Matteo Gambaro, 50, ticks Paranoid Android (8c+)

Matteo Gambaro, who last month sent his seventh 9a, has completed Paranoid Android (8c+) in Val Tanaro. After the 9a he said, ”I can still improve, but I need to rest more and do shorter, more focused power sessions.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I climbed the easier version called Paranoid (8c) last year after a bad back injury. I also tried this more difficult variation, but I was a long way off and still recovering. This summer, I preferred to prepare and try a more ambitious project Prima Classe (9a) which required a lot of effort, but being more intense, allowed me to build a good strength base.

After managing to send it, and being at the end of the season, I tried this line again out of curiosity. Compared to last year, I felt better, and was immediately able to redo the first part of the route and the final section, which, after a rest, consisted of 10 difficult moves. So, after a few days where I fell on the final moves, I finally managed to complete this line.

It was a good test because the final section is shared with another beautiful 9a/+ line that starts further to the right and which I plan to try next season.