Loic Zehani, who the last ten years has put up 51 routes 9a to 9b, has made the FA of Fubar (9a) in Les Branches. ”Amazing big overhang. Almost all the 8c+ bolted by Christophe Bernard ( to the right of La bouga ) then finish to the left with 12 hard and nice moves. After falling two times at the very top yesterday today was the good one. So happy to climb the first 9a of this fantastic crag.”

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
It’s an extension to an 8c+ (which I climbed in 2022 and still hasn’t been repeated) that ends at the end of my big project (equipped by my father and which could potentially be a 9b+). This summer I made great progress on the project, but as I felt I probably wouldn’t have the time this season, I devoted the last three sessions to climbing the 9a, which involves a major endurance effort in the second part and bouldering sections interspersed with rests on the first part of the route. It’s the first 9a route in the sector, but Jean Marc Oberli and my father have begun to develop the cave’s 9 potential over the last two years.

Lana Skušek, who last year was #8 in the Lead Europe Championships, has done The Source stand (8A+) in Maltatal.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I first tried the line a few days earlier — managed to do all the moves, but couldn’t link it. Three days later it was way better and I knew it would still go. I knew exactly what I had to do, and pretty quickly I managed to send. It was also my first time climbing with a kneepad, and I have to say, it’s actually pretty fun.

Simon Lorenzi, with four 9A’s to his name, has done Permanent midnight low (8C+) and flashed Compass North (8B+) both established by Clement Lechaptois in Fionnay. The 28-year-old Belgian has been an active competition climber for 15 years and in 2022 he won one Euro Cup.

Few male athletes dare to speak openly about their doubts and struggles. Simon does so with authenticity and transparency. After a difficult period – failing to qualify for the Paris 2024 Olympics, a challenging trip to the US (where he nevertheless climbed his fourth 9A) – he went through a deep questioning. In an interview with Vertige Media, he opened up about his burnout and loss of meaning in sport, speaking about symptoms of depression and a feeling of loneliness in his pursuit of performance.

Today, Simon climbs free from pressure and outside expectations. He has established new routines and methods to combine performance and enjoyment: performance is no longer a solitary pursuit. He surrounds himself with his partner, friends, and manager, and shares his experience with other climbers. Recently, he supported Jules Marchaland in his flash of The Power of Now (8C), a boulder Simon had opened a few years earlier, by showing him key beta and giving him confidence. This perfectly reflects his new mindset: rediscovering joy in effort, in hard projects, beautiful lines, and technical moves, while seeing each challenge as an opportunity to grow – not only as a climber but also as a human being. His energy and optimism make his obsession truly inspiring.

Jules Marchaland, who is just back home from Flatanger, has done the first ascent of Thon glillé (9a) in Carros. In the VL ranking game, the 24-year-old is #1 including having done eleven routes 9a to 9b during the last 12 months. In the three Worlds Cups he has participated in this summer he was 17 - 26 - 26. And one month ago he flashed an 8C boulder.

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
A cool Line from Cedric Lo Piccolo. He bolted it because his wife Stefani was trying Chocholocco (9a) and he needed a route to climb there because he already had done all the routes, haha.

A bit chipped but really fun and cool to climb. I tried it yesterday, one go to check the moves, one pretty good try. I come back today and send it directly. It was cool during this small trip to home. Just 15 min from my parents house.

What is next?
Training in Grenoble after too much rock climb haha. Then maybe Fionnay, a bit in Font and then training again before the USA trip my my bros.

What about next year, going back into comp mode?
Comps are finnished. I want to do what I love. Maybe in some years, but now I just want to climb outside and keep the fire high.

”This is one of my proudest additions—without a doubt, in my personal top 5 9b/5.15b routes worldwide. The first section climbs around 8c+, leading into a crux that bumps it to 9a. Then comes a wild 360 crux, roughly 8A/V11 boulder. And to top it all off, there’s a final 8b+/c section—I even fell there during a send attempt.”

Marine Thevenet, with some 130 boulders 8A to her name, has completed Manhattan reine cantonale (8B+) in Valais Central. Her second sessions was in mid July and since the she has wo worked it once every other week more or less, often alone. (c) Antoine Mesnage

Can you tell us more about the process behind the ascent?
About the process: until my 5th session, there was a move I still hadn’t done. I was ‘close’ but it wouldn’t work. Normally, you have to do a left heel hook, take a left-hand crimp, move again left to a small crimp, and then jump to the final jug. I couldn’t manage to do the lockoff to go again right. I was too small to keep the heel hook, and not strong enough to do do it with a toe-in (I don't know if this is the correct word in english - "griffé" de pied in french). So it cost me a lot mentally to stay ‘positive’ and tell myself that the problem was possible. But somehow, I started to "like" that it was a big challenge ! At my fifth session, I found another beta: keep the left hand and go to the small right-hand crimp. From there, everything clicked! I progressed with each of the sessions that followed.

