Athena natural (without chipped holds) 9a by Adam Ondra

Saturday, 5 September

Adam Ondra has added yet another four hard ascents, out of which three with personal grades and the FA of Athena Natural 9a in Arco, which means he skipped the chipped holds on a classic 8b+. "Athena climbed without artificial holds (there are two - undercling chipped into the ball in the end of the roof, and the ball right above it). I almost did second go in 2018, then I broke a foothold on my 3rd try and then gave it maybe 15 tries over the last 2 years?! In the end, I found better beta and did it today while being tired and with approaching darkness."

Beginning 9a (+) in Arco, FA by Stefano Ghisolfi: "Very resistant climbing. I found a kneebar and that made the route less bumpy, which might make it only 9a. Checked the moves and did it next go. But I had done St Anger in the past and tried Zauberfee before."

Sid Lives 8c+ (9a) in Arco: "Probably more 8c+ with good conditions. Tried a few yrs ago, I had OK flash try, but then did not try it anymore. Today despite quite warm weather checked the moves, slipped once and did it."

Estrella 8c (+) in Warmbad: "Probably more of just hard 8c. The first crux is not enough to make it 8c+, and then there are rests that are too good. Amazing route nonetheless!"

It should be mentioned that Adam Ondra is the climber in the world that has given most personal grades which later almost always have been confirmed. Without all these personal grades, including as an example, the first two 9a's he onsighted, most probably there would have been more grade inflation in the climbing world. The 27-year-old has suggested personal grades since being a young teenager. In total, he has recorded 175 routes 9a and harder but it would probably be at least 200 without personal grades. Picture from his Insta with more than 600 000 followers.

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