
1 September 2020
Der Heilige Graal 9a by Arthur Guinet
Arthur Guinet has done his seventh 9a, Der Helige Graal in Frankenjura, on his fourth session "It's not really "Franken style" as it is a long endurance route divided into three sections with good rest, traversing an amazing steep arch."
On Fanatic Climbing you said shorter routes like Action Direct is harder?
Yes, for me Action Directe is harder. I have been there two times but I could not do the first move and the next is hard as well.
What do you think about grade inflation and AD?
I agree with the inflation. I think the style of the routes have changed between 90's and now. Today, the routes are more endurance based and it's easier to make progress in endurance rather than in strength and power. If you want to progress in strength and power it takes a lot of times. It's also the reason why "9a endurance routes" are more repeated.
On Fanatic Climbing you said shorter routes like Action Direct is harder?
Yes, for me Action Directe is harder. I have been there two times but I could not do the first move and the next is hard as well.
What do you think about grade inflation and AD?
I agree with the inflation. I think the style of the routes have changed between 90's and now. Today, the routes are more endurance based and it's easier to make progress in endurance rather than in strength and power. If you want to progress in strength and power it takes a lot of times. It's also the reason why "9a endurance routes" are more repeated.
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