4 December 2019

Chilam Balam 9a+ (b) by Sindre Saether

Henning Wang, who has done three 8c+' in Villanueva del Rosario, has helped us out with the report of Sindre Saether doing Chilam Balam 9a+ (b) at that crag. It was put up by Berrnabe Fernandez suggesting it as the first 9b+ back in 2003 and has later been repeated by a handfull who all have down graded it. "In total Sindre invested 85 climbing days over 3 years in Chilam Balam either working parts, doing link-ups consisting of parts of the route, building fitness on the route after long forced breaks or having attempts on the route. In the end, he got to the last bolt of the route 15 times before sending and climbed the first 8c+ part 35 times. The time was spent mainly mid-winter (between November and February) in a lot of cold, wet and humid conditions. In 2018 he only got to try from the ground 5 days as the route was more or less constantly wet despite spending somewhere between 3-4 months in Villanueva that year. Sindre is in Norway known for his bigwall achievements, having freeclimbed a lot of hard aidlines in the Trollwall (most unrepeated), as well as Tsunami A4 (now 8a+) on Kjerag, as well as many other walls in Norway and around the world. That is not to say that Sindre isn´t an accomplished sport climbers as well, but since he isn´t on any social media and doesn't say much about what he does most people know very little about what he has climbed. If my count is correct Chilam marks his 6th route 9a or harder, the hardest before Chilam being La Novena Enmienda in Santa Linya in 2016."
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