NEWS

Via Google Earth, you can pretty much see pictures of most houses and streets in the world. Now, this service will also include such pictures for hikers as well as climbers in order to get more people into nature. In a unique test, 8a has provided all GPS coordinates of our more than 5 500 crags to Google and they will start taking pictures every day at noon. This means that if you top out a route at noon your picture will be available through Google on the World Wide Web.

If this turns out great, Google will also start filming climbing 24/7 on a gigantic live-stream. IFSC are also involved and there will be judges monitoring special competition crags and via the satellite system, you will see green stars blinking for top-outs 8a and harder. In the longer run, such "green stars" ascent will automatically be recorded in the 8a database. So remember to always look up and give a smile and a thumbs up around noon and you might just go viral.

Here are the poll results, based on almost 1 400 unique answers, to the question What skill do you lack the most?

27% Finger strength
23% Endurance
18% Flexibility
17% Mental
08% Technique
6% Other (Power and Strength most mentioned)

I started out as a junior national coach about 20 years ago and have been coaching since. I agree that W-en it comes to those who have climbed for many years and are focusing on competitions, the results are expected. However, when it comes to rock climbers, I think technique is what is lacking the most. Most older climbers get their ass kicked indoors by the new generation but still, outdoors we can almost keep the same level. One possible reason for the respondents' perceived lack of physical strength is all the online strength coaches out there.

Moritz Welt has done his 13th 9a, Halupca 1979 in Osp/Misja Pec. This was also his 8c and harder #100.

"My main goal for this trip, already some tries back in 2017, luckily only three sessions this time. One of the best I've done so far, various hard moves and lots of styles combined in one route!" (c) Miro Enze

Could you please describe the route
It is about 25m long with about 10m in horizontal roof. I made 3 kneebars but I think even more would be possible. There is actually a second pitch bolted which could possibly add another 8c or 8c+ and make it a 50m cave climb... maybe someone should try that in the future :) The extension has been done from Troja 8a as Couch Surfing 8c+.

What is next?
So it's my last week here and I have one more hard project (Sanski Par 9a) ready for some tries. But I also want to enjoy some easier holiday climbing on my last days :)

La Morenita 8c+ by Martina Demmel (19)
Martina Demmel continues to deliver in Oliana with a second go of Paper Mullat 8b+ and a fourth go of La Morenita 8c+. In total the 19-year-old has during the last two weeks done 30 routes in Oliana and she is a superior #1 among the girls. (c) Toni Mas Buchaca

"Overhanging slab after already getting destroyed in "Marroncita" 8b the first 30 meters without a proper rest to recover before hitting the extension! Unique one move wonder for me with a brutal but amazing shoulder move:) fell twice there not being pumped at all but just a little bit of body tension was missing what made me even happier to send it the next day, 4th try! The last missing piece to start trying my luck on "Joe-cita":)"

How can you explain being in your best shape ever and how is that feeling?
It's still hard to believe for me because it feels like I'm climbing the same way like a year ago but maybe this now is the result of trying lots of different styles over the past few years which helps me with finding my own perfect beta pretty fast๐Ÿ˜‰ but that's just guessing who knows there are so many factors which are playing a part of that especially mentally๐Ÿ™ˆ

Nico Pelorson explains and shows most of the moves of Soudain Seul which he did this weekend suggesting 8C+. There is a second video coming up with the send.

Pelorson gives Soudain Seul 8C+ aka The Big Island sit
Fanatic Climbing have made an interview with Nico Pelorson after his send of Soudain Seul, aka The Big Island sit, where he says he also used a book under his kneepad and that grade-wise, 8C+ feels more consistent. "This is only my opinion and I respect Simonโ€™s one too. Especially since it is not impossible that he had to give it even more effort with his beta for shorter climbers." Nico is 173 cm and FA Simon Lorenzi is 168 cm. (c) Arthur Delicque

Talking to Simon, he says it is cool that Nico also used a book and tells 8a that they partly used different sequences."For me we have to wait for more ascensions to decide the grade. Nico and I didn't try yet other boulders in this style and difficulty so it's hard to tell where is the truth, I think."

In the interview, Nico says he started working on it in 2019 and that he has been working it hard the two last winters. "At first, I was doing about 2 sessions per week on the boulder, with training sessions in between. Towards the end, between sessions I was working on my physiotherapy end-of-study internship in a rehabilitation center."

Andy "Peter" Lamb has made his second 8B flash, Butterfly effect in Clear Creek Canyon. "For both Blackout and Butterfly Effect, I watched videos of other people, and they looked like a style that would fit me well, and pretty straightforward, so I thought I should give it a good first try. On Blackout, I went there once before the day I tried it to look at the holds. I didn't do that much special preparation for them otherwise, just made sure I was warmed up well, the holds were brushed and ticked, and I knew the sequence I'd try.

Also, Butterfly Effect is a pretty new climb. Everyone else that did it said it was around 8b, but I don't know what the final consensus would be."