NEWS

Eva Hammelmรผller does two 8c+โ€™ in Mallorca
Eva Hammelmรผller has sent Odisey (8c+) and Mallorkaos L2 (8c+) in Mallorca. During her last four climbing days, the 24-year-old did also send four 8b+ or 8cโ€™s. (c) Lea Kempf

Can you tell us more about your trip to Mallorca and your most memborable ascents?
The hardest route I sent this week was โ€šOdiseyโ€˜ 8c+. Climbing this massive line was a totally new experience for me, as I had never ever climbed in such a steep roof before. I loved the process of figuring out in which sequences itโ€™s easier to climb feet first, and how many 360 degree turns you need to save as much energy as possible, as the crux part is right at the end of the roof. The hardest move for me was the nerve-wracking and powerful dyno into a good pocket over the roof edge.l In order to keep it together all the way to the top, I needed to fight not only my pumped forearms but as well my biceps and core pump.๐Ÿ˜‚ Checked it out one day and sent it first go on my second day!!! Despite the chipped holds in the roof, I had SO MUCH FUN in this line!!! In this crag, I could also do the first repetition of 'Guiris go homeโ€˜ 8c/+ after a hold broke, which created a cool 2-move boulder problem that cost me quite some nerves on the first day. :D

Probably my favourite route of this trip was 'Mallorkaos L2โ€˜. This route is not only demanding regarding finger strength on crimps and pockets, but as well concerning powerful moves, underclings and gastons. When I first checked it out, it for sure felt like 8c+, but I then sent it surprisingly quickly on my third go - that's why I am not 100% sure about the grade. In coordination with local climbers, we propose 8c+, but curious what other climbers will think! Anyway, AMAZING climb and thanks a lot to the local climbing community for the warm welcome and the hospitality!! <3

On the same day at the very end after climbing another 8b+, I tried โ€šXulitaโ€˜ 8b+/c just because the line looked amazing. However, I somehow managed to fall while clipping the second quickdraw due to a footslip and found myself back on the ground. At that point, I found it very funny, and just started againโ€ฆ and then, I didnโ€™t fall all the way to the top!! This could have been my hardest flash if I had focused a bit more in the beginning. Well, I guess I learned my lesson :D. Thanks to Julie for shouting up all the beta despite a sore throat, you are the best!

To sum up, I had such a great week, thanks team, thanks girls, and thanks again to everyone we met at the crags for the hospitality!

Maya Madere ticks Chocolate Jesus (8B)
Maya Madere, who started out her IFSC season by being #21 in Lead in China, has sent Chocolate Jesus (8B) in Wild Basin. โ€My first of the grade and an absolute stunner of a boulder. The small box crux suited me very well. Properly utilizing the large but deceptively slippery right foot during the lip encounter was very tricky for me.โ€

Can you tell us more about sending your first 8B?
I owe much credit for this send to my dear friend Helen Gillett, who brought me to Chocolate Jesus and encouraged me to try despite my protestations (I had been intimidated by the grade and avoided trying this boulder for some time). To my surprise it actually suited me very well. I did the leftward shoulder move usually considered to be the crux fairly quickly, but struggled mightily with the lip encounter. Tragically, that very session Helen popped a pulley on a devastatingly close burn with both hands over the lip. I vowed to return and send in her honor, which I successfully did after 2 more sessions.

USA Climbing successfully transitions to the Vertical-Life Result Service
Weโ€™re excited to announce that USA Climbing has successfully transitioned all their competitions to the Vertical-Life platform starting in October 2025. The collaboration covers the complete competition workflow โ€” including registrations, payments, event scoring, and public score displays. This marks a major step forward in streamlining event operations and enhancing the experience for athletes, officials, and the wider climbing community.

