NEWS

Collateral Impact 8A (+) by Arabella Jariel (19)
Bella Jariel, who earlier this winter has flashed her first 7C+, has done Collateral Impact 8A (+) in Gunks.(c) Jennie Jariel

"I first tried Collateral in January, but I didnโ€™t start projecting it seriously until early this month. Although I figured out most of the moves early on, it took me four sessions to finally piece it all together. My first few attempts today felt terrible, and I couldn't even stick the crux move in isolation. Had one decent go from the bottom, so I decided to just go for it. By some miracle, I stuck the crux and found myself at the top."

Please say something about your climbing background?
Iโ€™ve been climbing for over 12 years, but I mostly focused on competitions. With COVID and having recently moved closer to outdoor areas, Iโ€™ve gotten the chance to find some projects on real rock.

"Adventure terrain" could solve access problems in Italy
Andrea Gennari Daneri from Pareti has shared the story how an access problem could be solved in Italy by defining crags as "adventure terrain". The background was that a landowner wanted to close the crag due to a recent accident. (c) Pareti - Annalisa Caggiati climbing in "Clandestino" sector, Fosso Dell'Eremo

"On March 2, 2021, a 68-year-old climber fell off one of the various crags of Fosso dell'Eremo area (Marche, Italy) due to an error in the abseiling operations after a solo ascent. Following this event, the owners of the area, also owners of the nearby quarry, have forbidden access to the crags indefinitely. Local climbers, anticipating the ordinance of the mayor of the town of Piobbico in whose municipality the best crags of the entire Marche region are located, have issued a request not to frequent the entire area until further notice. This is to demonstrate a sense of responsibility and a willingness to collaborate with the authorities in order to reopen all the crags, including that of Fosso. The climbers propose to arrive at a definition of all these crags as an adventure terrain on which neither the owners nor the local authorities can be called into argue in the event of an accident. In Italy, in recent months and from north to south, there has been a succession of closures of small minor climbing sites, usually located in private land. If the local climbers, led by the regional delegate Fasi Alessandro Angelini, succeed in this challenge, it will be a formidable precedent that could be imitated throughout the country, so as to avoid further closures. At the moment in Italy, unless for very few crags scattered in the country, thereโ€™s no regulation and even definition about their access and use."

First Ley 9a+ by Dave Graham (39)
Dave Graham reports on Insta that he has done First Ley 9a+ in Margalef. This high class route was put up by Chris Sharma and is an easier left exit to First Round First Minute 9b. (c) Andrew Pawlby

Did you find any new kneebars?
For my beta I only use one new kneebar that Jorge (Diaz-Rullo) found. But I cant really put it in the same way as Jorge so it was helpful but not enough hahaha.

Theres a very key hold that broke off in the crux which makes it definitely harder. It was the horizontal crimp you jumped too in all the famous photos. Its completely gone, now theres just a diagonal slopey edge. So there may be a new kneebar but we are missing a key hold haha!!!

"At the end of the sesh I did the last boulder of FR from the rest to the anchor feeling solid, so now Iโ€™m super motivated to go back give it some proper burns!! Felt great in La Capella and Furia de Jabali the past couple of days, the two other 9bโ€™s I want to do, so finally feeling some momentum behind my climbing after what seems like a lot of months of trying really hard with very little progress ๐Ÿ™Œ๐Ÿป"

In a previous Insta post, the 39-year-old has stated that ten years ago he could not do any of the moves om FRFM. Dave did Action Directe as his first 9a in 2001 and since he has been one of the leading rock climbers in the world. Last year, he did his first-ever 9b, and in total he has done some 25 routes 9a and harder. He has also done some 20 8C boulders.

Max Bertone has done Mysterio 8B in Fontainebleau in just two sessions. In the video, we can see the 13-year-old's extreme hip flexibility, just as his sibling Oriane, while he does Le vent dans la plaine 8A on his second go.

1. Remind yourself of the feeling of happiness!
Itโ€™s so important to remind yourself of that feeling of euphoria you get after you put in all that hard work. Itโ€™s simply awesome. And itโ€™s motivating to recall this feeling.

2. Have a good time!
Whether you achieve your goal or not, I find it very important to have a really good time. If youโ€™re not having fun doing what youโ€™re doing, it becomes difficult to stay motivated.

