Amandine Loury does Baise moi (8c+) and Egosuccion (8c)

Amandine Loury is peaking after sending, in just two days, Egosuccion (8c) and Baise moi (8c+) in Saint Auban. The 35-year-old started out as a competition climber but stopped competing after earning a bronze medal at the Youth Worlds in 2009.

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
Baise Moi, bolted by Adrien Boulon, is a long route with 80 movements : 45 physical movements in the first part, a very good rest and 35 movements really not easy for finish, with risk. I did all the move from the first try, even the hard down climbing move. So I began to do try from the ground. I quickly fell close to the end of the first part. I t felt good but I was unable to send the route in 4 sessions before I had to leave Saint Auban.

In august we finally came back to the sector but I didn’t feel good during my two first tries in the route. I fell again at the same move, so I questionned my beta and finally changed 2 feets. The weather was hot. So I decided to try an other route, Egosuccion (8c) another nice route bolted by Adrien Boulon. After the send of Egosuccion, I went back one time in Baise Moi for remember the sensations. And after one rest day, I sent the route.

(c) Fanatic Climbing has made an interview asking the 35-year-old about changes in her approach that can explain her great development lately?
”I think I’ve gained experience, I’m much more efficient in many ways. I’ve also evolved mentally, in terms of the pressure of potentially getting a redpoint. Before, when I felt I was good enough to complete a route, I would put pressure on myself and start the route trembling, and I would climb badly. I was too focused on completing the route and not enough on the climbing itself. That doesn’t happen to me anymore. Now, it’s the quality of my climbing that matters to me in a try, and I’m able to completely ignore whether I succeed or fail on the route. I’m completely focused on climbing, on climbing well, and no matter what happens, when I manage to climb well, I get a lot of satisfaction out of it, which keeps me motivated.”