30 August 2020

The onsight grade progress

The onsight grade progress list is based on Wikipedia and for some reason the first 8b onsight is missing. It should be mentioned that comments have been put forward in regards grades and ethics for all the hardest listed, see below. In the early days, you had to put all quick draws in order to claim onsight and tick marks was not allowed.

7c Jerry Moffatt: Super Crack - Swanangunks, (USA) - 1982
7c+ Jerry Moffatt: Pol Pot - Verdon, (FRA) - 1984
8a Antoine Le Menestrel: Samizdat - Cimai, (FRA) - 1987
8a+ Jerry Moffatt: Centre Court - Frankenjura, (GER) - 1989
8b ??

8b+ Elie Chevieux: Massey Fergusson - Calanques (FRA) - 1995
8c Yuyi Hirayama: White Zombi FA - Baltzola (ESP) - 2004*
8c+ Patxi Usobiaga: Bizi Euskaraz - Etxauri (ESP) - 2007**
9a Alex Megos: Estado Critico - Siurana (ESP) 2013***

*Hirayama had belayed a friend who tried to redpoint it multiple times.
** It was an open active project.
*** A couple guys have suggested 8c+ for it. Adam Ondra had onsighted two 9a routes previous to Megos onsight but Ondra thought they were 8c+.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
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Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