NEWS

"Triple double" incl. 8A (+) flash by Allison Vest
Allison Vest has set a new standard by, in a day, flashing Diaphnous Sea 8A (+) and Loaded With Power (7C+) as well as doing . (c) Alex Johnson

"A super good day out in Hueco. My first triple-double day. Was cool to try hard on some flash attempts.
I watched a lot of videos of diaphanous and knew it was my style. I had also been told it would be a good one to try to flash. I warmed up for a bit and was nervous to pull on and try but, AJ told me to just do it and that was the push I needed!"


Interestingly, during the last four months the 26-year-old has done ten boulders 8A+ to 8B+, which can be compared with a total of five previously. The reasons for this great progress are that she has stopped focusing on comps, and that leg injuries in early 2021 made her train lots of lock-offs and hangboarding. On Insta she has just published her 8B+ send.

How did you prepare for the flashes?
I watched a lot of videos of Diaphanous and knew it was my style. I had also been told it would be a good one to try to flash. I warmed up for a bit and was nervous to pull on and try but, AJ told me to just do it and that was the push I needed! Weโ€™ve been here for two weeks but I only now feel like Iโ€™m really getting used to the climbing.

How long do you plan to stay in Hueco and what is next?
I think Iโ€™m done climbing this trip. Only a couple of days left and Iโ€™ve got some body tweaks that are making me nervous. Might play around a little on the last day but mostly support crew for AJ!

IFSC informs that the Boulder World Cup in Moscow 1-3/4 is suspended. This means that the Boulder World Cup in 2022 will start with the event in Meiringen in Switzerland 8-10/4.

"IFSC President Marco Scolaris held several meetings today. During his discussion with the Ukrainian Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UMF), he expressed the solidarity of the IFSC and the entire Climbing community with the people of Ukraine during this unprecedented crisis. President Scolaris added that he hoped the conflict in the Ukraine would end quickly and peacefully without any further violence.

The IFSC intends to relocate the event to another location, with an announcement to follow once a new host has been selected."

Medow Lark Lemon 8B and Hungry Hungry Hippos 8A+ by Alex Puccio
Alex Puccio reports on Insta that she has done Medow Lark Lemon 8B and Hungry Hungry Hippos 8A+ in Red Rocks. (c) Robin O'Leary

The 32-year-old has been the best female outdoor boulderer during the last 15 years, in spite of having had several bad injuries and also competing actively. She won her first World Cup in 2009 and her most recent in 2018 just before she stopped competing. In 2014, she got the silver in the World Championship.

How are you recovering from your last shoulder injury?
Injury is doing a lot better. Itโ€™s not 100% yet, my muscles around the SC Joint get quite sore and fatigue quicker which I have to watch out for as it then makes my shoulder more vulnerable. Outside climbing is definitely easier on it since a lot of the moves are more static and also you can rely on more technique. :)

What are your 2022 plans?
Iโ€™m psyched to start training this next month and in April- May we are planning a trip to Europe. We want to go to Magic Wood, but probably some other places as well around Europe. :)

Two 8A's by Vroni GaรŸner
Vroni GaรŸner has done The Pianist (8A) in Val Calanca and The Arete with the Pocket (8A) in Chironico. "I was pretty surprised by taking down, The arete with the pocket, an old project of mine, and, The Pianist in only one session each during this trip. Happy about seeing progress!"

How can you explain this peak performance and how much do you train?
I didn't do any specific training. Just continuous bouldering on a 45-degree wall and outdoors. :) Normally, I train two days a week in the gym. At weekends, I usually try to climb outside for two days, depending on the weather and time I have.

IFSC has started to announce who will participate in the World Games. Based on the quotas it seemed that Tomoa Narasaki was going to miss it based on that Japan would fill its country quota as Haruki Uemura won the Youth A in the Lead Youth World Championship. Now, it has been confirmed that Narasaki will participate in Lead, meaning that Japan has withdrawn Uemura from the event.

IFSC has also confirmed that Mejdi Schalk from France will participate which means that probably Adam Ondra (or Sean Bailay) has withdrawn from the World Games.

Stefano Ghisolfi has done L'Arenauta in , which was bolted 20 years ago. His mini-documentary gives you all the details. "The first part, the less overhanging, is 7a to the first chain. From there starts the roof part, around 20m almost horizontal roof. The first section of the roof is not super hard, around 8b+, and then there is a bad kneebar and from there starts the real challenge. A hard section on pockets with very bad feet, some ten intense moves. The line does not cross any other route, it is one of the purest and most logical ones, straight in the middle of the roof. The place is amazing, close to the beach."

Marcel Remy leads 4c on his 99th birthday
Marcel Remy was born in 1923 and has been climbing actively during the last 90 years. He celebrated his 99th birthday by climbing in his local gym in Villeneuve in Switzerland, leading a 16 m tall 4c after some regular warming up. (c) Hannes Teil for Mammut

The first time, out of seven times, Marcel has made it to the 8a headlines was in 2015 when he did a 5c in Leonidio. Two years later at 96, he did a 12 pitches 5b+ and then took a paragliding tandem down. Later this year, a short documentary about Marcel's climbing life will be released.

Power of Landjager 8A by Alex Johnson and Allison Vest
Alex Johnson and Allison Vest have done Power of Landjager (8A) in Hueco Tanks (TX). (Alex)"Hueco is harder than I remember. It felt really good to top something out. I remember trying this boulder a decade ago and it felt hard. It was nice to return as a stronger and better climber and put it away. Few more days left, hope the tops yield!" (c) Allison Vest