NEWS

Ganesh 8C+ by Elias Iagnemma
Elias Iagnemma, who already in 2022 has done two 8C's, has made the FA of Ganesh 8C+ in Tintorale. He found it in May and projected it for some 12-15 sessions. Currently, there exist some 20 boulders graded 8C+ or 9A in the world, including Gioia which was his hardest prior to this FA. More info on his Insta.

In 2018 he won the Italian Bouldering Championship and he has also tried some World Cups. Then he took a break from competitions, partly due to some injuries, and only focused on outdoors. In 2022, he possibly will start doing some World Cups again.

Petra Klingler Ice World Champion
Petra Klingler from Switzerland has won the Ice Climbing World Championships in Saas Fee. The Boulder World Champion in 2016, who was #16 in the Tokyo Olympics, was the only female to top the final route. Among the male, Louna Ladevant from France won. (c) Vladek Zumr

Siamo giร  arrabbiati 8A+ by Gianluca Vighetti (13)
Gianluca Vighetti, who last year became the first 12-year-old to have done a 9a, has done Siamo giร  arrabbiati (8A+)
in Novalesa - Apecar. It was originally considered 8B, video, but Gianluca thinks it is more 8A/+.

"Last Sunday I went to Novalesa to try the low start of Altrimenti ci arrabbiamo, called Siamo giร  arrabbiati 8a/+, and I did it on my first go but I already knew the upper part. This boulder is pretty my style because it is very technical, with a lot of heel locks and different betas."

What are your plan and ambition for 2022?
I will focus more on competitions. I'd like to take part in the Youth World Championship in the USA and in the European Youth Cup in boulder and lead. On the rock, my goals for 2022 are 9a+ and 8b onsight in lead and 8B and 7C flash in boulder. (c) Nicolรฒ Conterno

Der mit dem fels tanzt 8C by Elias Iagnemma
Elias Iagnemma has done Der mit dem Fels tanzt (8C) in Chironico. Including also Ninja Skills sit-start (8C) in Sobrio, which he did three weeks ago, the 26-year-old has now done ten boulders 8C and harder the last two years. Here is a new video including seven 8A+ to 8B+ from last summer. (c) Stefania Colomba

You write on Insta that you rested 90 min before trying again?
I rested so long because I fell off the slab..I had to recover๐Ÿ˜…. Both physically and mentally ๐Ÿคฏ I needed some time to find the right physical and mental stimulus after I fell when the bouldering was practically done. I wanted to get back completely in perfect condition so as not to fail an other attempt at the exit.

What is next?
My next project is a boulder that I discovered and cleaned near my house. It is a breathtaking line, and as regards the grade it could be around 8C+.

Direct North 8B+ and The Mandala 8A+ by Katie Lamb
Katie Lamb has done in Buttermilks. "Right hand to the boiter, all incuts at the top feeling like a hero." In the 8a ranking game, she is #1.

Three weeks ago, the 23-year-old did her third 8B+, also in Buttermilks. "It climbs right out the bubble bulge on Grandma... long and crimpy. I caught a day warm enough to not numb out on the top. Winter has come." (c) Keenan Takahashi

Iur 8B+ and Heritage 8B by Brooke Raboutou
Brooke Raboutou, who was #5 in the Olympics, reports on Insta that she on her "last days best days" has done Iur (8B+) in Cresciano and Heritage 8B in Val Bavona. (c) Finn Stack

The 20-year-old did her first 8A over ten years ago and just the last two years she has done more than 40 up to 8B+. Her older brother Shawn has also been one of the best boulderers out there for several years. Their mother is Robin Erbesfield, one of the very best female climbers in the 90's who for several years has run ABC Kids Climbing where she has coached; Emily Harrington, Margo Hayes, Colin Duffy and Natalia Grossman. Their father is Didier Raboutou who also was one of the leading climbers during the 90'ies.

Dreamtime 8C (B+) by Andy "Peter" Lamb
Andy Lamb has done Dreamtime 8C (B+) in Cresciano. "This is my first trip to Ticino, and Dreamtime was one of the ones I wanted to do most. I flashed the stand (8A+), then took a few more sessions to get the bottom dialed and have energy to do it from the bottom. Psyched to do this mega classic!"

Last year he did two 8C's and one 8C+, During the last two years, he has also flashed two 8B's and three 8A+. In the 8a ranking game, he is #7 also including Tomba (8B+) in Valle Bavona, which he did yesterday.

Adam Ondra has done the first repeat of Trofeo dell'Adriatico (9a+) in Arco. In total, the 28-year-old has now done 69 routes 9a+ to 9c.

"Amazing line, one of the best in the grade. Great vision by David (Lama) for bolting and a lot of work by Gabri (Moroni) to clean and send it. I found a kneebar just before the crux that makes the route a bit easier, but still 9a+ for sure. The way that Gabri it did is pretty hard for 9a+ for sure! I tried it some years ago when it was still a project and totally dirty, this year I was really close to sending first day, but in the end I had to wait for another day with fresh skin and power when I did it on my first real go of the day."

Casi Mono 9a by Loic Zehani
Loic Zehani, who previously in 2022 has done one 9a+, one 9a and two 8c+, has sent Casi mono (9a) in Courchon. "It's a magnificent route in a big overhang of 20 meters. After a very physical approach, there is a rest and then comes the hard section of the route. A dozen movements on pockets (one and two fingers pockets). After that, there is a rest with a knee to finish with a magnificent physical exit. It took me 4 sessions (about ten climbs). Now I'm going to try a direct version, much harder lower and prettier."

The 20-year-old has now done 41 routes 9a and harder which means there are only a dozen, much older, climbers who are ahead of him on that list.