After having won both the qualification and semi, Janja Garnbret created the best finnish of the Lead World Championship by topping the final route.

”This one feels extra special. After last year, the Olympic year, where the pressure was the highest, I didn’t know if I could handle another year with another important competition, but I am so glad I did this World Champs. My body was ready, and my mind was at peace with myself and whatever happened would happen, and it’s another world title and I am so excited. Today there is no time to celebrate. I’ll do that after tomorrow. The excitement is super high and I’m excited to get on the boulder wall tomorrow and do my best. I hope I will be able to sleep tonight as I will be buzzing in my bed, but I’m looking forward to tomorrows comp.”

Sorato Anraku, the big favorite at the World Championship in Korea, finished in tenth place in the semifinal. During the qualification round, another of the big names, Toby Roberts, was eliminated, placing 25th. Complete semi results.

The biggest sensation during the women's semifinal at the World Championship in Korea was that Laura Rogora narrowly missed the final, finishing in ninth place. Complete semi results.

Loic Zehani, who the last ten years has put up 51 routes 9a to 9b, has made the FA of Fubar (9a) in Les Branches. ”Amazing big overhang. Almost all the 8c+ bolted by Christophe Bernard ( to the right of La bouga ) then finish to the left with 12 hard and nice moves. After falling two times at the very top yesterday today was the good one. So happy to climb the first 9a of this fantastic crag.”

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
It’s an extension to an 8c+ (which I climbed in 2022 and still hasn’t been repeated) that ends at the end of my big project (equipped by my father and which could potentially be a 9b+). This summer I made great progress on the project, but as I felt I probably wouldn’t have the time this season, I devoted the last three sessions to climbing the 9a, which involves a major endurance effort in the second part and bouldering sections interspersed with rests on the first part of the route. It’s the first 9a route in the sector, but Jean Marc Oberli and my father have begun to develop the cave’s 9 potential over the last two years.

Lana Skušek, who last year was #8 in the Lead Europe Championships, has done The Source stand (8A+) in Maltatal.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I first tried the line a few days earlier — managed to do all the moves, but couldn’t link it. Three days later it was way better and I knew it would still go. I knew exactly what I had to do, and pretty quickly I managed to send. It was also my first time climbing with a kneepad, and I have to say, it’s actually pretty fun.

Simon Lorenzi, with four 9A’s to his name, has done Permanent midnight low (8C+) and flashed Compass North (8B+) both established by Clement Lechaptois in Fionnay. The 28-year-old Belgian has been an active competition climber for 15 years and in 2022 he won one Euro Cup.

Few male athletes dare to speak openly about their doubts and struggles. Simon does so with authenticity and transparency. After a difficult period – failing to qualify for the Paris 2024 Olympics, a challenging trip to the US (where he nevertheless climbed his fourth 9A) – he went through a deep questioning. In an interview with Vertige Media, he opened up about his burnout and loss of meaning in sport, speaking about symptoms of depression and a feeling of loneliness in his pursuit of performance.

Today, Simon climbs free from pressure and outside expectations. He has established new routines and methods to combine performance and enjoyment: performance is no longer a solitary pursuit. He surrounds himself with his partner, friends, and manager, and shares his experience with other climbers. Recently, he supported Jules Marchaland in his flash of The Power of Now (8C), a boulder Simon had opened a few years earlier, by showing him key beta and giving him confidence. This perfectly reflects his new mindset: rediscovering joy in effort, in hard projects, beautiful lines, and technical moves, while seeing each challenge as an opportunity to grow – not only as a climber but also as a human being. His energy and optimism make his obsession truly inspiring.

Jules Marchaland, who is just back home from Flatanger, has done the first ascent of Thon glillé (9a) in Carros. In the VL ranking game, the 24-year-old is #1 including having done eleven routes 9a to 9b during the last 12 months. In the three Worlds Cups he has participated in this summer he was 17 - 26 - 26. And one month ago he flashed an 8C boulder.

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
A cool Line from Cedric Lo Piccolo. He bolted it because his wife Stefani was trying Chocholocco (9a) and he needed a route to climb there because he already had done all the routes, haha.

