Alex Megos reports on Insta that he has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's L’étrange ivresse des lenteurs in Céüse. He did it in 5 or 6 tries over three days when he also was filming his recent 9c. "It felt hard for the grade to me so I went and tried “Biographie” a day later to compare and I personally think “L’étrange Ivresse” felt more like 9a+/b to me."

In total, the German has now done some 80 routes 9a to 9c. Last year, the 27-year-old qualified to the Olympics and he also got the silver in the Lead World Championship.

Adam Ondra has added yet another four hard ascents, out of which three with personal grades and the FA of Athena Natural 9a in Arco, which means he skipped the chipped holds on a classic 8b+. "Athena climbed without artificial holds (there are two - undercling chipped into the ball in the end of the roof, and the ball right above it). I almost did second go in 2018, then I broke a foothold on my 3rd try and then gave it maybe 15 tries over the last 2 years?! In the end, I found better beta and did it today while being tired and with approaching darkness."

Beginning 9a (+) in Arco, FA by Stefano Ghisolfi: "Very resistant climbing. I found a kneebar and that made the route less bumpy, which might make it only 9a. Checked the moves and did it next go. But I had done St Anger in the past and tried Zauberfee before."

Sid Lives 8c+ (9a) in Arco: "Probably more 8c+ with good conditions. Tried a few yrs ago, I had OK flash try, but then did not try it anymore. Today despite quite warm weather checked the moves, slipped once and did it."

Estrella 8c (+) in Warmbad: "Probably more of just hard 8c. The first crux is not enough to make it 8c+, and then there are rests that are too good. Amazing route nonetheless!"

It should be mentioned that Adam Ondra is the climber in the world that has given most personal grades which later almost always have been confirmed. Without all these personal grades, including as an example, the first two 9a's he onsighted, most probably there would have been more grade inflation in the climbing world. The 27-year-old has suggested personal grades since being a young teenager. In total, he has recorded 175 routes 9a and harder but it would probably be at least 200 without personal grades. Picture from his Insta with more than 600 000 followers.

There are many disciplines in rock climbing; Routes, Boulders, Trad, Big Wall and DWS. Who are the best rock climbers in the world based on their ticklist and ranking in five disciplines? Please comment to have an impact on the draft list: Top-10 all round Rock Climbers. The unique thing with the list is that includes Barbara Zangerls which just make her the only female making it in a Top-10 list of all physical sport of all kind?

1. Adam Ondra
2. Chris Sharma
3. Iker Pou
4. Jernej Kruder
5. Jacopo Larcher
6. Barbara Zangerl
7. Cedric Lachat
8. Tommy Caldwell
9. Alex Megos
10. Toni Lamprecht, Alex Huber
If we also add competitions, then Jan Hojer should be included in the Top-10, Cedric Lachat should have been in Top-5 and Jernej Kruder #2 after Adam Ondra.

This list is mainly based on performances in Lead, Boulder and Competitions and to a lesser extent of all sporty achievements in all climbing disciplines. Who has had most impact on the sport climbing scene and who has been ahead of their time? Please comment for having an impact on the 8a Top-10 sport climber of all time.

1. Adam Ondra CZE
2. Chris Sharma
3. Wolfgang Güllich
4. Fred Nicole
5. Yuji Hirayama

6. Jerry Moffatt
7. Dani Andrada
8. Alex Huber
9. Jakob Schubert
10. Ben Moon, Daniel Woods, Nalle Hukkataival, Kilian Fischhuber, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Dai Koyamada, Alex Megos, Toni Lamprecht and Francois Legrand

Jakob Schubert, the best male competition climber the last ten years who did his first 9b+ last year, reported on Insta that he had tried Alex Megos Bibliographie 9c in Céüse. We asked him for some further comments and surpricingly he could quickly do all moves. (c) Katha Saurwein

"I spent three tries on Alex Megos’ Bibliographie right after the competition in Briancon and it’s an amazing route actually. Alex was there himself, so he shared all his precious beta with me, which was obviously very helpful. In contrast to many other routes in Céüse Bibliographie doesn’t have only pockets but also some crimps which I definitely prefer. Alex’ description of the route might be pretty accurate when he says it‘s an 8b+ route into a hard 8A+ boulder; from there you have a really bad rest and then you have a 9a to the top.

I’m really happy I could do all the moves on it, so that was actually kind of surprising. I thought in a 9c I might have to work on the moves a lot more. Besides one at the very end with which I’m still kind of struggling with, the moves are all pretty ok. Connecting all these moves is obviously a different story but I’m psyched to return at some point. This year the season will be over quite soon, but I hope there’ll be time next year."

IFSC has presented the World Cup Calendar 2021 with six events in every discipline. Besides that the Olympics in Tokyo will take place 3-6/8 and the World Championships in Russia 20-31/8 (Youth) and 15-22/9 for seniors.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done his second 8c onsight, White Zombie in Baltzola, on his third day on. The super steep route is mentioned in the record books for the first-ever 8c onsight, performed by Yuji Hirayama back in 2004. It should, however, be mentioned that later some have given it 8b+ and Jorge comments on Insta, "But I really have to say that now it's a little easier with kneepads than it was before 🤔 although I did not see many of them 😅".

During the last month, the 20-year-old has done six routes 9a to 9b and he is getting superior in the 8a ranking game. Photographer, Carlos Padilla has followed many of his hardest ascents and comments,

"He is undoubtedly one of the best climbers of the moment, not only because of the level he does but also because of the number of hard routes that he is able to send in a few sessions and without rest. Motivation is without a doubt one of his strengths, he never gives up. He also has an extraordinary capacity for recovery that allows him to climb many days in a row, always at the highest level. It continues to amaze me the ability to do his maximum level, several times a day, several days in a row. He has an exceptional assimilation capacity. He has certainly not peaked. He seems for us like a real X-Man...😜"

Martina Demmel, who was #24 in Briancon, has done her ninth 8c in 2020, Dures limites in Céüse. On Insta she says it was her probably hardest 8c as the others did not fully test her limit. In the 8a ranking game, the 18-year-old is #2. (c) Malik Schirawski

"Was a 100 percent sure to fall on these for me low percentage moves right before the top many times, but surprised myself by actually never missing any of these pockets🙈... It was like this one magic go when everything suddenly is feeling so flow almost effortless, even though it still was a big battle😻💭!"

Triglav the Rock Ljubljana run the final over the river in the city center in Speed mode footless. The format idea was Jernej Kruder's who also won among the male on a route that should have been at least 8a. "Actually, I am the ambassador of this comp and the whole idea for the finals was mine. When campusing it's hard to grade- big holds, big moves. Water was OK, maybe the air got a bit colder later in the night. It was good to compete again and that people actually stopped by and cheering up...it was also good to climb over the water again 😊"

There were 150 participants in the street edition qualification that should have climbed on different buildings, but bad weather forced them to go indoors. Among the female, climbing on extra holds in different colors, Vita Lukan won. More info to come.