16 February 2022

Jorge Diaz-Rullo: Do not obsess over goals

Jorge diaz-rullo has been one of the best climbers in the world since 2019 and in total, the 22-year-old has done 47 routes 9a and harder including eight 9b's. Currently, he is #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra. Even so, on Insta he says that he clearly feels in his best shape ever, after doing the FA of Ursus sit (9a) really quick. Interestingly, he is 170 cm tall and his ape-index is +12 cm.

Can you tell us a little bit about your climbing life?
Normally I live in my van. I chose one place to stay every season and I like a change of climbing areas and styles. This winter I have stayed in Siurana followed by Margalef. I have so many projects here. Sometimes when it is bad conditions for a lot of days I go to my home, in Madrid with my family. Since I have a car being 19-years-old I have been living like this.

What does a normal climbing week look like?
Normally I climb for three days and I rest one day. Usually, I climb with friends but if I don't find anyone I boulder or train. On my rest days, I like belaying friends also and staying relaxed in the mountains.

What are your plans for this spring and for the summer?
Margalef and Siurana until March. For the summer, I am not sure for now I will decide when the moment arrives.

How can you explain being in such good shape?
I have trained so much in Madrid for 1.5 months. Normally I don't train so much like this. Now in the rock and I feel better than ever. But I need to climb more volume and soon I will go for some big projects.

Do you have any specific goals as you are peaking?
Yes, some routes. But not goals about grade only routes that I dream to send.

Which are your Top-5 hard routes?
Planta de Shiva, Realization, First round first minute, El Bon Combat and Patanics.

Any advice to youngsters planning a road trip this spring?
I think is important if you travel outside don't be only obsessed with the goals. I think is very important to enjoy and climb a lot of routes/boulders if you are in another country and different style. Especially if is your first travels to one crag.
2 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Related

Jorge Diaz-Rullo did Chris Sharma's El Bon Combat (9b) in in 2020. It took him 32 days and for almost two months he lived in the area alone in his van. "It has cost me so much, it's my antistyle and the conditions did not help at all... It was truly, very difficult for me! So long story short, what…

Brooklyn 9b FA by Loic Zehani

Loic Zehani has done the FA of Brooklyn in Orgon. In total, the 21-year-old has now done over 60 routes 9a and harder. ”Crazy send. A new route, bolted by my fa…

Tiger Cat 8c flash by Jorge Diaz-Rullo

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has been in Australia since mid September and has logged four 8c+ routes including one he upgraded and one he downgraded, each of which were To…