3. Surround yourself with good people!
Having good friends and a good atmosphere around me is crucial. In Switzerland my two good friends Michael Piccolruaz and Nicolai were with me. Even when a boulder frustrates you, youโ€™ve got good music in the background and can joke around โ€“ itโ€™s fun, and makes it really easy to stay motivated.

Pegasus 8C by Matt Fultz
Matt Fultz, who did his first 8C less than two years ago, has done his 15th, Pegasus in Joe's Valley. Add to that two 8C+'s, and the 29-year-old late bloomer is a rather superior #1 in the 8a ranking game.

How many sessions did it take?
Pegasus took 3 sessions. One is way-too-hot conditions, one with great conditions but I split my tip, then sent 1st go on my 3rd session.

How has Covid-19 affected your climbing life?
Covid has affected my climbing pretty dramatically. Weโ€™ve moved into a 35 feet long RV so we can travel as safely while still staying โ€œat homeโ€. Also, since competitions have been pretty much dead, Iโ€™ve been able to get outside more days than ever before, which has been a giant blessing. Iโ€™m not sure Iโ€™ll ever want to do comps again!

How can you explain being able to step up your game so significantly?
Honestly, I think a lot of my progress has come from my nutrition. My wife, Hailey, is a nutrition coach for climbers. She has guided me on a nutrition journey that has been life changing. Itโ€™s been excellent for my recovery, energy, and longevity.

Are you fully professional now?
My wife and I own a strength and nutrition coaching company called Off the Ground. Besides that I am lucky to be on salary with a few brands.

Clรฉment Lechaptois has flashed Heritage 8B (+) in Valle Bavona. It was put up as an 8B+ and in the 8a data base, half of the 18 ascents have actually called in 8B+. The 27-year-old has previously done three 8C's and flashed six 8A's.What kind of beta and preparation did you use?
I watched some videos before going to the boulder. Then I watched Marine and Diego trying the problem and Giul gave me the methods he did.

Although, the registration deadline is April 1, already some 200 athletes have signed up to participate in the Meiringen Boulder World Cup 16-17/4. Almost all the big names are there and Japan comes with 14, Slovenia 13 and the USA 10. In 2019, 115 male and 99 female participated.

"All participating athletes, officials and organising staff must submit a negative COVID-19 real-time-PCR test (taken no more than 72 hours prior to the arrival day) to the COVID-19 Outbreak Response Coordinator Doctor, Lea Kistler at [email protected] upon arrival/registration at the event. Confirmation of attendance and Temperature Testing on site."

Life Of Villains 9a by Dru Mack
Dru Mack, who previously has done six 8c+'s, has done Life of Villains 9a in Hurricave which was put up by Joe Kinder.

"I first climbed the ending piece to this route last year, with Flight of The Conchords. I moved here this winter to work at a new climbing gym and just climb a TON. Living here gave me the opportunity to try on and off since about January. A lot of days spread out over those 3 months though! Over the last few weeks, I got a lot more consistent at falling off the last crux. Even falling in the last moves multiple times in a day. The day it came together felt like one of those flow days that everything feels effortless! Jonathan Siegrist came out for the last little bit. Having his energy and support was super helpful! I followed it up with โ€˜86โ€™dโ€™ (8c) and โ€˜Killer Zโ€™ (8b+). My best day ever! (c) Tradisplaid

What is your climbing background?
I grew up climbing in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky since I was like 12 years old. I lived in my van at Miguelโ€™s as soon as I had a drivers license ha! Over the last few years, Iโ€™ve been pursuing climbing full time! Iโ€™ve been able to travel a lot more and just trying to do the hardest sport routes I can!

You did your first 7c+ at age 17 and then your scorecard shows rather slow and steady progress, including a wide pyramid?
Ya, I guess so! Building a pyramid really helps with confidence. Iโ€™m excited to not have a BIG project for a little bit and keep climbing lots of routes!

La thรฉorie des cordes 8c by Nolwen Berthier
Nolwen Berthier has done La thรฉorie des cordes 8c in St Lรฉger. "I have always wanted to do it even if the bottom does not fit my style. I challenge myself to do this route while trying my big project and I decided not to focus on that route. The process would have been faster with another strategy โ€ฆ But the bet was won! To be honest, I don't really know how many session because it was not my main project and I tried it always at the end of the day."

Until 2018, when she was #14 in the Briancon WC, her focus was competitions. During the last year, the 27-year-old has done five 8c's and two 8c+'s and her long term project is Supercrackinette 9a+.