The boulder is 2.5 hours from my place. I have to admit, it was quite the mission!!! Especially… since it gets into the shade at 5 p.m. The first time I went to Pralong, it was to do the boulder 'La Cantolle 8B,' and when I sent it, I saw 'Manhattan.' You don’t really choose your projects ;) I liked it, I wanted to commit, and I organized everything around my motivation :)

In reality, it actually worked pretty well with my job. I wasn’t losing a whole day of work by going to my project—I could work in the morning, take calls in the car or listen to podcasts that help me with work, do my session at the end of the day, and then head home! I still had trouble doing more than one session per week on the boulder because it completely exhausted me!

And I think I needed a challenge that would resist me. It sounds strange to say it like that, but it pushed me to my limits. At first, I had a lot of doubts, and gradually I told myself: that’s the game. Not being completely sure that I’d ever do it, and putting everything in place to succeed—or at least do my best.

Did you do any special training for the send?
I trained lockoffs for five weeks, haha! Then, with the new beta, I changed everything—more shoulder and core training. I did one session on the boulder, one specific session (lockoffs or shoulder work), and one or two other workouts per week. It depended on how tired I was.

What is next?
I am going to spain this autumn, so we will see ! I want to climb in La Pedriza :)

Claudia Ghisolfi, who sent her first 9a in 2022, has completed Trip tik tonik (9a) in Gorges du Loup. The 29-year old Italian has been an active competition climber since 2010 and this summer she was #6 in a Euro Cup. (c) Crimp Films
Can you give us your story behind the ascent?
I started trying Trip Tik Tonik 9a, at the end of July, after the first part of the competition season. I was there in Gorges du Loup for a short trip with Laura Rogora, Giovanni Placci and other friends. I was near to send it just after few tries but than Giovanni broke an hold and the boulder section became harder for me. Finally this Saturday I sent it! I'm so proud of this ascent because it's considered one of the best 9a in France! Now fingers crossed for my boyfriend Alessio Voghera that is trying this route as well 🤞🏻

What is next?
3-4 October there is the Italian championship in Arco. After the end of the competition season I'll go somewhere with my boyfriend but we don't know if we will go to Rodellar or Gorges du loup.

Andrea Chelleris, who was third at the Imst Euro Cup last weekend, has done Ultimatum (9a+) in Arco. The 16-year-old has previously logged nine routes 9a or beyond. ”Not the hardest for sure because it’s a connection. Incredibile endurance, the scariest thing was that I almost fell at the last sketchy crux just under anchor 😅”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
After the EYC in Imst I came down to Arco to train at the Italian training center. The. I went to Massone to try Reini’s Vibes (8c+) and on the 2^ day (I was already trying it a couple of years ago) I could send it. Yesterday, after the send, I decided to give a go to Ultimatum and I remembered everything from the past years but not the very last part so I had to figure it out again. Today I was way tired but with a lot of motivation and beast mode, especially on the crux with the 2 finger jam, I could get to the chain. I was very anxious at the last quick draw because there’s still a crux and I couldn’t get my pump away and I almost fell 😅

What is next and what about slalom comps this winter?
I still need to finish the comp season but we plan to go to Margalef in November. I decided to give 100% on climbing so last year stopped skiing.

Where do you train and how much?
I train six times a week. I almost always train at climbing ranch which takes 1 hour to go, most of the times with my friend Domen Skofic. Sometimes for a change I go to other good gyms.

How does a normal day look like including going to school?
I actually do homeschooling so I can study when my parents are busy and I can go climbing whenever they are free. This was my third year.

Jules Marchaland, who last month flashed an 8C boulder, has sent Kangaroo's Limb (9a+) and Illusionist (9a) in Flatanger. ”With the injury in my leg, it was the only route I could try. When I started again, I felt weak, and it was a tough one. I can’t say I really enjoyed the route 😅... But I had to finish the job and had a great fight.”

Can you tell us more about the injury in your leg?
My trip was a bit weird because I could not move out of my bed for like ten days. It seems I could not move my leg because of a nerve problem. Then I was really weak going back so I had to take a rest day. It was horrible but after three days of recovery I could send it.

Kangaroo’s Limb the 24-year-old actually sent on the same day but as he got short roped going dynamic to the last hold, he just jumped instead clipping the chain. ”Climbed it 2 fucking times 😅. Last day best day we said ? So hard mentally, this shitty trip is finally not that bad. Sick route, 8b route into good rest, and hard long boulder with random moves.”

The French climbing website GrimpActu.com recently published an article about Rebolt Kalymnos. Rebolt Kalymnos is a new climber-led initiative dedicated to keeping Kalymnos safe, enjoyable, and world-class. Below is an AI-powered English translation of the article:

Rebolt Kalymnos: Securing and Preserving the Cliffs of the Greek Island
Text: Théo de GrimpActu

Kalymnos. For climbers, the name resonates like a myth: a limestone paradise in the heart of the Aegean, where thousands of sculpted lines attract passionate climbers from around the world each year. But behind the postcard image lies a fragile reality: worn anchors, aging bolts, eroding paths. Silent threats that weigh heavily on both the safety and longevity of the cliffs. It was in response to this that Rebolt Kalymnos was born — a collective created by and for climbers. The story began on a spring evening in 2024, over a beer among friends. For years, each of them had maintained the cliffs “in their own way”: replacing a hanger, tightening a belay, patching things up here and there. But with nearly 5,000 routes to monitor and the total indifference of local authorities, this approach had reached its limit.

