Dreamtime 8C and Casavino 8B+ by Tristan Chen

Tristan Chen has done Dreamtime (8C) in Cresciano. "I cannot think of a dream to climb this boulder, but my fingers have felt and grappled in the waking world." The 25-year-old did directly afterwards send Casavino (8B+), giving it a personal 8B grade. "Two sessions for a combined total of one hour, absolutely on top of the world riding right now. Versace did me dirty but about to hit Amber, the session lives boys. Edit two hours later: no dice on the factorial so I cannot justify taking fourteen for this."

Can you tell us a little more about your ascents?
Early in my trip, I was distracted trying some easier climbs, so I just went once a week. But after two weeks I decided to focus my efforts and started going every other day, so six sessions overall. It was quite helpful that many of the locals were trying it as well so I had pads and beta ready at the boulder. I was originally trying the dyno beta, but one of the days I was there only the pod hold was wet so I had to try the other betas. The lock-off felt easier to me and was similar to the crux of Dominator in Yosemite so I had some idea how to do it.

Also, I'm not sure if it is a difference between the Font and Hueco rating systems, but, at least in the upper grades, the climbs I've tried seem to be a bit spongier (softer). Dreamtime is known for being on the lower end of 8C, but Casavino is not yet known for being soft and I sent right after Dreamtime in only an hour between two sessions.