Lukas Sager, who did third 9a this spring, has done The famous gem (9a) in La Saume. A mental reset turned struggle into success, revealing the mind as climbing’s true crux.

Can you tell us more about the process behind the ascent?
Four weeks ago, I was barely climbing 8a. Not because my body couldn't keep up physically, but because my mind was somewhere else. Distracting thoughts. To give you an idea: you climb, you clip, you breathe... and at the same time, you try to solve equations in your head. So we went to Verdon for a week and a half. Climbing easy routes, breathing, coming back to the present moment. Refocusing before trying harder.

In our sport, we often talk about the mental aspect. We say it's crucial. More important than the physical, even. But how many people really work on it? And above all, how many know how to do it properly? Today, if someone asks me, ‘What's your weakest muscle?’ I answer: the brain.

The process of The Famous Gem reminded me of this with surgical brutality. From the first climb, I knew I had what it takes to do it. I wanted to prove it to myself. But this route... It's everything I don't know how to do: short, physical, on a 45° panel, two cruxes with heels, a style I've always avoided. It took me six sessions, six falls with my hand in the final hold, two steaks, and a good dose of frustration... to finally clip the chain.

As for the grade: I'm not sure. It's my fourth 9a. If you put on a knee pad, it's probably easier. But in the end, who cares? route taught me. And above all, everything I still have to build, up there, in my head. Thanks to my friends for believing in me, for pushing me, for encouraging me. And above all, thanks to “Mélissa Le Nevé”. For the good questions, the ones that scratch, that shake you up, that make you think. The ones that help you move forward — not just in climbing.

At the Youth World Championships in Finland, Team Japan delivered a dominant performance, claiming three of the four available gold medals. In the Boys' U-17 category, Japan swept the podium, with Ryusei Hamada standing out as a clear leader across all three rounds. The other gold medalists included Yamada Kodai, Murakoshi Kaho, and China's Li Meini. Full results here.

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen has had a great tip to Val Daone and Gottardo sending five 8B’s and Adularia (8C) (Insta video). The 38-year-old is at an all-time high score, having sent a dozen boulders 8B and beyond, including one flash the last five months.

Can you tell us more about the trip and the 8C ascent?
We were on a 3-week summer trip between Val Daone and Gottardo. Both are beautiful places. Daone is a bit better for the holiday vibes, a bit warmer, and the Italian vibes are always chill. Gottardo is a bit better for hardcore climbing in the middle of summer. Combining those places was super fun.

Last year Adularia was on the top of my list, but gave me a proper ass whipping. Could do nothing with it. So, for this year, I did not even plan to try it. But then came some classic Alpine weather, lots of rain pockets combined with wind and colder temperatures. For some reason, it all felt so good from the first touches. The race was on!

Getting really close on day two, but out of nowhere it started raining and we had to bail 🤬 Only two days left. The last day looked grim on the forecast, but I also needed a rest day to recover both skin and body. I decided to gamble a bit, ignore the sore muscles and give it my all. All moves were dailed. Knew exactly what I had to do. Did a few moves one last time as a warmup and went for it. It did not feel as good as the day before. But giving up was not an option. Had to dig deep for that last far move to the finishing jug...all or nothing. Luckily, the gamble paid off 🥳

Dylan Chuat, who has done five 9a and harder the last five months, has sent Change P1 (9a+) in Flatanger, giving it a personal 9a grade. Now he is working on Move (9b).

”I find the crux super interesting and really fun to climb (nothing to do with what I expected). Originally, without a knee pad, Adam's [Ondra] method was a real 8B+ block and looked super traumatic for the shoulders. Now, with the new method, I would say it's more of a 7C block. So yes, the way is clearly easier today. For me, it's more of a mid-range 9a than a 9a+. But whatever, it was really a great time to climb this route!”

Can you tell us more about the new beta and what about Move?
The new methods aren't mine — Change was more of a side project for me. I didn’t really put in many tries, so I didn’t work much on beta. These “new” methods have actually been around for several years already; it’s just that, in my opinion, some of the repeaters after Adam weren’t completely honest when they said it didn’t change the grade, haha.

As for Move, I haven’t been able to get in many sessions because the conditions have been awful, but I did manage a really big link yesterday, so it’s looking promising. That said, I don’t have much time left.

