16 February 2022

Jorge Diaz-Rullo: Do not obsess over goals

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has been one of the best climbers in the world since 2019 and in total, the 22-year-old has done 47 routes 9a and harder including eight 9b's. Currently, he is #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra. Even so, on Insta he says that he clearly feels in his best shape ever, after doing the FA of Ursus sit (9a) really quick. Interestingly, he is 170 cm tall and his ape-index is +12 cm.

Can you tell us a little bit about your climbing life?
Normally I live in my van. I chose one place to stay every season and I like a change of climbing areas and styles. This winter I have stayed in Siurana followed by Margalef. I have so many projects here. Sometimes when it is bad conditions for a lot of days I go to my home, in Madrid with my family. Since I have a car being 19-years-old I have been living like this.

What does a normal climbing week look like?
Normally I climb for three days and I rest one day. Usually, I climb with friends but if I don't find anyone I boulder or train. On my rest days, I like belaying friends also and staying relaxed in the mountains.

What are your plans for this spring and for the summer?
Margalef and Siurana until March. For the summer, I am not sure for now I will decide when the moment arrives.

How can you explain being in such good shape?
I have trained so much in Madrid for 1.5 months. Normally I don't train so much like this. Now in the rock and I feel better than ever. But I need to climb more volume and soon I will go for some big projects.

Do you have any specific goals as you are peaking?
Yes, some routes. But not goals about grade only routes that I dream to send.

Which are your Top-5 hard routes?
Planta de Shiva, Realization, First round first minute, El Bon Combat and Patanics.

Any advice to youngsters planning a road trip this spring?
I think is important if you travel outside don't be only obsessed with the goals. I think is very important to enjoy and climb a lot of routes/boulders if you are in another country and different style. Especially if is your first travels to one crag.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo does three routes 9a and beyond in one week
Jorge Diaz-Rullo has had a busy week doing three 9a's and harder link-ups, out of which two were first ascents. In Santa Linya he did Direct into your Fabelita โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo sends Ciudad de dios (9a) and spend his day #131 on his big project in Margalef, besides training hard.
Jorge Diaz-Rullo has been one of the very best climbers in the world for the last five years. Here are some laboratory tests that try to explain his strengths.