Matteo Marrocchi completes Flow State (8C)

Matteo Marrocchi has repeated Pietro Vidi’s Flow State (8C) in Val Daone. At age ten he stopped climbing after he had sent two 8a’s and won two Italian Youth Championships.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and also say something about your climbing background?
My climbing journey is quite unique. I first started climbing when I was just six years old, but by the time I turned ten I had already shifted my focus to another sport. For many years I stayed away from climbing, until, at the age of twenty, the spark reignited. From there, my progress was fast—within only three years of returning, I climbed my first 9a lead route and reached several finals in the Italian Cup.

More recently, I’ve begun dedicating myself to outdoor bouldering. A few days days ago I managed to send my first 8C boulder in surprisingly little time. The line is stunning: it consists of two 8B sections separated by a decent rest, with everything hanging on the very last move. All of this is set in the magical, almost fairytale-like atmosphere of Valdaone.

I see you did 8a’s already at age ten. How come you stopped being such a talent?
I was so young. I won the Italian Youth Bouldering Championship for two years, but I felt the pressure and my mind couldn’t take it… It all happened so fast.

What is your next plan?
I would like to climb some easier boulders in Val Daone. Than there is an 8C+ F.A. by Elias Iagnemma near my home💪🏻 I will see if it's possible to me😅