Laura Rogora, who the last week sent four 9a’s and onsighted Ultimate Sacrifice (8c+) in Gorges du Loup, finished her trip by onsighting 7 pm JP chaud (8c) and redpointing Asai XXL (8c+), Tango to nik (8c+) and Total eclatch (8c+). (c) Alberto della Guida

Can you tell us more about your 8c+ onsight and your feelings during the send?
Actually, the idea came to me after the first few days at Gorges du Loup. I had spotted this route that adds a 10-move 8b to an 8c. The original plan was to try the 8c onsight, but then I thought it was worth trying the direct start, and if I fell lower down, I could still attempt the 8c onsight.

However, I knew that since endurance is my strength, if I managed to get through the intense first part, I'd have a real shot at it. On the first 8b part, I was close to falling twice, but I was quite relaxed because I knew I had nothing to lose. I imagined that section would be the hardest for me, as the route is not my style—short and chipped.

When I got through that section, I started to feel a bit anxious because I knew I had a real chance. But I climbed well up to the final crux, where I missed some holds on the right and messed up the beta. Luckily, I realized it in time and managed to go back and change the beta.

How was the route reading and how much did you follow the plan?
I studied the first 8b part from the ground and I almost followed my plan, after that I couldn't see so much.

We’re pleased to announce our collaboration with the British Mountaineering Council (BMC): From now on, all official national climbing competitions in Great Britain will be managed through the Vertical-Life Result Service. Registrations for the Youth Climbing Series opened on Monday at bmc.results.info, with over 1000 registrations in just a few hours. You'll be able to follow along the live scores starting September 13th, when the series kicks off.

You can find all information and results for BMC competitions here: BMC Result Service

Lorenzo Bogliacino, with four 9a+’ to his name, has done La Gioconda (9a) in Rodellar. (c) Eduardo Ruano

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
One of the best and physically demanding route I have ever ever done! 40 metre total roof. Hat off to 'Primo' for bolting this masterpiece and the other great routes in a natural way, preserving the rock and its shape!

I did the first pitch in June; in these holidays, after giving up my old project in Piscineta (Cosi se Arete (9a), too crimpy for me in summer conditions), I checked and send the second part starting with an 8a, but doing the whole route was more challenging! I had to take off a shoe in an upsidedown kneebar because of the pain! The 8a.nu comments by Primo and Gonzalo are just perfect: "Purostyle" and "With a thousand knees that leave your body destroyed."

Nolwen Berthier and Eva Hammelmüller have climbed Marcellus Wallace (8c) in Briançon. Nolwen has previously sent one 9a+ and Eva has done 13 routes 8c+ or 9a. (c) Fred DG

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Berthier: For a while, I had this line filed under “out of reach” — literally and figuratively. But this summer, no more long routes on nice crimps. It’s time to become a real woman and switch to Brutal Sector.

Crazy but true, after some creative beta, I managed to send the cruxy section… only to fall on the so-called “easy but reachy” part. Luckily, the good vibes at the crag (and precise footwork — see the picture) did their job, and a few tries later, I clipped the chains. Stoked to tick this one — and maybe even open the female count on it too.

Hammelmüller did the second female ascent one week later. ”5 tries this year, but tried it the year before - cool, dynamic moves with an amazing crux move including a difficult heel hook!”

Maël Musson, who two years ago, at age 17, did his first 9a, has sent Valhalla (9a) in Flatanger, in just six sessions. (c) Christelle Lafont

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Valhalla is a 70-metre route through the Flatanger cave. It consists of two parts. An approach of around 35m: Odin's eye a classic 8c+ in the cave. Then comes a second part worth around 8c or 8c+ according to previous climbers to have done the route (more like 8c in my opinion). My aim was to do two routes on this trip: Valhalla and Thor's Hammer, another 9a After checking both, I knew that Valhalla suited me perfectly and that I could hope to do it quickly. So I concentrated mainly on Valhalla to start.

I tried the second part first, as I'd done a few try on the first last year and knew it wouldn't give me too much trouble. During my first two sessions I found some great betas that enabled me to do the cruxes of the second part without forcing myself too much. Now I had to wedge the first part so I could try it from the ground. In 4 attempts, I managed to pass the 8c+ approach. All I had to do was fight my way to the end. And two sessions later I put in this incredible try where everything went perfectly. I did the route still feeling good, still feeling in control. It was a really incredible feeling! I didn't think I could do this route in just 6 days, so I'm really happy. The good thing is that now I still have plenty of time to hope to make Thor's Hammer!

Laura Rogora has set a new female standard by onsighting Ultimate Sacrifice (8c+) in Gorges du Loup. And as a side note, the Italian also did her fourth 9a during the last three days, Trip tik tonik (9a), on her third go.

Including three previous 8c onsights, the 24-year-old is a contender having the third best onsight track record after Adam Ondra and Alex Megos.