โ€œUSA Climbing recently transitioned its results service platform to Vertical-Life. As with any major system change, the process can be both complex and demanding. Vertical-Lifeโ€™s team made the transition remarkably smooth โ€” working tirelessly alongside our staff and volunteers, addressing challenges in real time, and demonstrating a strong commitment to ongoing development and customization. Weโ€™re excited to partner with such a dedicated and innovative company as we continue to enhance the experience for our athletes, officials, and community.โ€

โ€” John Muse, Chief of Sport | USA Climbing

Since the launch, more than 12,900 athletes have already registered through the system, and 96 events have taken place. Weโ€™re proud to support USA Climbing in their mission to elevate the sport and look forward to continuing this strong partnership. Explore live results at usac.results.info, learn more about USA Climbing at usaclimbing.org, and discover the Vertical-Life Result Service.


Laura Rogora onsights La Ligne Claire (8c+)
Laura Rogora has had an extraordinary day in Saint Lรฉger, onsighting La ligne claire (8c+), La tournรฉe du patron L1 (8b+) and Abregenief (8b). (c) Jan Novak

Can you tell us more about the 8c+ onsight and how close you were to fall?
I climbed quite well in the first crux and in the traverse, while in the end I had a little bit of hesitation but I was never extremely close to fall maybe.

In July, the Italian climber onsighted Ultimate Sacrifice (8c+), and this year she has onsighted another two 8cโ€™s and a couple of 8b+โ€™s. In practice, this means that the number three in the 2025 Lead World Cup has the best onsight track record of the year. When it comes to All Time High onsights, only Adam Ondra and Alex Megos have more impressive stats.

As for 9a and harder redpoints in 2025, the 24-year-old has sent nine. In other words, Laura is a contender for having the best overall route ticklist of this year.

Lara Trinkl does Crusher sit (8B)
Lara Trinkl, who previously in 2025 has sent a dozen boulders 8A or 8A+, has completed Crusher sit (8B) in Mixnitz.

Can you tell us more about doing your first 8B?
I tried the stand start a few times in the last one or two years but a few weeks ago decided to just go for the sit, even though I never did the stand. In my opinion it is a better line that just adds one hard move that fit me really well. I was so nervous on the day I sent it because it really felt like I could do it. I am really happy about the send and it means a lot to me.

What are your winter plans?
I just want to spend as much time bouldering outdoors as possible and hopefully try as many good boulders as I can, so no concrete new projects yet ๐Ÿ˜Š

Christopher Cosser climbs Ace of Spades (9a+)
Christopher Cosser, who placed 16th in the Tokyo Olympics, has done Ace of Spades (9a+) in Poptire Cave. The South African did his first two 8C boulders last year, after he retired from the competition scene. Ten weeks ago he sent Creature From the Black Lagoon (8C+) and in September Moonshine (9a). (c) Finn Stack

Can you tell us more about doing your first 9a+?
The process on Ace of Spades started for me in 2021 when I first came to the US. It was actually the first route I got on in the States. Ive tried the route a few days every season, but never invested enough time to see the process through until now. Competition climbing and training for comps kept me preoccupied. Earlier this year I got my Green Card, moved to Colorado, and decided to fully commit myself to climbing outside instead of competing. I fairly quickly was able to put together Creature From the Black Lagoon, and then set my sights on routes. Returning back to Ace was a pretty easy learning curve. Unfortunately since the last time Iโ€™d been on it, a couple of key holds had broken, one of them being a crucial foot in the first boulder and the other being a resting hold before the final boulder. Fortunately those breaks didnโ€™t prevent me from doing the route, but made it constantly harder.

Doing Ace of Spades and Creature makes me the first South African to have climbed 5.15a, as well as the first to have climbed v16. I couldnโ€™t have done it without the resources available to me in the US. Iโ€™m incredibly proud of where Iโ€™m from, and I hope that this can inspire my community back home, who are pushing the local level higher and higher. Iโ€™m now back in Colorado, with my eyes set on some stellar routes and boulders nearby.

At the European Cup in Toulouse, France secured all three medals in the menโ€™s category, with Camille Pouget impressively winning each of the three rounds. In the junior events, Italy delivered best results followed by France.