“We knew the time had come. We had to secure the future of Kalymnos for generations to come. The idea of a collective emerged almost naturally,” they recall. Within a few months, despite administrative hurdles, the non-profit association was officially launched. Rebolt Kalymnos was born, with a simple but enormous mission: to make the island safer and preserve its vertical heritage for the long term.

A Cosmopolitan and Tight-Knit Team
Behind the project stand five founders: a Swiss, two Greeks (including a Kalymnian woman who returned to her island), and a Frenchman. Soon, the team grew: climbers from Ukraine, Austria, France, the UK, Norway… Mountain guides, instructors, experienced bolters — each bringing skills and expertise. Together, they carry decades of practice and intimate knowledge of the cliffs. But the strength of Rebolt Kalymnos also lies in those who believe in the mission without being climbers themselves. The website is developed by an Athenian programmer, the visual communication managed by an American graphic designer. “Everyone brings something. Even non-climbers write to us offering help,” they explain.

Kalymnos: More than Just a Climbing Destination
For the collective’s members, Kalymnos is not just a famous climbing spot: it is home. Maria, one of the founders, was born here. After years away, she chose to return and settle back on her island. She is among the few local climbers, deeply aware of the importance of climbing for the island’s economy and culture. The other members also decided to root themselves here. “Kalymnos changed our lives. We worked hard to make it our home. It hasn’t always been easy, but we’re determined to leave it in better shape.” Their daily lives balance between rebolting, writing guidebooks, training new climbers, and raising awareness in the community. A full immersion, at the service of the island and its cliffs.

A Movement by Climbers, for Climbers
Rebolt Kalymnos operates without sponsors, without subsidies, and without local government support. Everything relies on donations from visiting climbers who are happy to give something back to the island that gives them so much. The community plays a vital role, reporting problems on the cliffs — damaged anchors, worn carabiners, missing hangers. But there are challenges: “We receive many reports, but two issues remain: visibility of our online form (many still don’t know about it), and accuracy. When we’re told missing bolts!, it’s often just a hanger that’s gone. The solution is different, but the urgency remains the same.” Sometimes the work feels thankless, they admit with humor: “We’d sometimes rather climb than haul drills and bolts up to the cliffs… but someone has to do it.”

The Mission: Safety, Transmission, and Respect for the Rock
The philosophy of the collective rests on three pillars: secure the cliffs, protect Kalymnos, prepare for the future. In practice, this means:
• Replacing dangerous or outdated bolts,
• Creating a system of monitoring and accountability,
• Educating climbers in good practices (using their own gear for top-roping, tightening a hanger, reporting issues),
• Raising awareness among locals,
• Training the next generation of bolters.

Safety comes first. Sometimes this means adding a bolt or slightly adjusting a line to avoid ground falls. A striking example: the Je T’Aime sector, poorly bolted originally and almost abandoned. In 2024, a complete rebolting with additional bolts and thorough cleaning made it popular again. By contrast, iconic places like the Grande Grotta are treated with extreme care. No new bolts disturb the fragile balance of its spectacular stalactites.

Between Small Fixes and Major Projects
There is no such thing as a “typical day” for Rebolt Kalymnos. Sometimes they carry a few hangers, carabiners, and wrenches in their packs to fix things along the way. Other times, projects take on another scale. The biggest so far was the complete rebolting of Secret Garden, using titanium resin bolts. Weeks of preparation, eight hours of daily work suspended in the void, meticulous logistics. Only the most experienced volunteers, trained in glue-in techniques, could take part. Whether small fixes or large undertakings, each mission serves the same goal: collective safety.

Hidden Challenges
Beyond drills and bolts, other challenges loom. Bureaucracy: creating a legal structure, managing accounts, navigating administration. Communication: social media, fundraising, tracking reports — all time-consuming work done in the volunteers’ free time. Educating climbers is another challenge: using their own gear for top-ropes, tightening a hanger, avoiding behaviors that accelerate wear. Simple actions that greatly extend the life of fixed equipment. Fortunately, Kalymnos boasts high-quality limestone, with little susceptibility to corrosion. And when corrosion is a risk — as in Secret Garden — the team chooses the most durable solutions, thanks to the community’s financial support.

Looking Ahead
Officially active since 2025, the association is still young. There aren’t many colorful anecdotes yet, but the collective celebrates one big achievement: Secret Garden. And, above all, a deeper satisfaction: “The most rewarding thing is knowing we’re preparing for the future. That Kalymnos’ cliffs will welcome climbers long after we’ve put away our drills.”

A Call to the Community
For everyone visiting Kalymnos to climb, Rebolt Kalymnos has four simple messages:
1. Bring a wrench to tighten loose nuts.
2. Use your own gear for top-roping and lowering, to preserve fixed carabiners.
3. Stay attentive, check bolts, and report problems via their website.
4. Make a donation, even a small one. Every contribution directly funds cliff safety.

Because the future of Kalymnos depends on everyone — passing climbers and dedicated volunteers alike. More info: Rebolt Kalymnos