Beckett Hsin, 16, ticks Defying Gravity (8C) in one session

Beckett Hsin, who sent his first 8C in 2023, has repeated Daniel Woods Defying Gravity (8C) in South Platte. The 16-year-old, who is 159 cm tall with an ape index of +8 cm, needed only one session for the send. (c) Samuel Hsin

Can you tell us more about the quick send?
Defying Gravity has been a dream of mine for quite a while. It’s a striking, tall, overhanging face that revolves around a difficult jump move between two crimp rails. Despite it being relatively close to my house and fitting my style I had never tried it until recently. When I first tried it I didn’t have any expectations, I was just psyched to be trying such an amazing line. But after working out my beta, which ended up being a close right heel hook, I was able to stick the crux move pretty fast into the the session, and realized it was much more possible than I thought. But the second “much easier” jump move posed another challenge as I was too short to reach it. At first I tried to find a way to work around the big move, but eventually decided it was best to full commit to the jump. After missing the jump a few more times from the bottom, I managed to stick the move for the first time and take it all the way to the top!

Did you take any bad falls, like from the position in the picture?
Luckily I never took any bad falls. On my send attempt I stuck the second jump one handed and held a crazy swing, which felt super cool but was also pretty scary. I think if I had fallen there I would’ve swung off the landing onto some logs. The top out was spooky too since I’d never tried it before and didn’t have any beta. But I managed to keep my composure and work my way through it.

What is next?
I’m planning a trip to Joe’s Valley next month, I fell off the top of Pegasus (8C) last spring so I’m hoping to finish it off while I’m there. I’d also be interested in trying No One Mourns the Wicked (9A) I played around on the moves after I sent Defying Gravity and would be psyched to try it more later this year!

How does a normal training week look like and how much do you climb outdoors?
On average I climb 3-4 times a week in the gym, most of that time is spent on the Tension Board or spraywall. I like to keep my gym training flexible to allow for as much time on rock as possible. My older brother Sam writes me training plans and workouts which has been a huge help throughout the past few years!

Usually just once or twice on the weekends. I don’t have my drivers license yet so I mostly climb with my brother or when I can catch rides with my friends. My Dad has also been a big help, driving and supporting me on whatever projects I’m trying!