Blackout 8B by Allison Vest

Friday, 29 October

Allison Vest has done her third 8B, Blackout in Joes Valley, after just three sessions. The last week she has also sent Black #1 8A+ as well as two 8A's.

"I had a great time trying Blackout. It suits me and my love of teeny crimps and big moves really well. Each session I went there, someone I was with sent it so I was really motivated and inspired to put it together myself. I had to get creative and really convince myself I wanted to grab the tiny holds, but, stoked I made it work. I was there with (c) Alex Johnson that day who is also super close… her send is up next!"

How did you get into and out off that amazing position in the picture?
You end up with your right hand on the edge just before and rose move under to that big side pull. Then, match it to unwind!

How can you explain being in your best shape ever?
I’ve had a few overlapping leg injuries for the past several months so I’ve been doing a lot of work on lock-offs (my weakness) and hangboarding (my strength). As a result, my fingers feel the strongest they ever have and I can use them more efficiently because of the lock off training. Also, it has been a long time since I’ve felt like I’ve been able to climb and try as hard as I can because of minor tweaks and injuries so I’m super motivated right now. And, just grateful to be outside. That mental space has allowed me to clean up past boulders that I’ve left undone as well as some surprise sends on new ones.

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