Schubert does all moves on Megos 9c

Friday, 4 September

Jakob Schubert, the best male competition climber the last ten years who did his first 9b+ last year, reported on Insta that he had tried Alex Megos Bibliographie 9c in Céüse. We asked him for some further comments and surpricingly he could quickly do all moves. (c) Katha Saurwein

"I spent three tries on Alex Megos’ Bibliographie right after the competition in Briancon and it’s an amazing route actually. Alex was there himself, so he shared all his precious beta with me, which was obviously very helpful. In contrast to many other routes in Céüse Bibliographie doesn’t have only pockets but also some crimps which I definitely prefer. Alex’ description of the route might be pretty accurate when he says it‘s an 8b+ route into a hard 8A+ boulder; from there you have a really bad rest and then you have a 9a to the top.

I’m really happy I could do all the moves on it, so that was actually kind of surprising. I thought in a 9c I might have to work on the moves a lot more. Besides one at the very end with which I’m still kind of struggling with, the moves are all pretty ok. Connecting all these moves is obviously a different story but I’m psyched to return at some point. This year the season will be over quite soon, but I hope there’ll be time next year."

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