The European Lead Cup in Imst drew nearly 200 athletes, including 58 girls in the U-17 category. The event delivered strong performances across the board, you can see the winners and the full results here. Notably, both U-19 champions carried their momentum from the qualifications all the way to the top of the podium.

19: Luca NÜNDEL GER - Fae MACDOUGALL GBR
17: Christian LEITNER AUT - Julia RASMUSSEN SUI

Amandine Loury is peaking after sending, in just two days, Egosuccion (8c) and Baise moi (8c+) in Saint Auban. The 35-year-old started out as a competition climber but stopped competing after earning a bronze medal at the Youth Worlds in 2009.

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
Baise Moi, bolted by Adrien Boulon, is a long route with 80 movements : 45 physical movements in the first part, a very good rest and 35 movements really not easy for finish, with risk. I did all the move from the first try, even the hard down climbing move. So I began to do try from the ground. I quickly fell close to the end of the first part. I t felt good but I was unable to send the route in 4 sessions before I had to leave Saint Auban.

In august we finally came back to the sector but I didn’t feel good during my two first tries in the route. I fell again at the same move, so I questionned my beta and finally changed 2 feets. The weather was hot. So I decided to try an other route, Egosuccion (8c) another nice route bolted by Adrien Boulon. After the send of Egosuccion, I went back one time in Baise Moi for remember the sensations. And after one rest day, I sent the route.

(c) Fanatic Climbing has made an interview asking the 35-year-old about changes in her approach that can explain her great development lately?
”I think I’ve gained experience, I’m much more efficient in many ways. I’ve also evolved mentally, in terms of the pressure of potentially getting a redpoint. Before, when I felt I was good enough to complete a route, I would put pressure on myself and start the route trembling, and I would climb badly. I was too focused on completing the route and not enough on the climbing itself. That doesn’t happen to me anymore. Now, it’s the quality of my climbing that matters to me in a try, and I’m able to completely ignore whether I succeed or fail on the route. I’m completely focused on climbing, on climbing well, and no matter what happens, when I manage to climb well, I get a lot of satisfaction out of it, which keeps me motivated.”

Stefano Ghisolfi has completed Flow State (8C) in Val Daone. This was the fourth 8C for the route specialist with four 9b+’ to his name. (c) Sara Grippo

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Flow state starts from Grizzly (8A+/B) and finishes on Flow (8B/+). tried it for the first time last year and it felt impossible, specially the last move of Flow. I climbed the first part quite fast but I couldn't climb the last section last year. I tried it a bit more this year and finally climbed Flow on Saturday and it took me just a couple more tries to connect it from the lower start.

What is next?
I'd like to go back on routes at some point 😄

Marco Zanone, with a dozen routes 9a and beyond under his belt, has repeated Samuel Ometz’ La Mola mola (9a) in Plamproz. ”Top 10 route of all time. Truly amazing in every single way.” (c) Emilia Ferraro Titin

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
An outstanding piece of rock down by the river, close to the small village of Plamproz, Valais 🇨🇭 This type of line really brings out the best in me. I feel confident, motivated, and I can easily put in multiple days of tries in a row. It’s my comfort zone, and I think it’s exactly what I needed after so many years (still) chasing the big dream called Biographie.

I first tried the route about a month ago with Stefano Carnati and we both immediately got hooked. We returned the following weekend— He sent it while I dry-fired on the last move. Came back this weekend feeling solid and finally I topped it out. 🫶🏻 Mega props to Samuel Ometz for freeing this unique line and Dave Graham for the vision many years ago.


A couple of days later Marco did the second ascent of Marcello Bombardi’s El puma (9a) in Chesod. ”Super cool line with a mix of powerful and subtle moves. Starts with a 7b/c intro and then hits you with a ~10-move 8A+/B boulder crux. Felt tough at first, but with the new beta I’d say it sits somewhere between 8c+ and 9a.”

How can you best explain your recent peak?
If I try to explain the level of fitness I’m feeling right now, we need to rewind a few months. End of May 2025, I was back in Céüse battling with Biographie, feeling closer than ever before. Then, on the intro boulder, I slightly tweaked the pulley on my right ring finger. It hit me hard — I was bummed and a bit crushed mentally — but I tried to stay positive and think long-term rather than obsess over the moment.

I took a few weeks off, wrapped up some jobs I was working on, and by early July I started the slow process of rebuilding and toughening up my injured finger. It wasn’t easy: at first the pain was sharp and constant, but with patience, steady effort, and the help of my trusty osteopath, things started to move in the right direction.

Looking back, I think the real game-changer wasn’t just the rehab work, but the fact that for once I could live a stable lifestyle from the very start of the healing process. Normally my job keeps me away from home — sometimes for a week, sometimes just a few days — and that makes it really hard to stay consistent with training. It always feels like I’m just trying to keep up rather than push my fitness to the next level. And whenever I do get a free week, I usually end up on a climbing trip, fired up to try something hard, but sometimes my body isn’t quite ready to match my motivation.

