7 March 2022
Biologico 9a by Alex Ventajas
Alex Ventajas has done Biologico (9a) in Narango. "Incredible moves in an incredible place. Six days of projecting." (c) Andrea Ferrari
"This route caught my attention since the first time I went to Narango. I saw a friend trying it and it seemed a really powerful and esthetic route. When I came back to this amazing sector a couple of months ago I decided to put my hands on it. I started by sending the 8c that shares the upper part with โBiologicoโ and then I started to try the 9a.
The route is quite short, with an easy start, followed by the boulder sequence that gives the grade of the route: some very small crimps in an overhanging wall and then a dynamic move, where great coordination is essential. After a rest there is a second boulder problem and finally some endurance climbing to reach the top.
I think itโs a very futuristic route, because the hardest part is very short, but very demanding and the first boulder sequence reminds me a boulder of the present-day competitions! Furthermore, itโs the first time I actually noticed, in a sport climbing route, that size can make a little difference: the method used by other climbers werenโt good for me, because I was too short to reach some crimps with the good foothold in the first boulder and I needed to use some very bad intermediate holds in the second one too.
Finally, I managed to find my own way to the top and I really enjoyed the process. After three days trying it I felt close, but for a few more days I kept missing the hold after the dynamic move. Last Saturday, the day when I was supposed to rest because my hands where skinned, I actually felt like it was going to be the right day to send it. At 4 p.m., after a day spent belaying, I had the strange feeling that I was warmed up. So I decided to give the route a try, and it was the perfect attempt! I send the route after 7 days of attempts (and few days more for freeing the 8c โBibita Biologicaโ) "
The 22-year-old did his first 9a some nine months ago and in total, he has now done five and one 9a+. As a matter of a fact, during 2018 and 2019 his max grade was 8c. His climbing has taken a leap since he moved to Italy where his girlfriend lives.
"Unfortunately I didnโt have the possibility to try new hard routes (in Spain). Thatโs because I had already done almost every route in the climbing sectors I could reach from my home, I didnโt have a car and I didnโt have the possibility to travel. That wasnโt a good period for me, I couldnโt improve and I couldnโt try something motivating. Since I moved to Italy things have changed, I have thousands of new routes around and I have progressively regained shape and motivation."
"This route caught my attention since the first time I went to Narango. I saw a friend trying it and it seemed a really powerful and esthetic route. When I came back to this amazing sector a couple of months ago I decided to put my hands on it. I started by sending the 8c that shares the upper part with โBiologicoโ and then I started to try the 9a.
The route is quite short, with an easy start, followed by the boulder sequence that gives the grade of the route: some very small crimps in an overhanging wall and then a dynamic move, where great coordination is essential. After a rest there is a second boulder problem and finally some endurance climbing to reach the top.
I think itโs a very futuristic route, because the hardest part is very short, but very demanding and the first boulder sequence reminds me a boulder of the present-day competitions! Furthermore, itโs the first time I actually noticed, in a sport climbing route, that size can make a little difference: the method used by other climbers werenโt good for me, because I was too short to reach some crimps with the good foothold in the first boulder and I needed to use some very bad intermediate holds in the second one too.
Finally, I managed to find my own way to the top and I really enjoyed the process. After three days trying it I felt close, but for a few more days I kept missing the hold after the dynamic move. Last Saturday, the day when I was supposed to rest because my hands where skinned, I actually felt like it was going to be the right day to send it. At 4 p.m., after a day spent belaying, I had the strange feeling that I was warmed up. So I decided to give the route a try, and it was the perfect attempt! I send the route after 7 days of attempts (and few days more for freeing the 8c โBibita Biologicaโ) "
The 22-year-old did his first 9a some nine months ago and in total, he has now done five and one 9a+. As a matter of a fact, during 2018 and 2019 his max grade was 8c. His climbing has taken a leap since he moved to Italy where his girlfriend lives.
"Unfortunately I didnโt have the possibility to try new hard routes (in Spain). Thatโs because I had already done almost every route in the climbing sectors I could reach from my home, I didnโt have a car and I didnโt have the possibility to travel. That wasnโt a good period for me, I couldnโt improve and I couldnโt try something motivating. Since I moved to Italy things have changed, I have thousands of new routes around and I have progressively regained shape and motivation."
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