Paul Robinson does two 8C’s

Paul Robinson, who did his first 8C, out of 26, almost 18 years ago, has sent Sound of Violence (8C) in Left Fork and Turpentine (Post Break) (8C) in Coal Creek Canyon. In 2021, he had two discs replaced. ”I think the reason that I had to get the surgery was partly due to my genetics as well as taking 23 years of falls from bouldering. I did the surgery because I love pushing myself in climbing. I love trying to push myself to climb some of the hardest boulders in the world and if I did not get the surgery I would never be able to climb that hard again."

Can you tell us more about those 8C ascents?
When I came up with my list of climbs for my “Final Project,” video series, two of the most important climbs to me were, “Sound of Violence,” and “Turpentine.” Both of these climbs I had tried many many times before and had become epics over the years. Having come agonizingly close to both, I felt this absolute need to send them!

After a good training block in September and early October, I set my first objective on “Sound of Violence,” in Joe’s Valley. As per annual tradition, I set out for Utah over Halloween and on day 1 was pleasantly surprised to do the full upper sequence very quickly. I packed up my shoes and decided to rest the remainder of the day and come back the next day for send burns.

The following day, I warmed up and sent the line on my second try. Knowing my training had paid off felt so good and also had me itching to head home to start trying “Turpentine.”

As the weather cooled at home, I began trying “Turpentine,” agin. My first session went really well and my second session back I nearly sent! The weather however quickly changed and the temps dropped to below freezing for a week straight. I tried in the freezing cold but couldn’t get the friction I needed to send. After Thanksgiving, I saw a day on the forecast that reached 34° f [1 degree] at the boulder. Even though it was too cold, my psyche was too high to not try. I warmed up at home and as soon as I got to the boulder, I started trying it so as to not numb out. After a few mishaps, I made it to the crux and stared down the final move. Bam! I stuck it. I couldn’t believe it and climbed it to the easy top out.

I feel very happy for the momentum I have now and can’t wait for the next project on the list. Once this big storm passes and the snow melts, I think I will set my sights on “Freak Show,” another V15 in the same area as “Turpentine,” my backyard of Coal Creek Canyon.

How come you think you are peaking again? How do you train nowadays?
I think good training and concentration on my diet. I am not 25 anymore so I need to be careful with what I eat. I am almost exclusively training on the tb2. That board is incredible. I switched my home wall to a spray wall to try and mimic outdoor climbing more. Trying to build finger strength!