Seniors: Leo Avezou FRA - Camille Pouget FRA
U-19: Gianluca Vighetti ITA - Matilda Moar ITA
U-17: Andrea Chelleris ITA - Rafael Kazbekova UKR
Complete results

Celine Mehouas completes Cosi Fan Tutte (8c+)
Celine Mehouas has sent Cosi Fan Tutte (8c+) in Rodellar. The 34-year-old did her first 8c just 18 months ago.

Can you tell us more about doing your first 8c+?
My awesome friend Caro Minvielle motivated me to come and see her big project with her: Cosi at the Piscineta sector in Rodellar. This superb route is a 55m pitch on a steep overhang above the water; the setting is fabulous. I was immediately hooked, especially since itโ€™s more fun with a partnerโ€”we motivate each other! So there I was, off to try the route, which was practically handed to me on a silver platter with all the most optimized techniques Caro had discovered!

I went for the first time during a two-week stay, but it wasnโ€™t long enough to absorb all the effort and techniques needed to send it. A short two-week break followed, due to work and specific training. Back to Rodellar for the All Saintsโ€™ Day holidays to climb with friends and return to the route. After a short week of working on the route with Fรฉlix, I was finally dialed in perfectly and had rested the day before. Caro and I motivated each other to go up the route together. We thought it was the last day of trials for the season because the conditions were starting to get too wet and cold for me, but on the last attempt of the day, the magic of climbing worked. I felt relaxed and fit, and everything went perfectly all the way to the belay in such an unexpected and magical way that itโ€™s in moments like these that you know why you climb, to achieve these dreamlike sensations!

How can you best explain your great progress the last two years?
I think that in recent years Iโ€™ve simply done more cliffs and a little less paragliding, skiing, and other activities. And that my friends motivated me to try harder routes.

Mejdi Schalck flashes Casavino (8B+)
Mejdi Schalck, who won silver at last monthโ€™s World Championship, has flashed Casavino (8B+) at Brione. The 21-year-old posted a great uncut video of the ascent on his Instagram. Mejdi has previously climbed multiple 8C boulders and 9a routes, including Es Pontas (9a+).

How did you betawise prepare for the flash.
I didnโ€™t prepare that much haha. A friend gave me the beta and I tried. He sent it in front of me.

What are your winter plans and will you focus on comps also in 2026?
Yes, but I will do a lot of outdoors too this year! Winter plans is a trip to US!

Laura Rogora ticks two 9a+ and a 9a
Laura Rogora has during some rainy and wet days in Saint Lรฉger managed to onsight Le concept (8b+) and send Supercrackinette (9a+), L'Enfumette (8c+), 3rd go, and Le Cadafist (9a). Today she also sent La Castagne (9a+). (c) Jan Novak

Can you tell us more about your 9a ascents?
My first days in Saint-Lรฉger were quite rainy and the only climbable route was Super Crackinette. On the first day, I checked out the moves, but the next day the first part was wet, so I reached the crux with wet hands and couldnโ€™t really try. On my third day on the route, it was finally dry but during my first attempt, I made a small mistake at the crux. I sent it on my second try of the day.

[Le Cadafist] I did three attempts one day but the start and a pinch on the first crux was wet, anyway on my third attempt i almost get out the crux but then I slipped because I had wet hands. I took a day of rest hoping it would dry. The pinch stayed wet but I knew that it was possible even like this so I tried anyway and unexpectedly sent it on my first go of the day.

[La Castagne] A few days ago, at the end of the day, I put on the quickdraws and looked a bit at the holds, but the initial boulder felt quite hard to me. Then, the day before yesterday, after doing Lโ€™Enfumetteโ€”since it was one of the few routes that were quite dryโ€”I decided to get back on it. I did two laps and figured out all the beta. The next day, I did a go to check the movements again, and on the go after that, I came very close but made a mistake at the end of the boulder. I sent it on the next lap.

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