This time, though, I did things the right way. And honestly, I’m a little surprised at how well it worked — but not too surprised. Mostly, I’m just psyched to keep pushing as far as I can, because the list of projects waiting for me is long, and it’s never empty ;)

Lorenzo Bogliacino, with a dozen routes 9a or beyond under his belt, has sent Alone (9a) in Gorges du Loup. The picture was taken after an early morning session when he had broken a foot hold.

Did you end up sending it after your night shift?
Actually, I did most of my climbs after working the night shift! I work on the railway as a station master. My job involves shift work, including weekends and holidays. I just prefer climbing over sleeping! So every time I finish a night shift, I head straight to climb. Of course, I’m always very tired, but when I have a clear goal and focus, everything feels easier.

Matteo Marrocchi has repeated Pietro Vidi’s Flow State (8C) in Val Daone. At age ten he stopped climbing after he had sent two 8a’s and won two Italian Youth Championships.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and also say something about your climbing background?
My climbing journey is quite unique. I first started climbing when I was just six years old, but by the time I turned ten I had already shifted my focus to another sport. For many years I stayed away from climbing, until, at the age of twenty, the spark reignited. From there, my progress was fast—within only three years of returning, I climbed my first 9a lead route and reached several finals in the Italian Cup.

More recently, I’ve begun dedicating myself to outdoor bouldering. A few days days ago I managed to send my first 8C boulder in surprisingly little time. The line is stunning: it consists of two 8B sections separated by a decent rest, with everything hanging on the very last move. All of this is set in the magical, almost fairytale-like atmosphere of Valdaone.

I see you did 8a’s already at age ten. How come you stopped being such a talent?
I was so young. I won the Italian Youth Bouldering Championship for two years, but I felt the pressure and my mind couldn’t take it… It all happened so fast.

What is your next plan?
I would like to climb some easier boulders in Val Daone. Than there is an 8C+ F.A. by Elias Iagnemma near my home💪🏻 I will see if it's possible to me😅

Luke Eberhard has repeated Dave Graham’s Parzival (8C) in Rocklands. The 21-year-old South African has previously sent four 8B+’s. (c) Rocklands Visual Diary

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I always enjoy the weird wizardry involved in many of Dave’s blocs, so it was high on my somewhat optimistic list of boulders to try. This year I dug in with my friend Tony and we made surprisingly consistent progress. The hardest part was understanding the conditions required to stick to the weird slopey dish crimp that is the crux right hand. On one of the last cold days of the season I had a heartbreaking dab after the crux. Thankfully a cold breezy evening appeared the next week to finish it off. Hopefully we will get one more for Tony to follow suit.

Beckett Hsin, who sent his first 8C in 2023, has done Creature From the Black Lagoon (8C+) in Upper Chaos. This summer, the 15-year-old has flashed three 8A+’ and sent three 8B+.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I started trying Creature back in early August, and pleasently surprised myself by making solid links within the first day. Every session I’d make good progress, wether it was refining my beta on the stand, reaching a new high point, or making a hard link. It was a type of linear progression that was super satisfying.

The day I sent was pretty surreal. The conditions were poor, and I had been dealing with a minor bicep injury from one of my previous sessions, so I didn’t really have any expectations. I just tried hard and enjoyed the moment, one attempt later and I found myself topping out! It was cool because even though I was trying something at my limit I didn’t feel like I had to take myself too seriously. Always had a good time up at the boulder regardless of my performance. The moves are really fun, and I always had some good homies to sesh with. Overall a super fun experience that had me psyched on the first of the grade!

Radek Votocek has done the second ascent of Pumplori (9a) in Allgäu. ”A perfect boulder route in Allgau by C. Bindhammer. Big overhang, power steps, trick passages.”

How can you best explain your great progress in 2025?
This year my sends went really well 🙂. If someone had told me back in March that I would climb 9a seven times this year, I would’ve laughed 😀. What helped my progress was physiotherapy, better nutrition, and some luck in picking the right routes. For a climber, the most important things are staying injury-free, and truly loving climbing.

Erin McNeice has been unstoppable in 2025, opening the Lead World Cup season with back-to-back victories before adding two third-place and two fourth-place finishes to her tally. For the 21-year-old, it marks the peak of a meteoric rise. Just three years ago, she was 13th at the Youth Worlds, and in 2023 she averaged 35th place among seniors. By last season, she had already broken through with three World Cup appearances, finishing as high as fifth and sixth. Chaehyun Seo claimed the runner-up spot this season. The Korean star first burst onto the scene in 2019, winning the overall title in her debut year at just 16. She very nearly added another crown in 2025, but a rule change by the IFSC, requiring all six events to count toward the overall standings, shifted the balance.