Melina Costanza does The Mantra (8B+)

Melina Costanza, who last month got the bronze in the World Championship, has sent The Mantra (8B+) in Little Cottonwood Canyon (UT), in just three sessions. (c) Alex Johnson

Can you tell us more about the quick ascent?
I spent all summer training hard for last month’s world championship, so I felt strong and wanted to get back on the rock. I’ve wanted to try this boulder for a year and only recently got my fingers healthy enough to try something so crimpy. My first day on it was last week, but it was over 70 degrees Fahrenheit. It dropped 20 degrees this week and I was able to put it down quickly!

I think the temperature mattered so much because you do multiple hand moves and multiple foot moves off the same small crimp. You need to stick to the rock perfectly to be able to stay engaged on it for so long.