Lorenzo Bogliacino climbs Mona lisa integral (9a+) and four 9a’s

Lorenzo Bogliacino is peaking by sending Mona lisa integral (9a+) as well as four 9a’s during a two weeks trip to Rodellar. (c) Eduardo Ruano

Can you tell us more about the trip and the hardest sends?
I started dreaming about Mona Lisa Integral — a 60-meter king line on pure roof — along with all the routes in Museo, when I discovered the crag at the beginning of June. I began working on it during the summer holidays, when I climbed La Gioconda (9a), and try Così se Arete (9a) in Piscineta where I always fell in the last 10 meters of its 60-meter length.

Between the end of September and October, I had two weeks of holidays, and a clear project in mind for the trip: Mona Lisa Integral! On the first day, I warmed up on the second part of the route and felt pretty good... so, wanting to take advantage of the good conditions, I decided to give it a go. And totally unexpectedly, on the very first day of the trip and on my first real attempt on the route, I sent it!

Feeling in good shape, I decided to return to Piscineta. After two more days of work, I finally managed to finish Cosi se Arete (9a), an amazing line that crosses the entire overhang of Piscineta. I had started trying it last year, and it had given me a lot of trouble!

I continued climbing in Museo, where I was also able to do Rapahel integral (9a), Persistencia de la gioconda (9a) and El beso de la Gioconda (9a) — all of which share the final endurance section of La Gioconda (9a). I also took the opportunity to climb in other sectors of Rodellar, where I did about 10 routes between 8a and 8b+.