asia Championship. If so, especially Seo would have a chance for the podium.