
5 September 2020
Athena natural (without chipped holds) 9a by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has added yet another four hard ascents, out of which three with personal grades and the FA of Athena Natural 9a in Arco, which means he skipped the chipped holds on a classic 8b+. "Athena climbed without artificial holds (there are two - undercling chipped into the ball in the end of the roof, and the ball right above it). I almost did second go in 2018, then I broke a foothold on my 3rd try and then gave it maybe 15 tries over the last 2 years?! In the end, I found better beta and did it today while being tired and with approaching darkness."
Beginning 9a (+) in Arco, FA by Stefano Ghisolfi: "Very resistant climbing. I found a kneebar and that made the route less bumpy, which might make it only 9a. Checked the moves and did it next go. But I had done St Anger in the past and tried Zauberfee before."
Sid Lives 8c+ (9a) in Arco: "Probably more 8c+ with good conditions. Tried a few yrs ago, I had OK flash try, but then did not try it anymore. Today despite quite warm weather checked the moves, slipped once and did it."
Estrella 8c (+) in Warmbad: "Probably more of just hard 8c. The first crux is not enough to make it 8c+, and then there are rests that are too good. Amazing route nonetheless!"
It should be mentioned that Adam Ondra is the climber in the world that has given most personal grades which later almost always have been confirmed. Without all these personal grades, including as an example, the first two 9a's he onsighted, most probably there would have been more grade inflation in the climbing world. The 27-year-old has suggested personal grades since being a young teenager. In total, he has recorded 175 routes 9a and harder but it would probably be at least 200 without personal grades. Picture from his Insta with more than 600 000 followers.
Beginning 9a (+) in Arco, FA by Stefano Ghisolfi: "Very resistant climbing. I found a kneebar and that made the route less bumpy, which might make it only 9a. Checked the moves and did it next go. But I had done St Anger in the past and tried Zauberfee before."
Sid Lives 8c+ (9a) in Arco: "Probably more 8c+ with good conditions. Tried a few yrs ago, I had OK flash try, but then did not try it anymore. Today despite quite warm weather checked the moves, slipped once and did it."
Estrella 8c (+) in Warmbad: "Probably more of just hard 8c. The first crux is not enough to make it 8c+, and then there are rests that are too good. Amazing route nonetheless!"
It should be mentioned that Adam Ondra is the climber in the world that has given most personal grades which later almost always have been confirmed. Without all these personal grades, including as an example, the first two 9a's he onsighted, most probably there would have been more grade inflation in the climbing world. The 27-year-old has suggested personal grades since being a young teenager. In total, he has recorded 175 routes 9a and harder but it would probably be at least 200 without personal grades. Picture from his Insta with more than 600 000 followers.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


