31 March 2021
Half lack physique but is it true?
Here are the poll results, based on almost 1 400 unique answers, to the question What skill do you lack the most?
27% Finger strength
23% Endurance
18% Flexibility
17% Mental
08% Technique
6% Other (Power and Strength most mentioned)
I started out as a junior national coach about 20 years ago and have been coaching since. I agree that W-en it comes to those who have climbed for many years and are focusing on competitions, the results are expected. However, when it comes to rock climbers, I think technique is what is lacking the most. Most older climbers get their ass kicked indoors by the new generation but still, outdoors we can almost keep the same level. One possible reason for the respondents' perceived lack of physical strength is all the online strength coaches out there.
27% Finger strength
23% Endurance
18% Flexibility
17% Mental
08% Technique
6% Other (Power and Strength most mentioned)
I started out as a junior national coach about 20 years ago and have been coaching since. I agree that W-en it comes to those who have climbed for many years and are focusing on competitions, the results are expected. However, when it comes to rock climbers, I think technique is what is lacking the most. Most older climbers get their ass kicked indoors by the new generation but still, outdoors we can almost keep the same level. One possible reason for the respondents' perceived lack of physical strength is all the online strength coaches out there.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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