4 September 2020
Schubert does all moves on Megos 9c
Jakob Schubert, the best male competition climber the last ten years who did his first 9b+ last year, reported on Insta that he had tried Alex Megos Bibliographie 9c in Cรฉรผse. We asked him for some further comments and surpricingly he could quickly do all moves. (c) Katha Saurwein
"I spent three tries on Alex Megosโ Bibliographie right after the competition in Briancon and itโs an amazing route actually. Alex was there himself, so he shared all his precious beta with me, which was obviously very helpful. In contrast to many other routes in Cรฉรผse Bibliographie doesnโt have only pockets but also some crimps which I definitely prefer. Alexโ description of the route might be pretty accurate when he says itโs an 8b+ route into a hard 8A+ boulder; from there you have a really bad rest and then you have a 9a to the top.
Iโm really happy I could do all the moves on it, so that was actually kind of surprising. I thought in a 9c I might have to work on the moves a lot more. Besides one at the very end with which Iโm still kind of struggling with, the moves are all pretty ok. Connecting all these moves is obviously a different story but Iโm psyched to return at some point. This year the season will be over quite soon, but I hope thereโll be time next year."
"I spent three tries on Alex Megosโ Bibliographie right after the competition in Briancon and itโs an amazing route actually. Alex was there himself, so he shared all his precious beta with me, which was obviously very helpful. In contrast to many other routes in Cรฉรผse Bibliographie doesnโt have only pockets but also some crimps which I definitely prefer. Alexโ description of the route might be pretty accurate when he says itโs an 8b+ route into a hard 8A+ boulder; from there you have a really bad rest and then you have a 9a to the top.
Iโm really happy I could do all the moves on it, so that was actually kind of surprising. I thought in a 9c I might have to work on the moves a lot more. Besides one at the very end with which Iโm still kind of struggling with, the moves are all pretty ok. Connecting all these moves is obviously a different story but Iโm psyched to return at some point. This year the season will be over quite soon, but I hope thereโll be time next year."
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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