A bit chipped but really fun and cool to climb. I tried it yesterday, one go to check the moves, one pretty good try. I come back today and send it directly. It was cool during this small trip to home. Just 15 min from my parents house.

What is next?
Training in Grenoble after too much rock climb haha. Then maybe Fionnay, a bit in Font and then training again before the USA trip my my bros.

What about next year, going back into comp mode?
Comps are finnished. I want to do what I love. Maybe in some years, but now I just want to climb outside and keep the fire high.

”This is one of my proudest additions—without a doubt, in my personal top 5 9b/5.15b routes worldwide. The first section climbs around 8c+, leading into a crux that bumps it to 9a. Then comes a wild 360 crux, roughly 8A/V11 boulder. And to top it all off, there’s a final 8b+/c section—I even fell there during a send attempt.”

Marine Thevenet, with some 130 boulders 8A to her name, has completed Manhattan reine cantonale (8B+) in Valais Central. Her second sessions was in mid July and since the she has wo worked it once every other week more or less, often alone. (c) Antoine Mesnage

Can you tell us more about the process behind the ascent?
About the process: until my 5th session, there was a move I still hadn’t done. I was ‘close’ but it wouldn’t work. Normally, you have to do a left heel hook, take a left-hand crimp, move again left to a small crimp, and then jump to the final jug. I couldn’t manage to do the lockoff to go again right. I was too small to keep the heel hook, and not strong enough to do do it with a toe-in (I don't know if this is the correct word in english - "griffé" de pied in french). So it cost me a lot mentally to stay ‘positive’ and tell myself that the problem was possible. But somehow, I started to "like" that it was a big challenge ! At my fifth session, I found another beta: keep the left hand and go to the small right-hand crimp. From there, everything clicked! I progressed with each of the sessions that followed.

The boulder is 2.5 hours from my place. I have to admit, it was quite the mission!!! Especially… since it gets into the shade at 5 p.m. The first time I went to Pralong, it was to do the boulder 'La Cantolle 8B,' and when I sent it, I saw 'Manhattan.' You don’t really choose your projects ;) I liked it, I wanted to commit, and I organized everything around my motivation :)

In reality, it actually worked pretty well with my job. I wasn’t losing a whole day of work by going to my project—I could work in the morning, take calls in the car or listen to podcasts that help me with work, do my session at the end of the day, and then head home! I still had trouble doing more than one session per week on the boulder because it completely exhausted me!

And I think I needed a challenge that would resist me. It sounds strange to say it like that, but it pushed me to my limits. At first, I had a lot of doubts, and gradually I told myself: that’s the game. Not being completely sure that I’d ever do it, and putting everything in place to succeed—or at least do my best.

Did you do any special training for the send?
I trained lockoffs for five weeks, haha! Then, with the new beta, I changed everything—more shoulder and core training. I did one session on the boulder, one specific session (lockoffs or shoulder work), and one or two other workouts per week. It depended on how tired I was.

What is next?
I am going to spain this autumn, so we will see ! I want to climb in La Pedriza :)

Claudia Ghisolfi, who sent her first 9a in 2022, has completed Trip tik tonik (9a) in Gorges du Loup. The 29-year old Italian has been an active competition climber since 2010 and this summer she was #6 in a Euro Cup. (c) Crimp Films
Can you give us your story behind the ascent?
I started trying Trip Tik Tonik 9a, at the end of July, after the first part of the competition season. I was there in Gorges du Loup for a short trip with Laura Rogora, Giovanni Placci and other friends. I was near to send it just after few tries but than Giovanni broke an hold and the boulder section became harder for me. Finally this Saturday I sent it! I'm so proud of this ascent because it's considered one of the best 9a in France! Now fingers crossed for my boyfriend Alessio Voghera that is trying this route as well 🤞🏻

What is next?
3-4 October there is the Italian championship in Arco. After the end of the competition season I'll go somewhere with my boyfriend but we don't know if we will go to Rodellar or Gorges du loup.