Advertorial: The world-famous Dolomites are only one of many top climbing areas in South Tyrol, northern Italy. The alpine region offers a great variety of sport climbing possibilities in the midst of beautiful landscape and nature. Here you can find walls of limestone as well as granite, gneiss and porphyry. The wonderful ski resorts of the region are well-known among winter vacationers, in summer you can experience wonderful mountain vacations and also enjoy wellness and culinary delights. Autumn is ideal for sport climbing and you’ll find a quiet and safe environment in numerous well maintained climbing crags. There are areas to spend an exciting climbing day with the family. Ambitious climbers will find projects in every difficulty level, or can simply have a good time with friends.

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- Best of South Tyrol from 6b to 8a
- Climbing in South Tyrol with the whole family

Use the code CLIMBSUEDTIROL to unlock both collections in the Vertical-Life App. Find more inspiration for your holiday and information about South Tyrol.

Arthur Guinet has done his seventh 9a, Der Helige Graal in Frankenjura, on his fourth session "It's not really "Franken style" as it is a long endurance route divided into three sections with good rest, traversing an amazing steep arch."

On Fanatic Climbing you said shorter routes like Action Direct is harder?
Yes, for me Action Directe is harder. I have been there two times but I could not do the first move and the next is hard as well.

What do you think about grade inflation and AD?
I agree with the inflation. I think the style of the routes have changed between 90's and now. Today, the routes are more endurance based and it's easier to make progress in endurance rather than in strength and power. If you want to progress in strength and power it takes a lot of times. It's also the reason why "9a endurance routes" are more repeated.

Advertorial: All three of us were hanging of the rocky outcrop. It was already afternoon and the team on the British route had been long gone since early morning. This was supposed to be a short break but neither of us moved. We looked at each other and the gaze was reflecting the same message: “it doesn’t look great!” No-one wanted to say a word or maybe neither of us wanted to say THE word. Read the full story

Evan Hau, who did his first 9a+ in June, has done the FA of Bow Valley Challenge 9a in Stoneworks. (c) Mike Hopkins

"I can't really guess how many sessions but it was a lot. I spent 2 months figuring out the sequences in 2018. It's quite intricate power endurance steep climbing, one of the steepest in the Bow Valley. Then about 1 month trying to redpoint this year. Part of the crux is slapping up an overhanging corner with very little texture and it's hard to chalk up. I had problems with my palms getting sweaty on hot days. This is the first line that caught my eye and the first line I bolted when I first walked into the cave. I had so much fun on this climb, one of the best hard lines in the area!!!"

Seb Bouin has done La moustache qui fâche 9a+ in Entraygues. In total, the French has now done almost 60 routes 8c+/9a to 9b/+. (c) Fred Labreveux

On Insta he comments, "After falling two times on the last "7b" moves, it was nice to finish the job yesterday 😀. It was cool to cut from the Verdon Gorges and the mega project on the Ramirole. Fresh air and new routes, perfect combo in Entraigues 👌. About the grade, I think this route is easier than Biographie. Yet, not enough to downgrade it to 9a."

Iziar Martinez, who had 8b as her personal best until six weeks ago, has done her third 8c, White Zombie in Baltzola after just two days projecting. The supersteep 30 meter route is famous for being the first 8c onsighted route in the world by Yuji Hirayama in 2004 and in 1999, it was the second 8c for a female done by Josune Bereziartu.
(c) Istrael Martinez
""I tried to do this route because I was close to this cave and a lot of people recommend it to me. It took me seven tries to send it during two days.My progress this summer was thanks to my coach and my families support and a little bit of my motivation 😂. Now I don't really have a project, I'm motivated to onsight. " One week ago, she did her first 8a+ onsight, Paideia in Rodellar and in the female ranking game, the 15-year-old is #9.

The onsight grade progress list is based on Wikipedia and for some reason the first 8b onsight is missing. It should be mentioned that comments have been put forward in regards grades and ethics for all the hardest listed, see below. In the early days, you had to put all quick draws in order to claim onsight and tick marks was not allowed.

7c Jerry Moffatt: Super Crack - Swanangunks, (USA) - 1982
7c+ Jerry Moffatt: Pol Pot - Verdon, (FRA) - 1984
8a Antoine Le Menestrel: Samizdat - Cimai, (FRA) - 1987
8a+ Jerry Moffatt: Centre Court - Frankenjura, (GER) - 1989
8b ??

8b+ Elie Chevieux: Massey Fergusson - Calanques (FRA) - 1995
8c Yuyi Hirayama: White Zombi FA - Baltzola (ESP) - 2004*
8c+ Patxi Usobiaga: Bizi Euskaraz - Etxauri (ESP) - 2007**
9a Alex Megos: Estado Critico - Siurana (ESP) 2013***

*Hirayama had belayed a friend who tried to redpoint it multiple times.
** It was an open active project.
*** A couple guys have suggested 8c+ for it. Adam Ondra had onsighted two 9a routes previous to Megos onsight but Ondra thought they were 8c+.

Felipe Camargo, who the last year did his first 9b, has done his second 8C, Direct Hit in Ubatuba. On his Insta he has published the video of the night session send.

" Full circle with this bloc! After doing the first ascent of Fortaleza v14 in 2014 i always believed that the Direct start was possible! Last year daniel woods made it possible doing first ascent and felt so good to put an end to this awesome boulder!! 5 really hard moves of 8b+ into 8a/+ end! Perfect straight 5 meters line by the ocean...All time!"

James Squire, who previously has done two 8C FAs has repeated his second, Power of Now in Magic Wod. "Unreal boulder! One session, tried the top section off a ladder then the first time I got through the bottom crux I climbed to the top. Maybe just 8B+? Big up Giuliano for developing and cleaning these mega lines and to Alex Kellas for the spot and support. It is a tall 60 degree roof which starts with a hard press move followed by a blind jump to a crimp. You then have to get set up for the final “superhero” move to the lip of the boulder. Definately one of the best boulders I have ever climbed! "