Jakob Schubert, the best male competition climber the last ten years who did his first 9b+ last year, reported on Insta that he had tried Alex Megos Bibliographie 9c in Céüse. We asked him for some further comments and surpricingly he could quickly do all moves. (c) Katha Saurwein

"I spent three tries on Alex Megos’ Bibliographie right after the competition in Briancon and it’s an amazing route actually. Alex was there himself, so he shared all his precious beta with me, which was obviously very helpful. In contrast to many other routes in Céüse Bibliographie doesn’t have only pockets but also some crimps which I definitely prefer. Alex’ description of the route might be pretty accurate when he says it‘s an 8b+ route into a hard 8A+ boulder; from there you have a really bad rest and then you have a 9a to the top.

I’m really happy I could do all the moves on it, so that was actually kind of surprising. I thought in a 9c I might have to work on the moves a lot more. Besides one at the very end with which I’m still kind of struggling with, the moves are all pretty ok. Connecting all these moves is obviously a different story but I’m psyched to return at some point. This year the season will be over quite soon, but I hope there’ll be time next year."

Martina Demmel, who was #24 in Briancon, has done her ninth 8c in 2020, Dures limites in Céüse. On Insta she says it was her probably hardest 8c as the others did not fully test her limit. In the 8a ranking game, the 18-year-old is #2. (c) Malik Schirawski

"Was a 100 percent sure to fall on these for me low percentage moves right before the top many times, but surprised myself by actually never missing any of these pockets🙈... It was like this one magic go when everything suddenly is feeling so flow almost effortless, even though it still was a big battle😻💭!"

Triglav the Rock Ljubljana run the final over the river in the city center in Speed mode footless. The format idea was Jernej Kruder's who also won among the male on a route that should have been at least 8a. "Actually, I am the ambassador of this comp and the whole idea for the finals was mine. When campusing it's hard to grade- big holds, big moves. Water was OK, maybe the air got a bit colder later in the night. It was good to compete again and that people actually stopped by and cheering up...it was also good to climb over the water again 😊"

There were 150 participants in the street edition qualification that should have climbed on different buildings, but bad weather forced them to go indoors. Among the female, climbing on extra holds in different colors, Vita Lukan won. More info to come.

Mejdi Schalck, who was #7 in Briancon, and Paul Jenft, who was #10, have done their first 9a, Shortcut in La Balme. Schalck (c) Aurele Bremond comments, "Very pleased to have done this route. I was going crazy as I kept falling 6/7 times in the final part."

Gonzalo Larrocha, has done the 60 meter route XL 9a in Baltzola, after 7 or 8 days of projecting. In total, the 36-year-old has now 18 routes 9a and harder out of which six the last 12 months. "Good end of the summer, sending it on the penultimate day. I fell twice in the White Zombie area."

Arthur Guinet has done his seventh 9a, Der Helige Graal in Frankenjura, on his fourth session "It's not really "Franken style" as it is a long endurance route divided into three sections with good rest, traversing an amazing steep arch."

On Fanatic Climbing you said shorter routes like Action Direct is harder?
Yes, for me Action Directe is harder. I have been there two times but I could not do the first move and the next is hard as well.

What do you think about grade inflation and AD?
I agree with the inflation. I think the style of the routes have changed between 90's and now. Today, the routes are more endurance based and it's easier to make progress in endurance rather than in strength and power. If you want to progress in strength and power it takes a lot of times. It's also the reason why "9a endurance routes" are more repeated.