NEWS

Stil vor Talent 8C by Christof Rauch
Christof Rauch has done Stil vor Talent (8C) in Magic Wood. In total, the 27-year-old has now done twelve 8C's and more than 800 boulders 8A and harder.

How was the process taking it down?
I knew most of the moves from La Grosse Toulouse, so I had a short session where I checked the crux it and found some good beta for myself. Then I had another small session where I did the stand, the next session I failed at the last crux and the session after I did it. Props to Giani (Clement) for this cool addition to one of my favourite blocs! Just in time before the top out got wet. Special thanks to my girl Julia for the support.

Pure Dreaming Plus 9a+ by Alex Ventajas
Alex Ventajas has done his first 9a+, in Arco. (c) Diego Borello

"After doing โ€œUndergroundโ€ and โ€œPure dreaming,โ€ I thought about trying the connection between the two lines, but I preferred to consolidate the grade doing few more routes around 8c+ and 9a before trying a 9a+. This lasts weeks I felt en real good shape and I went to Pueblo in Arco to start climbing again on the routes, remembering the moves and trying the part that connects the two. Step by step, without rush and keeping climbing others โ€œshort-term projectโ€.

After doing โ€œReiniโ€™s Vibesโ€ quite quickly I thought: why not start give real tries to my biggest project from the start? After seven attempt (four days) In total, I managed to get to the top of the route, doing my first 9a+. Of course I already knew most of the moves, so the process was quite short, but this line needs very focused mind and great endurance. I loved to climb it and I think itโ€™s a good way to debut in the grade."
More info on his Insta.

Killian Chabrier has done Dreamtime 8B+ (C) in Cresciano, Insta video. "I just needed two sessions to do Dreamtime the first mythical โ€œ8Cโ€ Boulder, maybe one of the best Boulder Iโ€™ve tried. Really happy to do it despite a bit of pressure caused by the bad weather. For the grade, I saw that rรฉpรฉtitors are hesitating between 8b+ and 8c, for me, it is more like an 8b+ hard. Now Iโ€™m hoping for good weather to do The Story of Two World where I did all moves very quickly."

Dreamtime was put up by Fred Nicole as the first 8C in the world. Later it was downgraded but due to a broken hold back to 8C again. Then a new sequence was found and 8B+ suggestion come along. In practice, this means that Dreamtime should not be considered the first 8C in the world, which Chabrier's quick ascent and thought confirms.

Circo Total 9a by Kymy de la Pena
Kymy de la Pena has done his sixth 9a, Circo Total in . "It is a line that has always motivated me and this year I felt very fit and decided to go for it. It must be being a father that made me feel good ๐Ÿ˜‚." (c) MD Varo

Blackout 8B by Allison Vest
Allison Vest has done her third 8B, Blackout in Gallery, after just three sessions. The last week she has also sent Black #1 8A+ as well as two 8A's.

"I had a great time trying Blackout. It suits me and my love of teeny crimps and big moves really well. Each session I went there, someone I was with sent it so I was really motivated and inspired to put it together myself. I had to get creative and really convince myself I wanted to grab the tiny holds, but, stoked I made it work. I was there with (c) Alex Johnson that day who is also super closeโ€ฆ her send is up next!"

How did you get into and out off that amazing position in the picture?
You end up with your right hand on the edge just before and rose move under to that big side pull. Then, match it to unwind!

How can you explain being in your best shape ever?
Iโ€™ve had a few overlapping leg injuries for the past several months so Iโ€™ve been doing a lot of work on lock-offs (my weakness) and hangboarding (my strength). As a result, my fingers feel the strongest they ever have and I can use them more efficiently because of the lock off training. Also, it has been a long time since Iโ€™ve felt like Iโ€™ve been able to climb and try as hard as I can because of minor tweaks and injuries so Iโ€™m super motivated right now. And, just grateful to be outside. That mental space has allowed me to clean up past boulders that Iโ€™ve left undone as well as some surprise sends on new ones.

Omaha Beach 8b+ flash by Annie Sanders (14)
Anastasia (Annie) Sanders, who got three golds at the last Youth World Championship, reports on Insta that she has flashed Omaha Beach 8b+ in Red River Gorge (KY). During her one week trip she also did another seven 8a and harder out of which most flash or onsight. (c) Logan Zhang

Tie in mistakes are comon
Based on 1 500+ unique votes to, Have you made a tie in mistake?, we can see that only 43 % have never made a mistake. One good piece of advice is to never disturb the climber tieing in. You should absolutely not ask for beta or if he/she could get the chalk bag or quick draws etc. The belayer should always check the knot or ask the climber to check by saying - On belay!, before starting to climb.

Magnus Midtbo, #4 in the Lead World Championship in Arco in 2011, started his Youtube channel in March 2017. In April, 8a made two posts sharing his videos. However, already in 2016, we made news about his Facebook training video that had gotten 570' views in five days. In April 2018, he had some 38 000 subscribers and in June 2019, he had the biggest rock climbing Youtube channel with 351 000 subscribers. Now he has more than 1 million, which is almost three times as many as the runner up, EpicTV and just over three times as many as Adam Ondra. The 33-year-old Norwegian did his first 9a in 2007 and in total, he has logged 17 up to 9b in his 8a scorecard.