NEWS

Dreamtime 8C and Casavino 8B+ by Tristan Chen
Tristan Chen has done Dreamtime (8C) in Cresciano. "I cannot think of a dream to climb this boulder, but my fingers have felt and grappled in the waking world." The 25-year-old did directly afterwards send Casavino (8B+), giving it a personal 8B grade. "Two sessions for a combined total of one hour, absolutely on top of the world riding right now. Versace did me dirty but about to hit Amber, the session lives boys. Edit two hours later: no dice on the factorial so I cannot justify taking fourteen for this."

Can you tell us a little more about your ascents?
Early in my trip, I was distracted trying some easier climbs, so I just went once a week. But after two weeks I decided to focus my efforts and started going every other day, so six sessions overall. It was quite helpful that many of the locals were trying it as well so I had pads and beta ready at the boulder. I was originally trying the dyno beta, but one of the days I was there only the pod hold was wet so I had to try the other betas. The lock-off felt easier to me and was similar to the crux of Dominator in Yosemite so I had some idea how to do it.

Also, I'm not sure if it is a difference between the Font and Hueco rating systems, but, at least in the upper grades, the climbs I've tried seem to be a bit spongier (softer). Dreamtime is known for being on the lower end of 8C, but Casavino is not yet known for being soft and I sent right after Dreamtime in only an hour between two sessions.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done and Estado critico (9a), out of the latter he thinks is 8c+/9a. The 22-year-old has now done 54 routes 8c+/9a and harder which puts him as #8 on that list. In the 8a ranking game, the Spaniard is #2 after Adam Ondra. Interview from last week - Do not obsess over goals.

Eagle-4 9b (a+) by Pierre Le Cerf
Pierre Le Cerf reports on Insta that he has repeated Adam Ondra's Eagle-4 (9b) in , giving it a personal 9a+ grade. It should be mentioned that Ondra hesitated whether Eagle-4 was 9a+ or 9b. (c) Adrien Boulon

The 21-year-old has previously done nine routes 8c+/9a and harder including one 9a+. At the same time, he has been an active competition climber since 2015 and in both 2018 and 2019, he won a Euro Boulder Youth Cup.

Katie Lamb has made an impressive flash of Diaphanous Sea 8A (+) in Hueco Tanks (TX). "Lil solo mish first day in the tanks. Making it happen. Have you ever bun a hueco tank." Later the 24-year-old also tried to to flash Nagual (8B) but settled for a redpoint. "Beautiful line and colors, a wall meant for scaling. Wanted the flash bad bad... so much left to learn. Mega!"

In the last 12 months, Katie has done her three first 8B+, and she is a superior #1 in the 8a ranking game.

La Negra 9a by Loic Zehani
Loic Zehani has during one week in Alicante done nine routes 8c and harder including La negra (9a) and a flash of Sesion de control (8c). In total, the 20-year-old has done almost 200 routes 8c to 9b, out of which 54 just the last 12 months. "La Negra is a route redpointed by Pedro Pons in 2001. It is 12 meters in a big overhang. It's very powerful all the route with a really hard 2/3 section."

IFSC has presented the 2022 rules including the point scoring system for the Combined events. As has been mentioned before, you get 25 points for doing a boulder on the first attempt and 24.9 for doing it on the second try etc. If you only make it to the first zone you get 3 points and 6 points are awarded for the second Zone, deducted also with 0.1 points per try. The results for every boulder will be presented in four columns and here is an example: A7 z2 Z3 T5 = 24.6 points (7 Attempts in total, 2 attempts to the first zone, 3 attempts to the second Zone and 4 attempts to the Top.)

On the Lead route, 100 points are awarded for topping out including clipping the anchor. A climber getting to the second last hold will get 95 points and 95.1 is awarded for getting a + on the second last hold. The 5 points deduction continues to hold -15 relatively to the top, meaning you get 25 points. Then a 2 points deduction continues to hold -25 (= scoring 5 points) followed by a 1 point deduction.

La Bavarese 8b+ MP by Alex Huber (53)
Alex Huber, one of the very best climbers during the '90s, has made the FA of La Bavarese V, 8a+, 8b+, 8b, 8b+, 7b+ at Punta Giraldili in Sardinia. The 53-year-old is known for his hard grades. In 1996 he made the FA of Open Air and the only repeat has been done by Adam Ondra who upgraded, meaning it became the first 9a+ in the world. Alex has also made several FA's on El Capitan as well as several speed records. At that time he also said the 9b FA by Fred Rouhling and the 9b+ FA by Bernabe Fernandez had exaggerated grades and caused the grade inflation. Time has shown he was right. (c) Riky Felderer

"The Ogliastra on the central east coast of Sardinia is a climbers paradise - you find amazing walls and striking spires and you could say that nothing compares to the Grutta Pintata, the giant roof on the South Face of Punta Giradili. Throughout all these years in the mountains, I haven't seen any other big overhang of similar dimensions. Meant to be climbed!

Right through the centre of this overhang leads the new route "La Bavarese" which I opened ground up one year ago. In October I came back with the intention to free climb its six pitches, but too much rain made a completely free ascent impossible - I had to come back and thatยดs exactly what I did! The first three pitches ( V / 8a+ / 8b+ ) of โ€žLa Bavareseโ€œ follow the route "Nikรฉ" of Jan Kares - a line that still awaits a free ascent. The third pitch is the first crux - a short and bouldery pitch! With the fourth pitch, my creation "La Bavarese" leaves the route of Jan Kares and follows the line of least resistance. Another round of wildly overhanging roof climbing on three more pitches ( 8b / 8b+ / 7b+). The support of the local climbers was essential. Riky Felderer was only in charge to shoot these amazing pictures, but he was constantly supporting my efforts as well as he was my partner on the final redpoint ascent on the 5th of February."


What about training nowadays?
No more training as I never was really motivated to go to climbing gyms. But I climb regularly and do that whenever this is possible. Climbing itself is still effective training ๐Ÿ˜Š

Frank's seduto  8A+ by Karoline Sinnhuber
Karoline Sinnhuber has done Frank's seduto in Cresciano. "Went down quite quick after sending the normal Frank in December. Nice add to the original line."

What about your Insta Ninja Warriors pictures?
Well, I competed at Ninja Warrior Austria just for fun. Surprisingly I buzzered in the first round and made it to the semifinal - where I finally landed in the water :P. I didnโ€˜t like the "rule" that youโ€˜re not allowed to use chalk on those slippery obstacles... as a climber you might understand that pretty well ;)